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Tekno RC EB410 Thread

05-13-2019, 06:33 AM - Wikipost

R/C Tech ForumsThread Wiki: Tekno RC EB410 Thread

Please read: This is a community-maintained wiki post containing the most important information from this thread. You may edit the Wiki once you have been a member for 90 days and have made 90 posts.

Last edit by: tobamiester

Welcome to the EB410 Wiki page.

Basic Stats/Features:

Shaft drive (tapered AL for light weight and straightness)
Gear differentials (all 3)
Low Angle CVAs (with captured pins so no ejecting them!)
Durable stub axles with 12mm hexes and optional offset adjustments
Reverse bellcrank steering system
Quick access bulkheads (for easy diff maintenance and tuning)
Spllt center diff holder (for easy diff maintenance and tuning)
8th scale style motor mount (for easy mesh adjustment)
13mm big bore shocks
3.5mm shock shafts
Droop screws

Videos

Servo Horns
Tekno included a plastic servo horn but also offers an aluminum one. This is highly recommended. Here's a list of servo horns that have been found to work:

Gearing:
Works out of the box for mod or 13.5.

Preference for Associated factory team pinions
Start mod gearing around 21t pinion
Start 13.5 gearing around 29t pinion with the stock spur (81tooth). If using a Tekin Spec R 13.5, start with a 24t pinion for medium sized indoor tracks.
Internal Gear Ratio: 2.5:1
For comparison:
B64 is 2.47:1
22-4 is 2.4:1
YZ4 is 2.6:1

Wheels

B6/22/rb6 wheels direct fit
22-4/XB4 front wheels direct fit
B64 front wheels will fit, but you need the +1 hexes (can use #TKR1654X, which is a +1mm hex)
22 2wd front wheels will also fit, possibly a good option for carpet.

Setup Sheets and other documentation
Setup sheets for all Tekno RC vehicles can be found here. Please be sure to try our recommended setup. It works very well on most tracks.

Ryan Lutz Setups
Instruction Manual
EB410 Resources
Ryan Lutz IOCC blog
PT Oil CST conversion Chart
List of Vehicle Setup Adjustments and Build Tips can be found here. There are several videos and articles detailing the building of shocks, diffs, camber links, etc.

Piston Drills:
Some of our setups recommend using pistons that are enlarged. For instance 4x1.9 or 3x2.0. To drill the pistons we recommend the following:

GMK Supply Piston Drill Set
16PC Metric Bit Set Metric Sizes 2.00 to 3.00 MM.
Harbor Freight 0.5mm - 3.0mm bit set * 2.1mm not included

Aftermarket Upgrades:

Warranty Policy:
Tekno RC is the only company in the industry that will give 50% off of parts if returned to them using the General Warranty return policy found on their website. The parts can be lightly used or completely abused, as long as the part is still being produced it's covered!

Build Tips:

When fastening the steering posts with a 5.5mm socket wrench, you can back space the socket with some nuts to help drive the post into the bulk head
Place an alcohol swab over metal threads and drive screws through the swab to clean both sides of threads before applying thread lock
Use a metallic marker to indicate what fluids you have filled in your diffs for easy identification
Apply thin layer of grease on crown gears to help hold gaskets in place for easy hole alignment
Bags F and H have 2 different size set screws, be sure to use the smaller 3x3mm screws for the hexes or you may run into problems installing wheels over the hex if you use the longer 3x4mm screws
To make is easier to slip the o-rings on the shock cap bleeder screws, apply a drop of shock oil and slip them over a 1.5mm hex bit, then line up the bit with the screw and transfer the o-ring over using fingernails or needle nose pliers
pinch+rotate shock caps in 17mm hex wrench to improve roundness
More shock build tips here
Use a 3.05mm drill bit or 3.05mm Kyosho arm reamer, 1/8" drill bits are not recommended because they are 3.17mm in diameter and tend to introduce too much slop, the pins are roughly 2.97mm in diameter
Replace the stock 3x14mm screws (TKR1405) with 3x20mm screws (TKR1409) in step H-10 in the manual in order to increase durability to the bulkhead.
When installing the front and rear differentials into the bulkheads be careful when tightening the 3x8mm screws of the cover that holds the diff in place. Bottom out the screws first (use a hand driver and make it hand tight) then check the diff to make sure it rotates smooth. If it binds up, start by backing out each screw 1/8-1/4 of a turn until the both front and rear diffs move freely. The plastic threads will keep the screws in place so don't worry if you think the screws are not secure.
When installing the steering hub kingpins (TKR6596), drive each one in hand tight only. Then check the movement of the steering hub. If it binds up, back out the kingpin screws by 1/8-1/4 of a turn until it moves freely. Then install the set screws (TKR1601) to hold it in place. Only drive the set screw in until you make contact with the kingpin. Do not force it.
If using the low profile servo mount, be sure to use smaller OD (outter diameter) washers to avoid rubbing on the center drive shaft. Protek ball stud washers are a good example of the acceptable diameter. You can chose to not run washers though it is recommended to use them as it makes for a more secure mount.
Ball Cup Alternative from AE: ASC91453. These are used as a harder composite option if you are not happy with the softer stock plastics. Note that these are approximately 2-3mm shorter and require compensation when building your kit to the manual specs to achieve proper camber/toe settings
Wheel Nut Alternative: Yokomo 4mm Thin Aluminum Serrated Flanged Nut

