Yokomo MR-4 TC Thread
11-19-2001, 10:30 PM
#841
Will the front one ways still go out if you maintain them like cleaning and adding one way bearing oil?
11-20-2001, 09:23 AM
#843
Correct me if I'm wrong but other than normal use, the front one way will break if you hit something. It seems that the impact forcing the foam bumper to stop the front wheel at that moment and with the throttle applied will do some nasty stuff inside the bearing.
11-20-2001, 10:54 AM
#844
Hey Mo!
Sorry guys about this post being abit off topic but I figured this is where Mo looks.
Do you by any chance know anything about the new Yokomo site? Is it ready to be launched?
Do you by any chance know anything about the new Yokomo site? Is it ready to be launched?
11-20-2001, 11:40 AM
#845
Re: Hey Mo!
Originally posted by Yokomo Fan
Sorry guys about this post being abit off topic but I figured this is where Mo looks.
Do you by any chance know anything about the new Yokomo site? Is it ready to be launched?
Sorry guys about this post being abit off topic but I figured this is where Mo looks.
Do you by any chance know anything about the new Yokomo site? Is it ready to be launched?
11-20-2001, 11:41 AM
#846
Tech Initiate
VSPEC conversion
i currently race an MR4 TCR (as the name might suggest) and i am thinkin of upgrading the chassis with a VSPEC conversion. I have tried to find out about it online but cannot find anyhing as to the content. do any of you guys know what it includes? thanx for the help
11-20-2001, 12:33 PM
#847
Tech Adept
i've seen the v spec kit online on ebay before. if you get a vspec conversion, i should include an oneway, blue heatsink for the top of motor, and some other goodies.
11-20-2001, 01:13 PM
#848
Tech Adept
why do my arms for my yoke always break. i've heard yoke arms break easily. is this true?
11-20-2001, 02:06 PM
#849
TCRboy,
Kentech has a great Yokomo site to help you with the upgrades
http://www.yokomofinland.cjb.net
You can see all the different upgrade kits that Yokomo offers. His site also has great tips and setups.
Kentech has a great Yokomo site to help you with the upgrades
http://www.yokomofinland.cjb.net
You can see all the different upgrade kits that Yokomo offers. His site also has great tips and setups.
11-20-2001, 08:04 PM
#850
Originally posted by was ist los?
why do my arms for my yoke always break. i've heard yoke arms break easily. is this true?
why do my arms for my yoke always break. i've heard yoke arms break easily. is this true?
They won't break if you don't hit things. If you come into contact with anything at the speed a touring car can go, it's only normal for any car to suffer damage.
The more practice you do, the less you may hit things, the longer you can run without breaking stuff.
11-20-2001, 09:32 PM
#851
Originally posted by Simon K
A frequently asked question with a simple answer.
They won't break if you don't hit things. If you come into contact with anything at the speed a touring car can go, it's only normal for any car to suffer damage.
The more practice you do, the less you may hit things, the longer you can run without breaking stuff.
A frequently asked question with a simple answer.
They won't break if you don't hit things. If you come into contact with anything at the speed a touring car can go, it's only normal for any car to suffer damage.
The more practice you do, the less you may hit things, the longer you can run without breaking stuff.
There's no doubt the SP is tougher than the FTTC3. Maybe even the XXX-S too. Now that darn center oneway pulley is another story....
11-20-2001, 10:16 PM
#852
Originally posted by BigDogRacing
Now that darn center oneway pulley is another story....
Now that darn center oneway pulley is another story....
11-21-2001, 06:50 PM
#853
Daniz,
What gearing did you end up running? Are you racing for 4 minutes or 5?
Use a clip on motor heatsink on the MVP. I did and it never got out-of-control hot. I use the hardened gear adapter with the new belts. I wouldn't like to run the one that comes with the SP conversion too long...
BigDog,
I have broken more front arms since I started racing stock(2), than I ever did when I raced modified. Weird.
Also saw a lot of TC3's breaking arms at the weekend.
Fortunately I escaped unscathed, I had installed the Worlds graphite front arms after the local Yokomo rep ran out of the composite ones.
If I broke them, I was screwed, as the retailer wasn't coming out to the track until well after the second round of races each day(Hard night)....
What gearing did you end up running? Are you racing for 4 minutes or 5?
Use a clip on motor heatsink on the MVP. I did and it never got out-of-control hot. I use the hardened gear adapter with the new belts. I wouldn't like to run the one that comes with the SP conversion too long...
BigDog,
I have broken more front arms since I started racing stock(2), than I ever did when I raced modified. Weird.
Also saw a lot of TC3's breaking arms at the weekend.
Fortunately I escaped unscathed, I had installed the Worlds graphite front arms after the local Yokomo rep ran out of the composite ones.
If I broke them, I was screwed, as the retailer wasn't coming out to the track until well after the second round of races each day(Hard night)....
11-21-2001, 08:36 PM
#854
Originally posted by Simon K
Daniz,
What gearing did you end up running? Are you racing for 4 minutes or 5?
Daniz,
What gearing did you end up running? Are you racing for 4 minutes or 5?
11-21-2001, 08:40 PM
#855
I'm taking a sort of poll- please respond all Yok guys!
First of all, would you guys be interested in being able to have your front oneway diffs repaired when they $h!t a bearing? If so, would you be willing to pay to replace both oneway bearings since it would be kinda dumb to only do one? Lastly, keep in mind that the bearings will likely cost around $10 each at first until I can purchase in quantity to get the price down, so we are talking $20 in bearings, plus shipping, plus the 5x8 outboard bearings if you want those replaced too, so you're only talking about half what a new housing costs and that's not including the labor. I'm thinking around $30 plus shipping will do it all. Mayber we can get Yok to sell us some oneway bearings in the future for a better price to get the cost down.
Anyway, I'm having some parts machined at a machine shop, so I'll let you know if it works. Let's hope it does.
First of all, would you guys be interested in being able to have your front oneway diffs repaired when they $h!t a bearing? If so, would you be willing to pay to replace both oneway bearings since it would be kinda dumb to only do one? Lastly, keep in mind that the bearings will likely cost around $10 each at first until I can purchase in quantity to get the price down, so we are talking $20 in bearings, plus shipping, plus the 5x8 outboard bearings if you want those replaced too, so you're only talking about half what a new housing costs and that's not including the labor. I'm thinking around $30 plus shipping will do it all. Mayber we can get Yok to sell us some oneway bearings in the future for a better price to get the cost down.
Anyway, I'm having some parts machined at a machine shop, so I'll let you know if it works. Let's hope it does.