Cepted

iTrader: (3)

Is this chassis comparable "Competitively" to a 2015 T4? I keep seeing people talking about how the X1Q0 is alot better than this, since it is the "competitive" chassis and this being the "club racer", Was wondering how well it was compared to something like a 5 yearold T4

gigaplex

iTrader: (2)

On outdoor asphalt, I can keep up with Xray T4 '20 models with my XQ1S. I can't comment for carpet tracks that usually require stiffer chassis plates.

I've also got the XQ10 and it's definitely a nicer car, but my lap times aren't really any different between the two cars in the stock classes.

r_lud

Its a very competitive car Which share it’s main parts with the full fat xq1 , I like mine it’s works really well not as quick as my xq10 unless it’s a wet day then can beat most no matter price tag
if using indoors on black Carpet u need alloy chassis as it seem a must for any car but u have to upgrade to xq1 motor mount if u did that

Cepted

iTrader: (3)

Sweet, Thanks guys.
I'm asking because I currently run a '15 T4, and I've been eyeing this chassis for a while now, not sure if it's even worth it since I already have my T4.
Plus parts for these out in Canada is just a nightmare since the american dealer went out of business.

Woof6

iTrader: (35)

Hi folks. Finally got my xq1 s (pre built version was all that was available). Went thru and freed everything up. Having an issue with strqaight lines. Best way I can describe it is its like torque steer. tracks straight when checking, but on power wanders one way or the other. Been told it may be the crappy servo I have in it. good #'s but just a cheapy. On a really tight budget, but springing for a new one this week. Team Powers low profile HV I think it is. Have had one of our top drivers drive the car, and altho he made it look much better, could see there was a prob. Any help would be appreciated.

Woof6

iTrader: (35)

sorry, running on low/med traction asphalt

Scostin

check for any binding as well. Pull belts off and see how free car is. Should be smooth all the way around also servo could be but anything too tight could cause as well

Woof6

iTrader: (35)

thanks. everything seems to be nice and free, but with 2 weeks til next race going to do a full teardown.

TeamThibault

how do you guys find the diffs? do they leak, do they need to be up dated? any seals need to be changed?

r_lud

Diff are fine close copy to X-ray no leaks or parts really don’t need to be changed had a few Ppl replace out drive seals with X-ray ones as Xpress o-rings are slightly tighter ( I think )

gigaplex

iTrader: (2)

Mine have been flawless. The XQ10 brought out some new X rings instead of o rings which aren't as tight in case you want to play with the seals, but the stock ones still work fine.

JJ100179

Recently I bought some 64dp 90 teeth spur gears from different manufacturers, just to see which ones are a straight fit.
Axon DTS and Panaracer spurs went straight on, Arrowmax, Tamiya and Xenon are too thick.
Result: you need a spur gear with thickness of max. 2.5mm in its center area.

gigaplex

iTrader: (2)

Odd, Arrowmax fits on mine.

Woof6

iTrader: (35)

New question for the group. will the xq1 steel double universals(10166) fit the xq1 s? I understand just one bearing needs to be changed to a 5x10x3. or will I need the spring steel universal? Are they the same just different material? BTW savox 1258 tg fixed my wandering prob. car is getting awesome

r_lud

yes with all the Xpress Xq1/10 double jointed driveshafts you need the thinner bearing on the inside of the hub
nearly every tc but one or two have the 5x10x3 bearing
the difference is ones stronger the black ones are ok but new ones are very strong (why they are fitted to ft1 fwd as takes all the load)