https://www.amainhobbies.com/yokomo-...-n4flt/p541494
Moving Rear Shocks to the Front of the A-arm

This is the break down of what's required by one of the Eb410 FB users.

Joey A.

So since there has been some people wondering about running the shocks in the front of the arm I though I would try explaining everything that I did to get them to work and why. My goal was to run as much stock stuff as possible with the least amount of modifications.

-Arms- need to be flipped and 1mm shaved off the back (spacing the arm farther back) running it this way the car is still a mm shorter then stock but more material could be removed for more adjustability but I have found no need to make the car longer.

-Inner ball stud- there are 2 ways of mounting, the first can be used with the stock plastic tower. All you need to do is use a 10mm ball stud instead of the lower shock mount screw and a little clearance from the shock tower and diff case. Using this method will work but the ball stud is moved lower and farther in then the stock locations which requires different pivot locations to try and correct roll centers. The other way (preferred) using the option carbon tower drill a hole higher and farther out if done properly you will be able to get the ball stud location in the correct hight(0mm) and between the two stock locations.

-Shocks- only 2 changes from stock you will need to space the top shock mount 2mm out. You will also need to run around 1.5-2mm less droop depending on your setup.

-Sway bar- this is the hardest part of the swap. This can be done a million ways I chose to print a mount in the stock ball stud location which allowed me to use the stock swaybars and arm mounting position. You can also bend your own bar and use the stock mounts on the back. You will have to drill your arms on the other side and closer to the pivot for this to work (remember you will need a thinner bar the closer you mount the lower pickup on the arm to get the same feeling as stock).

-Other- you will need to remove the drop screws on the rear arm. Depending on rear rims,hubs,ballcups and setup you might need to clearance the outer ball cup so it doesn’t rub on the wheel.

-Why- the benefits of running the shocks in the front are the ability to run a softer rear shock package without giving up corner speed and pack. The car will land without chassis slapping or packing out as easy allowing you to drive the car harder and it corners flatter and rotates faster without losing rear grip.

Sorry for the shity grammar,
TJR

Sway bar mount for forward mounted shocks: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Tekno-EB410...4AAOSwYNxahFkq

Exotek Sway Bar Mount http://www.exotekracing.com/eb410-re...ar-mount-6061/

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10-13-2017, 09:11 AM

#1531

ezlight

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Quote:

Originally Posted by AccessRacer

Does anybody know anyone that would want to build my car for me? I am a quadriplegic and love to drive my cars but I cannot build them or work on them. Thank you

Jeremy Mcguigan is a team driver, and does builds VERY affordable. Might want to reach out to him on FB.

10-13-2017, 09:37 AM

#1532

AntH3000

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Quote:

Originally Posted by 30Tooth

Using DG Designs and jmcelroy42 work (thank you both) a CG height assumption of 40mm (a 20mm ride height and half of the stuff on the chassis plus some change) and a 290mm wheelbase (2mm shy of the maximum allowed by ROAR rules, because I can't find that info pertaining to the EB410) every 1g (attainable even for 13.5T) of acceleration(positive or negative) there's 228gr that are transferred front to back so the weight bias during a 1g of acceleration would look like this:
F R
645 1008
39% 61%

Skipped squat induced CG changes and if the tires can take that 1g of acceleration (a bit lower transfer but remember we run anti squat so no big deal, the tires are the big deal but I think on upwards of low traction this info is solid provided the very scientific weighting method by DG Designs). This only happens for the numbers shared by DG!

@AntH3000 and @Krio, you seem knowledgeable, I like that. Always remember the car isn't static during racing

@Tekno, if you want me to keep spreading your secrets send free stuff to me. Just kidding!

Under acceleration on carpet this distribution is great, but on corner entry and mid corner I'm not convinced based upon the tyre width offset front / rear. Nice to see those figures on vertical wheel forces under acceleration.

