old_dude

iTrader: (1)

When I fill I make sure to overfill and cycle the piston up and down until I don't see bubbles in the oil (totally clear). Then push the bladder into the recess making sure there is enough oil to push some out. Screw on the cap just a little and compress the shock fully. This should push out more oil. Then tighten the cap. You should have almost no rebound and a smooth shock. These are the easiest shocks I have ever built (other than those dam snap rings on the piston).

munchagepeopl

This definitely helped, and I think it (along with using the thick ceramic grease for the o-ring instead of my normal AE green stuff) may have solved it? I got one shock first time, but the other 3 took 3-4 tries each. And I still don't have the collars on, because the threads keep shredding my fingers when I try to screw them on. Shocks have been, by far, my least favourite part of the build..

TheBeave

iTrader: (6)

Typically, we let the shocks sit for a few minutes after we fill them with oil, before we put the caps on, this helps get rid of any air. I race with 0 rebound, so my process is to fill the shocks with my desired oil, cycle the piston up/down a handful of times, let all the air bubbles rise to the top, this is where I let them sit for 5 minutes or until clear. After that, find your bleed hole in the cap, put the cap on, screw it down a thread (not all the way), push the piston all the way in (this is where you set rebound, no rebound so the shock goes in all the way), hold the shock at a 45 degree angle with the bleed hole in the cap at the highest point and slowly turn the shock so that the excess oil bleeds out of the shock, hold the cap steady while you twist the body of the shock. If there's any air remaining, you'll see bubbles in the shock oil as it bleeds out of the bleed hole. Make sure to screw the shock in slowly, you should see any overfill running out of the hole, it is possible to screw the cap on too quick and trap excessive oil, leading to unintended rebound and inconsistent cornering.

Razathorn

iTrader: (2)

Honestly, I checked my cero shocks the first time since I built the car in december and they're still 100% air free, quiet, zero rebound. They shouldn't leak. I elected to not refill during my maintenance check. I could literally flip it upside down fully extended and there was zero play between piston and oil. There shouldn't be ANY issue building these to last. I'm religious about my shocks too as I run offroad, where the maintenance is super critical for those.

The way I build the shocks is to full extend down, put just enough oil to cover the piston well, then raise and lower the piston and wait a few moments for any air bubbles to come out of the minor amount of oil that is in there. Then I pour oil to near the top, compress the shock WITH A BOTTOM SPRING RETAINER ON, then roll the bladder in expelling oil and the bladder "sucks down" and doesn't come up. Then I put the upper plastic and cap on. Perfect, every time.

I hate to make it sound simple, but it really is. Once you get it, it's money.

Parinta

Hi guys

I plan to resume 1/10 touring and I'm looking at the chassis. Not wanting to take the Xray at 800€ I saw the 3racing Cero Ultre.

I would like to know if it is a good chassis and a good choice? Know the points that have been improved on the chassis to make it reliable. Know if options are to be taken either because they are essential or to have a better quality of life.

For the engine I don't know yet if I'm going with 13.5 or a 5.5, friends are all in 5.5 I can't see the real difference between the two.

I heard that if I go with a 5.5 whatever the chassis the transmission is changed very regularly.

I have heard good things about Teampower in motor and controller.

I also saw the SNRC R3 Pro so I'm really looking into its less well-known brands but interesting in terms of quality and price.

For the track it will be outdoors on asphalt.

Thanks in advance.

TheBeave

iTrader: (6)

If you're running mod, then start with the Ultra kit. You'll piece parts together here and there until you spend more than the Ultra kit would have cost. If your friends are all running a 5.5, then get a 5.5. If you get the 13.5 and they beat you, you'll spend the extra money and get a 5.5. Now you have a 13.5 that isn't being used.

HW and Motiv make really good Mod motors, that's what a lot of competitors use for world class competition. HW makes a top of the line ESC with a bluetooth programmer that makes tuning the ESC easy. I'm not saying TeamPowers motor/esc aren't good, I haven't used them but I have used the HW esc and programmer with great ease and success in the past and can't say anything bad about them. Their customer service is really good as well.

