VBC Ghost18
#76
Tech Fanatic
#78
The diff is leaking and the shocks get air in them very easily no matter how perfectly air free they are when built. Has anyone had these issues?
The diff seems to leak passed the large o-ring onto the gear teeth, maybe a thicker o-ring as the white one doesn't look like it is enough to create a seal. The shocks seem to have a lot of play or wobble in the shafts. Could it be this letting air in?
The diff seems to leak passed the large o-ring onto the gear teeth, maybe a thicker o-ring as the white one doesn't look like it is enough to create a seal. The shocks seem to have a lot of play or wobble in the shafts. Could it be this letting air in?
#79
Tech Elite
Thread Starter
I've built a lot of VBC diffs. Once I had defective gasket but no leaks otherwise. The progressive shocks have taper bored cylinders so the pistons have some wiggle especially at full extension.
#80
Tech Master
iTrader: (1)
The diff is leaking and the shocks get air in them very easily no matter how perfectly air free they are when built. Has anyone had these issues?
The diff seems to leak passed the large o-ring onto the gear teeth, maybe a thicker o-ring as the white one doesn't look like it is enough to create a seal. The shocks seem to have a lot of play or wobble in the shafts. Could it be this letting air in?
The diff seems to leak passed the large o-ring onto the gear teeth, maybe a thicker o-ring as the white one doesn't look like it is enough to create a seal. The shocks seem to have a lot of play or wobble in the shafts. Could it be this letting air in?
The shocks and diffs are not a new design. They are the same as on there latest car the D10. The diff is the same as the D05.
#81
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (2)
If the diff is over filled with oil during assembly, it is quite easy for the soft white outer oring to be deformed while the oil underpressure escapes during tightening.
I noticed some leaking on my first attempt, and that was the cause.
Subsequent rebuild being slightly sparing with the diff oil lead to success.
I noticed some leaking on my first attempt, and that was the cause.
Subsequent rebuild being slightly sparing with the diff oil lead to success.
Last edited by simple; 04-04-2018 at 02:41 PM.
#82
I've tried rebuilding with less oil in and see how that goes. It was more than a bit weeping out as it dripped onto the chassis and covered the rear belt?
Seemed fine after building and before the first run. Maybe the re-build will sort it.
As for the shocks not sure? It seems like air is getting in somewhere as they are silky smooth until you move the shocks quickly then you get the tell tale squeak of air. Same after a rebuild of those too.
Seemed fine after building and before the first run. Maybe the re-build will sort it.
As for the shocks not sure? It seems like air is getting in somewhere as they are silky smooth until you move the shocks quickly then you get the tell tale squeak of air. Same after a rebuild of those too.
#83
The diff is leaking and the shocks get air in them very easily no matter how perfectly air free they are when built. Has anyone had these issues?
The diff seems to leak passed the large o-ring onto the gear teeth, maybe a thicker o-ring as the white one doesn't look like it is enough to create a seal. The shocks seem to have a lot of play or wobble in the shafts. Could it be this letting air in?
The diff seems to leak passed the large o-ring onto the gear teeth, maybe a thicker o-ring as the white one doesn't look like it is enough to create a seal. The shocks seem to have a lot of play or wobble in the shafts. Could it be this letting air in?
#84
If you build your shocks and then move the shaft in and out several times, when you hear the squish noise, if you take the top cap off, is the the top of the bladder wet with oil? If it is, you could possibly have a pin hole in the bladder. I've had that happen with brand new bladders. Also check if there could be a tear in the bladder at the seam, this can be caused if the top of the shock body is sharp and you really crank down on the top cap.
Cheers
#85
Tech Master
iTrader: (1)
Here is my trick to build any bladder shock.
Fill with oil with the rod fully extended then slowly cycle the rod in and out. You will see air bubbles form. Let the shock set until the bubbles are gone. It helps to have a shock stand to do this as it takes a few minutes.
Make sure that the oil is up to the top of the body with the rod extended then put the bladder in place on the body. The bladder should force out a little oil.
Put the shock cap on a few turns and compress the shock. This will push out some more excess oil.
Tighten the cap full and clean up the mess. If you do this right you will have a little rebound and a smooth air free shock.
If you have too much rebound loosen the cap and force out a little oil.
If you don't have any you will need to remove the cap, add some oil and repeat the bleed.
Good luck, there is a definite feel to this technique but with time you will build perfect shocks.
