92mnstanger

iTrader: (16)

Confirmed.

spring71

iTrader: (3)

3Racing Cero Sport just arrived at TQ RC Racing.
FYI, Thank you.
https://www.tqrcracing.com/shop/prod...?s_maker_id=56

jo_er86

iTrader: (11)

Does anyone know if the Sport lower arms have the v1 or v2 dimensions?

Raman

iTrader: (94)

The shocks on the Cera sport are composite or actual aluminium?

slappomatt

I haven't started on the shocks yet but I think they are plastic. already stripped out one of the rear upper arms trying to get the turnbuckle grub screw started and ended up over penetrating the ball cup breaking it in half. only place with them in stock is Hong Kong.


Damn looks like top fuel has the parts in stock. bummer.

Marcos.J

iTrader: (239)

https://racevta.com/store/index.php?route=common/home has parts also

Raman

iTrader: (94)

Use a 3 mm tap in the plastic first, will help avoid stripping

slappomatt

I dont have a 4mm reverse thread tap sadly.

92mnstanger

iTrader: (16)

Not sayin', just sayin'...I've built three Ceros (two Ace and one sport) and have yet to strip out one of these upper arms. I am absolutely nothing special so I don't understand how people are having issues. I wonder if there are a few different core pin sets they are using in their mold tooling creating some variability. Either way, it seems possible to get these together without issue.

old_dude

iTrader: (1)

When I built my Ultra I drilled out the ball cup hole a little bit before running the screw in. The holes are undersized for a 4mm by quite a bit. I did the same for the arm and tapped the arm. I have been running the car since November without a issue. Bw sure to use the included holder when threading into the ball cup. It makes things a lot easier.

Kevin Marcy

The issue is with the A-arm, not the ball cup (eyelet). The way I first tried to assemble it was screw the turnbuckle into the eyelet, then turn the whole thing to thread it into the arm. Since the hole in the arm was way tighter than the hole in the eyelet, it just screwed into the eyelet until it bottomed out and then broke the eyelet. Also, the arm appears to made of tougher stuff (carbon?) than the eyelet, so even drilling the arm out a bit larger didn't really help. Process I came up with is run a 4mm (right-hand) tap through the arm, screw the turnbuckle LH end into the eyelet until only 1 thread is left visible, then screw the RH end into the arm.

slappomatt

it was the last one I had an issue with. parts already came in. the super expensive fedex option from HK is worth it. order to door step like 3 days. car is all done sans shocks. I HATE building shocks. always have. lol

does anyone have a setup sheet for asphalt parking lot racing? TIA

old_dude

iTrader: (1)

The turnbuckle in the upper arms is 4mm.

old_dude

iTrader: (1)

These are the nicest I have ever built. New experience was just a few days ago while doing maintenance I removed them to change the oil. I wish I had taken a picture of the white paper towel I used to drain the shocks on. The oil was nearly as clean as the new stuff I put in. The kicker was this was after running the car since October. Yes that is a long time on shocks but really cool to see that you don't need to do that task as often as I once did.

Raman

iTrader: (94)

Use a 4 mm tap then 😉, as for the counter tap, maybe borrow one from NASA 🤦🏻

I don’t have one of these yet, I’ve been kicking the tyres before I pull the trigger.

My current asphalt car should be sold tomorrow. Seems my only available choice would be an Ultra Ace with Carbon chassis,