dameetz

Mines are the same and so do my friends’ 24. Some are worse than mine, to the extent of the steering knuckle touches the arm when turning. Looks like the bowing/warp pivoted at the downstop screws and this is making it harder to set the downstop accurately and it affects the caster too. I think due to the design of the arm with wide opening around the center to accommodate the shocks is making it soft and too flexi or maybe they are using different material than 23 which does not have this issue.

Having said this, how do you guys set your downstop on the 24? With or without the shocks attach to the arm? I m having different value when I set it initially without shocks attach then after attaching the shocks because of the arm is bowing/warp down due to it being press down by the shocks.

kn7671

iTrader: (16)

My bet is the arms actually have a tiny crack in them around the droop screw, sway bar ball, or the elbow. Use a bright light and while placing downward pressure on the steering block to flex the arm, look very closely for cracks.

Every time my droop has been wrong or different from a previous setting, there has always been a crack in the carbon atop the arm.

Lonestar

iTrader: (14)

I recall Hagberg saying they now measure it with the shocks attached.

Interesting about the warping.

Having said that, I just put in another day of practice with the car today, and with my average club racer driving skills, it's an absolut blast to drive... And surprisingly enough to drive consistently, which matters to me the most!

kn7671

iTrader: (16)

I would be surprised if they are warping. The arms in question that looked warped either have a crack is the carbon fiber inlay atop the arm, or the arm itself has a partial crack allowing the arm to distort, appearing warped. In my case, every arm on my cars that has appeared distorted, or had droop values incorrect, has always been the result of a damaged arm.

Panther6834

iTrader: (2)

For those starting/claiming the arms and/or inserts are 'wrapping', can you, please, provide photos? Also, instead of just a single photo, is better to have a few photos, showing the arms/inserts from multiple angles (helps to eliminate non-affecting possibilities).

moulip

Hi, I have an issue which I can't fix. I have a bearing on the left rear cvd which always wears out to the point where nothing left !
This is the 3rd time I'm changing it I can't figure out what the issue is.
please see the picture.

gigaplex

iTrader: (2)

That's not wear, the bearing has broken. The outer race and the balls are missing entirely.

Lonestar

iTrader: (14)

Yup, having said that, it's hard to explain how this can happen three times in a row...would the outdrive opening be a few hundredths too narrow, maybe?

moulip

Yes that's what I assume. I'm going to replace the diff outdrive

blueflagger

iTrader: (4)

​​​​​​or switch to the other side temporarily to see if that side fails

AMZ

iTrader: (6)

Possibly a very slightly bent dogbone?

moulip

You mean switch the 2 outdrives ?

moulip

I will check that.

blueflagger

iTrader: (4)

that, or just put the axle on the other side of the car.

Panther6834

iTrader: (2)

Time for troubleshooting. But, first, do you know, with 100% certainty, that it's always happening to the exact same bearing location? In other words, is the 'good' bearing the exact same bearing that was initially installed...or, is it possible that it's happened to both bearings on that CVD (ie. "one" of the two bearings keeps failing, but you are not 100% certain it's the EXACT same bearing location). The only way to be 100% certain would be to 'mark' the good bearing and/or that side of the CVD, as well as that same outdrive, insert that bearing into that exact same outdrive, and then run the vehicle until another bearing failure, and see if it's the same bearing. If so, then repeat the process, except insert that bearing into the opposite outdrive, and see if it's the same bearing (again), or if it's the opposite bearing.

Obviously, the above is part of the overall troubleshooting...albeit, a very time-consuming method. As pointed out by others, it could be a number of different things. For long-term troubleshooting, I would still recommend following the above directions. However, at the same time, you should also incorporate several short-term troubleshooting steps. Check to make certain the axle, itself, isn't bent...even the most minute bend can cause this. As someone else pointed out, measure the width of the opening in the outdrives (BOTH outdrives), doing so at multiple locations, and compare the measurements of each outdrive against each other (ex. the width could be the same on both outdrives at the "fully seated" position, but could be different closer to the outer edge of the outdrives. It is possible that the side "eating" your bearings has an outdrive that is 'pinched'. Considering the opening on the BB outdrives is wider than the opening on the standard outdrives, it's safe to assume they could/would bend more easily. Also, check the outdrives, themselves. It is equally possible that one of the outdrive shafts (the section that goes into the differential) is bent, which would cause the outside section of the outdrive to have a slight "wobble" when the diff is rotated. Next thing to check would be the 'pins' holding the bearings, as it's possible one of the 'pins' is bent. Again, even the most minute bend could cause the problem. Try swapping the left/right CVDs, and see if the problem continues (which it probably will), and whether it continues to happen on the same side, or the opposite side (if the 'same' side, then the problem is with the outdrive and/or diff...if opposite side, then it's something related to the CVD).

As I was finishing typing everything above, two other possibilities came to mind - the lower bulkhead, and the adjustment ball bearing hub. It's worth checking those, as well. I won't go into what, specifically, to check, as there are several things...all of which I'm sure you should be able to figure out. The points is, you will need to check EVERYTHING related to the rear driveline, step-by-step, to find the cause of the problem. You could find it very quickly, as it could be the first thing you check...or, it could take weeks, and be the last thing you check. Best of luck to you, and hope you find/fix the problem.