478LikesTLR 22 4.0
03-22-2017, 06:19 AM - Wikipost
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09-06-2017, 09:44 AM
#1306
1.4x3 front pistons: anyone using these. Was this thinking of keeping 1.7 2 hole rears. Thought was a little more of power steering. It retaining pack on hi speed driving and jumps. Would this take away a little rear traction on medium bite clay?
09-06-2017, 10:17 AM
#1307
Have you tried moving the front spindles forward or a stiffer rear spring before changing pistons?
09-06-2017, 10:54 AM
#1308
No, my thought was to gain a little more off power steering with the piston change without sacrificing rear grip with a stiffer spring....What I've done is I shimmed the rear hubs forward (1mm front 3mm rear). Gave a lot more rotation and grip, but am unsure if I'm losing corner speed, as I didn't get lap times called out that day. On a whim, also ended up moving shocks in on the front arm which gave a perfect amount of steering. But am thinking these may be bandaids. And may go back to even rear hub spacing and shock on the middle bottom hole inside with a piston change. Already went from a kyo gold to white front too which was much better (Yok green on rear). Running 3 trail and 1 Ackerman plate (3 Ackerman plate didn't have mid corner for me). Also played with going from 1mm to 1.5mm spacer on steering spindle which helps. Coming from a kyo hence steering bias. It's still way easier to drive like cheating. The starting setup was Jake Thayer stock nats
09-06-2017, 12:32 PM
#1309
No, my thought was to gain a little more off power steering with the piston change without sacrificing rear grip with a stiffer spring....What I've done is I shimmed the rear hubs forward (1mm front 3mm rear). Gave a lot more rotation and grip, but am unsure if I'm losing corner speed, as I didn't get lap times called out that day. On a whim, also ended up moving shocks in on the front arm which gave a perfect amount of steering. But am thinking these may be bandaids. And may go back to even rear hub spacing and shock on the middle bottom hole inside with a piston change. Already went from a kyo gold to white front too which was much better (Yok green on rear). Running 3 trail and 1 Ackerman plate (3 Ackerman plate didn't have mid corner for me). Also played with going from 1mm to 1.5mm spacer on steering spindle which helps. Coming from a kyo hence steering bias. It's still way easier to drive like cheating. The starting setup was Jake Thayer stock nats
09-06-2017, 12:38 PM
#1310
What size turnbuckle spanner does the 22 4.0 need?
09-06-2017, 09:15 PM
#1311
Tech Rookie
Hi all. Finished my build and am trying to set the rear ride height to 23mm, but I cannot seem to get it that low. I'm using the stock kit rear springs (white) and kit spring cups. The rear shock collars are backed all the way out, but I still need to lower the rear by 3-4mm. I think I've assembled everything correctly. What options do I have?
I'm going to run on a small, clay outdoor track that looks to be a low grip surface.
I'm going to run on a small, clay outdoor track that looks to be a low grip surface.
09-06-2017, 09:42 PM
#1312
09-06-2017, 10:26 PM
#1313
Maybe do a search on that online auction site for "tlr 22 axle." Came up with an older part number that may include the part you're looking for: TLR2973, one was under $8 with shipping. Although the idea of having spares is always appealing for a lot of us rc hoarder types.
I'd like to find the stock pieces in the original material. Kyosho crush tubes didn't fit, 2 b5m front aluminum ones were close....I don't want to have fab anything up. TLR needs to make the part available, if it's not already. I think their full line of off road cars uses the same part. I ended finding the complete axle/bone set on Amazon for $24.99 (probably the same ones somebody mentioned) which was a killer deal but a total waste. My local hobby stores don't carry anything useful. I'd have to drive an hour to find a shop that might have something that I could make work. I hope this was a fluke and I don't run into a similar problem again. I swore off TLR for at least 5 years and only recently they very slowly won me back over....this is not a good sign.
09-07-2017, 04:38 AM
#1314
09-07-2017, 05:47 AM
#1315
pm me your address i have some extras i can send you a couple
I'd like to find the stock pieces in the original material. Kyosho crush tubes didn't fit, 2 b5m front aluminum ones were close....I don't want to have fab anything up. TLR needs to make the part available, if it's not already. I think their full line of off road cars uses the same part. I ended finding the complete axle/bone set on Amazon for $24.99 (probably the same ones somebody mentioned) which was a killer deal but a total waste. My local hobby stores don't carry anything useful. I'd have to drive an hour to find a shop that might have something that I could make work. I hope this was a fluke and I don't run into a similar problem again. I swore off TLR for at least 5 years and only recently they very slowly won me back over....this is not a good sign.
09-07-2017, 05:47 AM
#1316
Tech Apprentice
Looks like the one we use:
http://visionracing.net/product/tlr-...ock-tower-5mm/
We sand and seal the edges with CA glue to prevent fracturing the carbon fiber.
http://visionracing.net/product/tlr-...ock-tower-5mm/
We sand and seal the edges with CA glue to prevent fracturing the carbon fiber.
09-07-2017, 10:05 AM
#1317
Tech Apprentice
Anyone trying the laydown 4.0 on an outside dirt track?
Any spur/pinion gear covers available for the laydown?
We are experimenting with it on a hard packed track with a med-loose surface were blockaid tires work best. So far we have started with two 4.0 buggies: one as a kit setup standup with the 30g anti-squat brass pivot and a full size shorty all the way back, the other as a kit setup laydown with the 50g brass weight under the tranny and the 27g anti-squat brass pivot and a slim shorty.
I started with the standup and my son (a much better driver than I) with the laydown. Then we switched. We both had the same conclusion:
Laydown was easier to drive. Seemed to have better traction around corners. The only problem is grit getting into the spur/pinion gears. We tried to protect it a little but wasn't good enough. Hopefully we can find or come up with a solution.
Any spur/pinion gear covers available for the laydown?
We are experimenting with it on a hard packed track with a med-loose surface were blockaid tires work best. So far we have started with two 4.0 buggies: one as a kit setup standup with the 30g anti-squat brass pivot and a full size shorty all the way back, the other as a kit setup laydown with the 50g brass weight under the tranny and the 27g anti-squat brass pivot and a slim shorty.
I started with the standup and my son (a much better driver than I) with the laydown. Then we switched. We both had the same conclusion:
Laydown was easier to drive. Seemed to have better traction around corners. The only problem is grit getting into the spur/pinion gears. We tried to protect it a little but wasn't good enough. Hopefully we can find or come up with a solution.
09-07-2017, 07:07 PM
#1318
edit: dremeled the brass down to th surface of the kick shim then removed the kick shim. Can't say this is very evenly done hope it works okay
I remember talking with another driver on Facebook group 22 empire. He said " I milled about .050 off the top portion of the bulkhead that keys into the chassis and removed the shim. Then I used a shim to move the bumper back out" I think his setup was geared toward running mod. So the buggy is heavier to get the extra needed grip
Last edited by JAE; 09-07-2017 at 08:27 PM.
09-08-2017, 08:16 AM
#1320
Tech Initiate
I have the stock Main gear on mine, should i change it ? and to what with what pinion ?
I run on carpet with slicks and 17.5 Motor on 2s.
Thanks
I run on carpet with slicks and 17.5 Motor on 2s.
Thanks