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If you must water dip, use a slave motor to drive the new motor (run the slave backwards to drive the new motor in the correct direction). DO NOT lube or use comm drops on the new motor before water dipping. Run it at 4 volts (should pull about 5-6 amps) for 2 minutes and check- it should be pretty close. Only run it until the brushes are JUST straight up and down.
Then lube and use comm drops (we like VooDoo drops) and run at 7.2 volts for 6 to 8 minutes (directly, not with a slave motor). It should be somewhere around 13-13,500RPM @ 5 volts, or 19K + @ 7.2 volts. |
Are there any drawbacks or advantages to breaking in a motor at a lower voltage other than the extra time it takes?
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1 Attachment(s)
Is there a "normal" operating temp for silver cans? What is the redline temp?
We are running them in a "Bomber" class in Indy. I've got mine in a TC3 with an FDR of 6.0 (max allowed). Gangstar Body from Parma. |
180F is danger zone
160F is ideal but will kill the motor after 5-6 runs 140F is pretty good and the motor will live longer 120F is undergeared |
Originally Posted by Deaths-a-Bitch
(Post 8815761)
Has any one got a good way of running in these newer CS brushes,
I have been water dipping for age's but it would be lucky if its bed in 2mm of the tip of the brush. I have not been using any comm drops just lubing the bushes. |
Originally Posted by [[john]]
(Post 8565865)
Hi Guys!
My Red-Dot (Full Race) motor got knocked back by the scrutineers today - Their main concern besides the strength of the magnets was the 'CS' stamped onto the brushes - Is this normal in the Tamiya 540j's ? One on-looker suggested the motor had been bought un-assembled, worked and then sealed to look like a standard 540j. I'm more curious then disappointed as I still TQ'd with a standard silver-can from a Tamiya kit. :) TIA! |
Originally Posted by rccardr
(Post 8819152)
180F is danger zone
160F is ideal but will kill the motor after 5-6 runs 140F is pretty good and the motor will live longer 120F is undergeared Thanks mate |
Measured through the vent, at the comm. That's the hottest part of the motor. You can try through the endbell vents if the can vent holes are blocked, but it will be somewhat lower.
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I also measure at the comm.
In the case of mabuchi/Johnsons like you through the lare vent holes in the can. Thanks |
Can you use sewing machine oil to lube the silver can motor?
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3n1?
I have used it but it tends to get gooey and pick up alot of track crap. If you want an off the shelf oil,get some light weight Mobil 1. A qt. will last a lifetime.;) |
Originally Posted by j.d.roost
(Post 8954968)
3n1?
I have used it but it tends to get gooey and pick up alot of track crap. If you want an off the shelf oil,get some light weight Mobil 1. A qt. will last a lifetime.;) "Sewing Machine Oil" I might try Mobil 1 (any specific kind you would recommend?) |
Does anyone know of a website that explains what part is what on a silver can motor ?
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Originally Posted by Misiek
(Post 8958330)
"Sewing Machine Oil"
I might try Mobil 1 (any specific kind you would recommend?) |
Do a search on this thread and you'll find the results of testing we did in the Lab about various motor oils and why Mobil 1 5wt was the superior performer.
There used to be a page on the Mabuchi or Johnson web site showing an exploded view of a 540 motor. Not sure it's still up there, but worth the search. |
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