Yes, we run Hobbywing just stock 60A esc and a Hobbywing10bl60.

So if it's your first TC for club level racing then 60A will be just fine. Especially the hobbywing justock which I think is one of the most popular at my club and probably the best value for money ESC for racing. I've also had the ESC paired to high spec motors such as an SMC low rider and Reedy S plus in 17.5 with no noticeable issues

we arent too far off from each other. i agree the 6a method isnt helpful in dialing in power. where we differ is in whether it has any use at all. since adjusting on track or using the 6 amp method always includes a second process of watching heat on track and I can calculate the waste heat it generates at no load I think it has reasonable proof as a number that is a starting point for minimizing heat. not power. I dont practice the 6 amp method but if someone who uses it does the back half of the process on track they will be close enough for a racer. Maybe not for a guy who understand motors very well but it will get them close. if they called it a setup process for minimizing heat rather than developing power it would be more precise but 30 years of racing and habits are formed. but hitting the number with 10 or 20% is fine. its a quick setup thing that you refine on track so i dont get the obsession with being so damn precise with it,

So even those who acknowledge the shortfalls of the 6A method are defaulting to it to an extent?

Come on guys, are we all just lemmings?

2017 EP ON ROAD Nationals in Australia, I helped a few of the guys in 21.5, and the Team Powers Actinium V2 was the dominant motor in the A main (5 of 10) and they worked best at 38-40 deg endbell around 2.1A on the analyser

One guy did use 6A I think, but pretty sure his motor fried as well.

But hey, if it's on youtube it can't be wrong

Why are we going on about 6 amps for motors on a thread for esc . The guy asked about which esc is good for blinky let’s not fill this thread with extra stuff

also look at nick adams videos on esc just incase u go for a more expensive one show you which one to maybe avoid

and again I recommend hobbywing, nosram/lrp and tekin All had good power and brakes (on track)

I apologize. The concepts are connected though. if all 60 amps are turned into heat rather than power, 60 amps wont be enough. I suggest people start by doing what they are comfortable with and as they decide they need more focus on controlling heat and then on power. eventually you will be getting a great roi on your 60 amps.

I see peaks of 90 ish amps on a 21.5 but that is in microseconds. you can drive around that.

Yes its enough, and it does not affect your top speed. Fast guys tend to find the line that allows them to be on the throttle as early as possible and drive on edge. You might want to look at your batteries though. Old packs will suffer from huge voltage drop during load, which makes the faster guy seem cheating.

I've seen old long stack 17.5 motors pull 100A in blinky on track. These are spikes where the current draw is momentary. My short stack 21.5 is indistinguishable on track from that old long stack 17.5 My sample rate for data was 10hZ and the sensor was only rated for 100A so it is possible that a higher sample rate and a sensor with more headroom would show larger spikes. This was all with old stand alone telemetry stuff. My new esc's have data logging, but I haven't really messed with it. I've recently turned to the dark side and built my first dirt oval car. Maybe instead of the hand me down esc the sprint car needs the esc with telemetry so I can answer some questions.

As other have stated how you drive can minimize heat build up, but ultimately those who have an esc with a higher amp rating can comfortably drive harder and not have to worry about overheating something.

So 100 amp spike is fine the 60 amp hobbywing juststock is 60amps conti and 380amps peak so u have 280amps left
so unless it’s pulling more then 60amps around the complete track it’s fine
the just stock is a beasty little cheap esc only blown one from putting The leads the wrong way.
mine today was keeping up with the xr10pro g2 today no problems and no extra heat