Fill with oil with the rod fully extended then slowly cycle the rod in and out. You will see air bubbles form. Let the shock set until the bubbles are gone. It helps to have a shock stand to do this as it takes a few minutes.
Make sure that the oil is up to the top of the body with the rod extended then put the bladder in place on the body. The bladder should force out a little oil.
Put the shock cap on a few turns and compress the shock. This will push out some more excess oil.
Tighten the cap full and clean up the mess. If you do this right you will have a little rebound and a smooth air free shock.
If you have too much rebound loosen the cap and force out a little oil.
If you don't have any you will need to remove the cap, add some oil and repeat the bleed.
Good luck, there is a definite feel to this technique but with time you will build perfect shocks.
#86
Here is my trick to build any bladder shock.
Fill with oil with the rod fully extended then slowly cycle the rod in and out. You will see air bubbles form. Let the shock set until the bubbles are gone. It helps to have a shock stand to do this as it takes a few minutes.
Make sure that the oil is up to the top of the body with the rod extended then put the bladder in place on the body. The bladder should force out a little oil.
Put the shock cap on a few turns and compress the shock. This will push out some more excess oil.
Tighten the cap full and clean up the mess. If you do this right you will have a little rebound and a smooth air free shock.
If you have too much rebound loosen the cap and force out a little oil.
If you don't have any you will need to remove the cap, add some oil and repeat the bleed.
Good luck, there is a definite feel to this technique but with time you will build perfect shocks.
Fill with oil with the rod fully extended then slowly cycle the rod in and out. You will see air bubbles form. Let the shock set until the bubbles are gone. It helps to have a shock stand to do this as it takes a few minutes.
Make sure that the oil is up to the top of the body with the rod extended then put the bladder in place on the body. The bladder should force out a little oil.
Put the shock cap on a few turns and compress the shock. This will push out some more excess oil.
Tighten the cap full and clean up the mess. If you do this right you will have a little rebound and a smooth air free shock.
If you have too much rebound loosen the cap and force out a little oil.
If you don't have any you will need to remove the cap, add some oil and repeat the bleed.
Good luck, there is a definite feel to this technique but with time you will build perfect shocks.
They build fine with no air and are super smooth whilst moving the piston slowly and not pushing it all the way in. Once the piston is pushed in all the way or moved quickly you hear/feel a squeak and then you get the tell tale feel and sound of air in the shock.
It's almost as if the bladder compensates so far then the pressure causes the seal to fail and air gets in? Similar to Johnny Wishbone's description. I haven't checked yet if oil is on top of the bladder but it does feel like what he describes is happening.
#87
Once you know that this car is way older than you think, it explain some of their technical choices...
Red RC ? RC Car News » Tresrey HT-1 1/10th 4WD touring car kit
Red RC ? RC Car News » Tresrey HT-1 1/10th 4WD touring car kit
#88
Tech Elite
Thread Starter
Wow... I can't believe I didn't catch that. I remember looking at this Tresrey.
#89
It's still newer than my HB Cyclone Worlds Edition that is my current wet car
#90
Tech Master
iTrader: (1)
Great tips! I always build my shocks in a similar way but also use a shock pump to remove air bubbles and always build with as close to 0% rebound as possible. Of all the shocks I've built over the years Xray shocks seem to be the best and always build silky smooth with no air and no air gets in until after 10's of runs when i rebuild them and refresh the oil. I don't know if it is to do with the hole in the shock caps as shocks with no hole often seem to behave in the same way as the VBC shocks.
They build fine with no air and are super smooth whilst moving the piston slowly and not pushing it all the way in. Once the piston is pushed in all the way or moved quickly you hear/feel a squeak and then you get the tell tale feel and sound of air in the shock.
It's almost as if the bladder compensates so far then the pressure causes the seal to fail and air gets in? Similar to Johnny Wishbone's description. I haven't checked yet if oil is on top of the bladder but it does feel like what he describes is happening.
They build fine with no air and are super smooth whilst moving the piston slowly and not pushing it all the way in. Once the piston is pushed in all the way or moved quickly you hear/feel a squeak and then you get the tell tale feel and sound of air in the shock.
It's almost as if the bladder compensates so far then the pressure causes the seal to fail and air gets in? Similar to Johnny Wishbone's description. I haven't checked yet if oil is on top of the bladder but it does feel like what he describes is happening.