Marcos.J

iTrader: (239)

I have been racing mod with the cero sport for over 6 months now no issues except a stripped rear belt due to a rock in the rear diff the only upgrade from box stock is the krazedbuilds flex carbon chassis

Parinta

Indeed if I have to take one it will be an Ultra V2. I also heard about the SNRC C3 Pro. For me, the ultra is already super beautiful, hence the fact that I became interested in it. I saw on a Facebook group an upgrade to be made at the upper triangles. The plastic part can be made from aluminum for easier disassembly.

Otherwise, if the chassis is efficient and reliable, that’s great news!

woofenstein

Took my Ultra V2 to the track on Saturday for my first session. Love the car but having a tough time dialing out the oversteer, it rotates like crazy and gets loose mid-to-exit on corners on power.

Anybody else have this issue and tips on what you did about it? Only major thing I tried so far was softer rear springs, had a set of XRAY 2.3 linears sitting around and it didn't help much.

Ordered a roll bar set to see if that will fix it, as from I understand softer rear/stiffer front bars will help with that and is the first thing to try.

Thanks, help a dude out!

TheBeave

iTrader: (6)

Leave the rear swaybar as it is, if anything you'd want to go stiffer in the rear as well. A stiffer front sway bar will be a big change. By going stiffer in the front you'll take steering away. By going softer in the rear you will allow more weight to transfer to one individual wheel and that will also cause the car to oversteer as the other tire is having an effect similar to diffing out.

Razathorn

iTrader: (2)

What type of surface? Softer rear spring will actually hurt exit on power traction. First things first, make sure you're running 2mm of ARS washers because the 6mm called for in the book will give you TOE LOSS on power, where as 2mm will give you static toe-in in the rear. Set it to 2 to 2.5 per side (I run 2 deg toe in on black carpet).
If I were you, the very first thing I would do is make sure you have a "good book start". That means build the car like the book and ensure you're on a solid setup. Some things aren't mentioned in the book and I'll provide below. With this setup, your car should have plenty of grip on black carpet. I can't speak to asphalt, but it should be good there as well. I went from this base setup and did a few things to ADD rotation and steering on higher grip black carpet. Also, we need to know if this is TC, USGT, VTA... because the tire cleaning and prep is 90% of the entire way the car works, period. The setup is the last 5-10% that makes the .5 difference per lap. Serious.

Book setup with the following changes / specifics:
-2 camber all around
2deg rear toe in
2mm ars washers
1deg front toe out
5mm ride height front/rear
1.5mm droop over ride height front (5 + 1.5 = 6.5mm under chassis with front lifted)
2mm droop over ride height rear (5 + 2 = 7mm under chassis with rear lifted)
90% steering (if 100% is lock to lock, I run my total steering / dual rate at 90%)

The above with proper tire prep should be competitive right out of the box. I only had to make a few changes for a tight black carpet track to free the car up a bit:
1.2mm rear sway, +0.5 mm upper inside washer (lower rear rc, remove a tic of camber gain), 37.5 ae oil.
Don't do the above changes unless you're car is locked in and you want MORE steering!

First off, I always recommend running -35% expo on steering on TC on a small track. Really smooths out the tip of steering.

My method of attack would be to setup the car as outlined above, go to 70% steering as a test, and go drive it. If it is over steering, you probably have a tire prep issue. Sauce the tires, avoid the outside edges of the fronts. Let sit for 3-4 min, wipe WELL, and let sit for 5 minutes. Go drive again. Does it still spin around? Repeat with 50% sauce on front. If it still spins around, probably a setup issue or build issue. First setup thing to try is go to -1 front camber. I run -1.5 on USGT, and -2 on VTA. Your front camber and front sauce play together to set the stage for how much grip you have at the beginning and end of your run, not to mention if your tires "cone and go away" early.

My go to tweaks for oversteer is total steering (epa / dual rate) and tire sauce program.

Hope that helps.

Wayne

knightrider

iTrader: (3)

Is this for vta?

old_dude

iTrader: (1)

Yes.

DHooter

iTrader: (27)

What is every one using for replacement upper arm ball studs, I have broke 4 and bent 2 of the stock aluminum ones so far.

Razathorn

iTrader: (2)

I don't understand how this is possible without arms breaking or popping off.