10-13-2017, 10:03 AM

#1533

DriveItLikeYSIT

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Quote:

Originally Posted by MikeR

Thanks! Yes a few pieces to start but honestly the 410 looks pretty good out of the box.

Any plans to develop something this for the EB410?

10-13-2017, 10:13 AM

#1534

rvrslt1

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Was looking at Teknos web site and they only have the 81T spur gear. Is someone making a smaller one for 13.5 or will we need to use a 28 - 30 pinion?

10-13-2017, 10:15 AM

#1535

blueflagger

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Quote:

Originally Posted by rvrslt1

Was looking at Teknos web site and they only have the 81T spur gear. Is someone making a smaller one for 13.5 or will we need to use a 28 - 30 pinion?

70 and 76 are options that have yet to be released, it appears.

10-13-2017, 10:22 AM

#1536

EbbTide

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Any ETA on the optional spur gears? I thought they'd come along with the other optional parts on Tekno's website? Really don't wanna use the stock spur for 13.5 if I can help it lol

rvrslt1 likes this.

10-13-2017, 10:22 AM

#1537

ezlight

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Quote:

Originally Posted by rvrslt1

Was looking at Teknos web site and they only have the 81T spur gear. Is someone making a smaller one for 13.5 or will we need to use a 28 - 30 pinion?

Quote:

Originally Posted by blueflagger

70 and 76 are options that have yet to be released, it appears.

70T spur should be coming. But you can get to the right FDR with the 81t for 13.5 class. Internal ratio is 2.5 if you want to do the math.

I know Tito is running a 30t pinion on his for 13.5t

10-13-2017, 10:41 AM

#1538

Bob Barry

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yeah guys, not all of the parts, both standard and option, are listed yet. I know a lot of guys are looking for the servo horns and spurs (Myself included). I've been told you can fit up to a 34 tooth pinion with the kit spur. In order to get the recommended starting gearing, you would run either a 29 or 30, so you can see you'll still have a lot of room to adjust.

Personally I plan on just building an entire 2nd center diff with the 70t spur when it comes in stock.

Also I believe the Ruddog YZ2 servo horn works. It's not exact, but it's close.

frdtrkguy, ezlight and Tbuggy like this.

10-13-2017, 10:44 AM

#1539

BaggedRanger

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Quote:

Originally Posted by suzukipro

I have an extra horn I may try to modify if it looks like it'll work, otherwise I'll use the standard mount. Just figured someone else may have already successfully done this?

Not sure what servo you are using however the servo horn that came with my Protek 160T servo worked perfectly for the LP setup..

The factory plastic one stripped out on the second battery pack. Was going to get the Tekno one when they came out but then another driver let me know the Protek one worked perfectly..

10-13-2017, 10:44 AM

#1540

frdtrkguy

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Quote:

Originally Posted by Bob Barry

Also I believe the Ruddog YZ2 servo horn works. It's not exact, but it's close.

The offset one?

10-13-2017, 10:51 AM

#1541

mustangkillaz

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Quote:

Originally Posted by Tbuggy

I went with amain from the start and the only hold up now is finding the time for myself to build it!!

I'm staring at time..lol. I can build it for you if you don't find any soon. It would be at a pro level.

10-13-2017, 10:56 AM

#1542

mustangkillaz

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Quote:

Originally Posted by AccessRacer

Does anybody know anyone that would want to build my car for me? I am a quadriplegic and love to drive my cars but I cannot build them or work on them. Thank you

Would love to help you while I've got some time.

10-13-2017, 10:56 AM

#1543

Tbuggy

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Quote:

Originally Posted by BaggedRanger

Yup it worked for me as well.

10-13-2017, 11:47 AM

#1544

Tbuggy

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Quote:

Originally Posted by ezlight

70T spur should be coming. But you can get to the right FDR with the 81t for 13.5 class. Internal ratio is 2.5 if you want to do the math.

I know Tito is running a 30t pinion on his for 13.5t

There is not much room for a fan with the stock mount when you run 81t spur and 30t pinion.

If you can't wait its probably best to get the carbon fiber top plate/fan mount if running a 81t spur/30t pinion with your 13.5 motors. But, honestly I would rather run a side mounted fan so I am getting ansi for that smaller spur gear!

You do get a little more room with a mod motor cause you can run a smaller pinion, so side mounted fan works in this case.

ezlight likes this.

10-13-2017, 11:53 AM

#1545

Bob Barry

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Quote:

Originally Posted by frdtrkguy

The offset one?

This is the one Jason Snyder was using. I have one. Just haven't finished building my car. I'm waiting for some my bearings to come in before I finish it.

https://www.amainhobbies.com/ruddog-...p-0085/p538043