Marcos.J

iTrader: (239)

if i recall i remember krazedbuilds making a floating
steering mount for the MI7

Robbob

iTrader: (8)

It worked great too

jag88

iTrader: (1)

I bought a Mi8 Alum. off of RC Tech For Sale Forum. I disassembled it down to the last screw. Put it back together and was looking for a starting setup. I run 21.5 TC, black carpet.
I ran across a James Reilly setup he posted here last year. I put it on the car and it was MONEY!!! He also said the car was a great kit to have but I couldn't find one so I bought one used.
Anyways, Thanks James!!!
(BarryZ)

Marcos.J

iTrader: (239)

Robbob has some good black carpet set ups i think he posted one a few pages back

jag88

iTrader: (1)

Thanks !!!

JamesReilly

iTrader: (59)

You're welcome Barry, anytime.

scott.langford

iTrader: (3)

Has anyone made a solid aluminum chassis plate for the HGT yet? Looking to get this going on black carpet by the 25th of this month for mod.

Marcos.J

iTrader: (239)

i believe Krazedbuilds is working on it

scott.langford

iTrader: (3)

ok I’ll shoot him an email. I was hoping he was working on something for that

Isaac

iTrader: (5)

They are not working on it, they have one.

https://www.krazedbuilds.com/shop/sc...-alloy-chassis

Robbob

iTrader: (8)

Thats for the stock Mi8

But they do have the file done and will have them coming out by next week for the HGT.

JamesReilly

iTrader: (59)

Do you know if it will be a med-bite type chassis?

Robbob

iTrader: (8)

High bite solid with their center flex design like their other chassis.
Ive seen the simulation numbers between some concepts and there isnt enough of a gain over stock.
The suspension geometry changes will/should generate more then enough traction that a stiffer chassis would work better.

Im sure if the demand is there for a low/med bite pocket chassis then they may run a few off.
The big push is on the high bite right now from drivers so those are coming first.

epine

Hey all,


Just wondering what some think on the order of importance for dialing in a touring car from a fresh kit build. I recently learned the importance of weight balance front to rear when I had the back end slide out on me. 51% or so up front fixed it right away. This leads me to wonder what other major items should come before tweaking "lesser" tuning items. I know everyone will have a different order of importance, but I would love to see if there is any consensus at all on this.


So far, here is my NOVICE list off the top of my head. Add to it, mix it up, whatever YOU think :


*Major items - most important first*

Tires/gluing/additives

Factory options for racing surface

Gearing (avoiding over temp)

Ride Height then Droop

Shock Oil

Springs

Weight distribution

Roll Center (shims)

Radio + ESC Settings (steering travel / expo / drag brake etc)


*Moderate or fine tuning - most important first*

Toe

Camber

Sway Bars

Shock Angle / Pistons

Caster

Track Width


*Lesser tuning options - maybe no order here?*

Bump Steer

Ackerman

Anti-squat/dive etc



Looking forward to your thoughts!

scott.langford

iTrader: (3)

As a newer driver, I've found this to be a great way to approach setting up my Mi8 over the last year and a half. One of the challenges I experienced running the car on black carpet and sugar prepped asphalt, was the lack of setup support and general information on what chassis components to run as a baseline for these surfaces.

Not being able to have a baseline, I had to setup the car in this method. I would consider bumpsteer, Ackerman and Anti-Dive all as major tuning options though. Bumpsteer is often the difference in a car that is twitchy and on its nose, or one that has no steering at all. This is something I would keep around kit setting, adjusting accordingly. Rear castor can have a bigger affect than droop IMO, but that's only if the droop is in the right window. If you have more front droop than rear, then nothing else you change on the car will matter as you are adjusting things around a compromise. Droop adjustment is often "fine tuning" for me, especially once I have established a baseline. Im using fine droop adjustments to change how much high speed, vs low speed steering I have on the front depending on the grip that day.

For example,

My car on asphalt had zero side bite at kit setting. I tried several things, starting with giving the car more overall droop front and rear. The car didn't roll more, but it did transfer more weight front to rear on and off power. So I switched the droop back. Laying the shocks down, allowed the car to roll more. But it then felt lazy, and broke loose mid corner over bumps. High speed cornering was compromised, So I switched it back. After removing the 1mm shims from under the hubs, I realized this was why the car had no side bite. The revised roll center at the hubs gave the car side bite in the low speed sections, and in corner entry of the high speed sections. But the car now is washing out mid and exit corner, coming off track line forcing me to get off power earlier than I want. Standing up the shocks helped with mid corner bite, but compromised the low speed bump handling, and made it harder to place the car on slow and tight corners. A coupe fast guys at my track were removing the lower arm shims, lowering the roll center further. Once I tried this, the car gained a night and day amount of mid corner grip. While the car felt fast, I started to have trouble clipping corner apexes. The rear of the car now isn't rotating enough mid corner, it's stuck. So I changed the ARS shimming from 2mm to 3mm, to get the car to rotate more from the rear for less toe gain. This helped initially, but what I found is that the car became unstable over the bump in our sweeper after the straight. So I switched it back. This is when I learned how powerful the relationship between front and rear camber gain is, the inner link shimming. I added .5mm to the rear inner links, and that was it. As there is less rear camber gain, the car now rotates from the rear, letting me hold my mid corner and exit line without clipping the apex. The grip came up considerably once other nitro cars were racing that day, so I knew I could try lowering the shocks one position to free the car up. This started to give me the same issues as before, with the car breaking loose over bumps in the high speed sections, however the car behaved better in the other sections of the track. Limiting overall droop further, helped remove grip but it also made the car less stable over bumps and it limited my high speed steering. Going back to the inner link adjustments, I added 1mm front and rear (1mm front, 1.5mm rear total) and found this to free up my car in all sections of the track, while maintaining the same feel as before the grip came up. Its only at this point where I would start making fine adjustments to the droop, giving me more or less steering for specific corners.

Ive found that once the car is in this "baseline" state, I could start experimenting with different oils in the diff, and shocks. While these are major tuning options, I found that they didn't have as big of an affect on the overall stability and cornering of the car. Going up on my shock oil made the car easier to drive, but I wasnt a fan of the "laziness" of the steering, so I went back to baseline. Testing between 200-450 weigh shock oil, what I experienced was the car behaved the mostly the same in all sections of the corner, but with adjustments to my throttle input. Diff oil, also didn't make or break my setup. Going up from 5 to 6k however, made the car much more predictable which helped my consistency throughout the run, resulting in my fastest lap that day.

If I was limited to only three adjustments to the car, I would stick with the lower roll centers, inner link height and front steering lock. However, this is only if everything else on the car is right, like tires glued and prepped, a body that is mounted correctly, no binding in the suspension or drivetrain, no air in the shocks, and the car set up square.