256LikesVBC Ghost18
04-16-2018, 09:42 AM
#106
We wouldn't get much racing if we didn't in the UK 
I used to race with electrics in a small tub but it killed weight distribution. This time I opted for stripping the motor receiver and ESC and spraying with PCB lacquer then filling the cases up with an insulating gel that sets. No electrical failures in 6 runs! I was very impressed. (obvioulsy not filling the motor with gel
and I only lacquered the timing board)
I used to race with electrics in a small tub but it killed weight distribution. This time I opted for stripping the motor receiver and ESC and spraying with PCB lacquer then filling the cases up with an insulating gel that sets. No electrical failures in 6 runs! I was very impressed. (obvioulsy not filling the motor with gel
and I only lacquered the timing board)
04-17-2018, 10:39 AM
#107
Deleted.
Last edited by JC3; 06-02-2018 at 06:46 PM.
04-17-2018, 10:43 AM
#108
Tech Rookie
We(s)t London! We'd have no racing if we didn't race in the rain :0) Are you doing the Stafford round of the brca?
I've just finished building my ghost 18, so really appreciate those setup tips.
There's a few bits I dislike about the car, but generally its good for the money.
Have you (or anyone?) found a better way of holding the battery in? I really hate using tape!
I've just finished building my ghost 18, so really appreciate those setup tips.
There's a few bits I dislike about the car, but generally its good for the money.
Have you (or anyone?) found a better way of holding the battery in? I really hate using tape!
04-17-2018, 03:20 PM
#109
I'm doing all but East Bourne this year as I'm loving my racing at the moment. I'm using tape at the moment for the battery but was thinking about maybe adding some posts and making a battery holder. If I do, I'll share on here if they work.
04-17-2018, 06:35 PM
#110
Deleted.
Last edited by JC3; 06-02-2018 at 06:46 PM.
04-18-2018, 03:53 AM
#111
Mine had a slight bow but I didn't notice it until after I attached the bulkheads. I loosened all the bottom screws and the top deck then re-tightened them and made sure everything was flat when on 2 setup blocks.
04-18-2018, 04:54 AM
#112
Deleted.
Last edited by JC3; 06-02-2018 at 06:47 PM.
04-18-2018, 06:51 AM
#113
VBC were great regarding my missing layshaft holder so may even send you a new chassis as it sounds worse than mine.
04-18-2018, 02:41 PM
#114
You could also use the battery retention setup for the D10, or if you like velcro, the Beamcat system is still available.
04-19-2018, 04:43 AM
#115
Deleted.
Last edited by JC3; 06-02-2018 at 06:47 PM.
04-19-2018, 07:13 PM
#116
Deleted.
Last edited by JC3; 06-02-2018 at 06:47 PM.
04-20-2018, 06:04 AM
#117
Tech Master
iTrader: (1)
That sucks. Having worked as a machine design engineer and putting together production lines, somethings like that just happen. That "O" ring is bought and not made by them I am sure. They would come in in bags of 100 at minimum. The probability of a bad one is fairly small but detecting it when doing final packaging is also difficult when it is done by hand. They just grab two from the bin and stick them in the bag. I was surprised that my parts count came out exactly right and was the right size (screw lengths) for every assembly. Probably your easiest solution is to order a diff "O" ring kit from your distributor. It has several of both sizes of "O" rings in the package.
04-20-2018, 06:20 AM
#118
That sucks. Having worked as a machine design engineer and putting together production lines, somethings like that just happen. That "O" ring is bought and not made by them I am sure. They would come in in bags of 100 at minimum. The probability of a bad one is fairly small but detecting it when doing final packaging is also difficult when it is done by hand. They just grab two from the bin and stick them in the bag. I was surprised that my parts count came out exactly right and was the right size (screw lengths) for every assembly. Probably your easiest solution is to order a diff "O" ring kit from your distributor. It has several of both sizes of "O" rings in the package.
04-20-2018, 07:43 AM
#119
Deleted.
Last edited by JC3; 06-02-2018 at 06:47 PM.
04-20-2018, 08:14 AM
#120
Thanks for the input guys. As of right now, both a replacement chassis and diff o-ring set are on the way. I initially wrote to VBC support and still have not had a reply. I then contacted the place that I bought the kit from, TQ Racing. They responded immediately and shipped the replacement parts the same day!
Please visit TQRacing.com they have the best shipping and customer support in the business for sure.
Started to put together the steering rack last night and the bearings weren't in the steering rack bag or the bearing bag. They were mixed up somewhere in the suspension parts bags. In that same bag were some ball nuts and we'll have to see where they go. lol The manual shows two different specs for setting the length of the steering links!
You have to use the thin style spur gears with this kit since the spur gear assembly uses c-clips on the drive shaft. The TC7.1 by contrast only uses the thicker spur gears, however you can shim the thin ones up and still use them.
IMO, using M3x6 screws to assemble the motor mount was a bad idea. I switched to longer screws that went a farther through the assembly. I did have to do a fair amount of sanding on the diff gears and axle to get them to spin freely. Hopefully I'll be able to get this thing together by May 6th in time for our asphalt season opener!
Please visit TQRacing.com they have the best shipping and customer support in the business for sure.
Started to put together the steering rack last night and the bearings weren't in the steering rack bag or the bearing bag. They were mixed up somewhere in the suspension parts bags. In that same bag were some ball nuts and we'll have to see where they go. lol The manual shows two different specs for setting the length of the steering links!
You have to use the thin style spur gears with this kit since the spur gear assembly uses c-clips on the drive shaft. The TC7.1 by contrast only uses the thicker spur gears, however you can shim the thin ones up and still use them.
IMO, using M3x6 screws to assemble the motor mount was a bad idea. I switched to longer screws that went a farther through the assembly. I did have to do a fair amount of sanding on the diff gears and axle to get them to spin freely. Hopefully I'll be able to get this thing together by May 6th in time for our asphalt season opener!