MVP22

iTrader: (2)

Very true

Lonestar

iTrader: (14)

Type-S for the T4'18, BD8

Seriously, folks... the latest bodies are truly worth a couple of tenths of second vs. 10yrs ago.... yes one can still run an Andy's Stratus, the car still turns left and right when you turn the radio wheel, but any of the modern (granted, ugly) blobs makes a world of difference...

Bittydesign

This weekend at the big international GP3F race in France the Eptron debut has been "wow", driver Tim Benson took the TQ (yes it's an Eptron, Tim puts on different lights and grills sticker) and 2nd place overall! We also lost counting of how many drivers have written to us in the past months (during private test before the release) telling us they've improved their lap times and their race pace over 5 minutes. Eptron is a winning project, when after a few laps you improve your performance there is no more to say, the track says it all.

Khoff77

iTrader: (4)

What is the weight of the light eptron?

Bittydesign

The "Light weight" body ready to go (decals, 3-4 colors, wing hardware) is 78-79gr, the "ULT" (ultra lite) is around 67gr.

rcfiend

iTrader: (42)

Really loving this thread. I'm getting back into racing 21.5 TC on carpet. Quick question on prepping bodies. How do you guys determine best height for the body? I've seen some slam the body and have a resting height of 8-9mm. Also, I notice when I mark the holes for my body, after making holes in the front, the rear is of by a few mm. Should I mark the holes, ream the front and then mark the holes for the rear? Appreciate the help everyone!

DesertRat

iTrader: (2)

One good way is to rough-cut the bottom of the body, mount it on the chassis, set the chassis either flat on a setup plate or on setup blocks, and then take a sharpie marker set flat on the table so that the felt tip is at a steady height and mark all around the body so it has a mark of consistent height. For the mounted height, just barely not dragging is just fine. Depending on how much body roll you have you may need to experiment with the height to find the best compromise.

I've had the same issue with cutting body holes and having them line up when you're done, as the body being at an angle will cause the holes to wander. The best option I have found for getting the holes just right has been to set the body on the body posts without the holes cut (the body mount posts need to be the correct height) mark the post hole locations with a sharpie, and then load my dremel carving bit in my dremel tool, turn it up to full chooch, and stab it into the body post location. The problem with hand reaming is that it tends to wander, while the dremel tool holds its center better.

Picture of the correct tool:

JeffC

iTrader: (5)

A few questions to help answer more specifically...
Vertical or horizontal rear body posts?
Do you have a front body travel limiter (screws from front upper arms to limit body travel)

Ultimately, you want the body centered left-right and pointed straight ahead. The front as low as possible without the hood touching the front tires at max roll (inside fully compressed, outside full droop), and the front splitter needs about 10mm clearance (for carpet). Initially, don't add any rake angle to the body... try to have the lower cut line level. You can adjust rear body height later to add/remove rake.

rcfiend

iTrader: (42)

Thanks for the suggestions Jeff! As for your questions, I do have front body travel limiters. Currently I'm using vertical body post, but my next body will be horizontal.

rcfiend

iTrader: (42)

[QUOTE=DesertRat;16046022]One good way is to rough-cut the bottom of the body, mount it on the chassis, set the chassis either flat on a setup plate or on setup blocks, and then take a sharpie marker set flat on the table so that the felt tip is at a steady height and mark all around the body so it has a mark of consistent height. For the mounted height, just barely not dragging is just fine. Depending on how much body roll you have you may need to experiment with the height to find the best compromise.

I've had the same issue with cutting body holes and having them line up when you're done, as the body being at an angle will cause the holes to wander. The best option I have found for getting the holes just right has been to set the body on the body posts without the holes cut (the body mount posts need to be the correct height) mark the post hole locations with a sharpie, and then load my dremel carving bit in my dremel tool, turn it up to full chooch, and stab it into the body post location. The problem with hand reaming is that it tends to wander, while the dremel tool holds its center better.

Picture of the correct tool:

[/QUOTE
Thanks for the recommendations, between your suggestions and Jeff's I'm in a good spot to setup my next body!

malkiy

iTrader: (10)

https://www.rcmaker.com.au/collectio...ounts-w-screws

Get this and never have to worry about drilling rear body holes in the wrong location. Only problem is you would need several adapters to cover all the different body sizes. I believe teameamotorsports sells rcmaker stuff.

rcfiend

iTrader: (42)

I saw those the other day. Thanks. Has anyone here used them before?

malkiy

iTrader: (10)

I’m using them. Not going back to normal holes in bodies. I always get nervous when mounting a new body. Only having to worry about the front two makes it a lot easier. Plus the mounts allow you to adjust up or down.

rcfiend

iTrader: (42)

Thanks Malkiy, have you ever had one fall off or break on track?

malkiy

iTrader: (10)

Have run them for about a half year. No issues falling off or breaking. Maybe if someone rear ended you in mod while you were stopped on the straight? I don't see them getting damaged unless it's an accident that will most likely break lots of other things on your car.