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Tekno RC EB410 Thread

05-13-2019, 06:33 AM - Wikipost

R/C Tech ForumsThread Wiki: Tekno RC EB410 Thread

Please read: This is a community-maintained wiki post containing the most important information from this thread. You may edit the Wiki once you have been a member for 90 days and have made 90 posts.

Last edit by: tobamiester

Welcome to the EB410 Wiki page.

Basic Stats/Features:

Shaft drive (tapered AL for light weight and straightness)
Gear differentials (all 3)
Low Angle CVAs (with captured pins so no ejecting them!)
Durable stub axles with 12mm hexes and optional offset adjustments
Reverse bellcrank steering system
Quick access bulkheads (for easy diff maintenance and tuning)
Spllt center diff holder (for easy diff maintenance and tuning)
8th scale style motor mount (for easy mesh adjustment)
13mm big bore shocks
3.5mm shock shafts
Droop screws

Videos

Servo Horns
Tekno included a plastic servo horn but also offers an aluminum one. This is highly recommended. Here's a list of servo horns that have been found to work:

Gearing:
Works out of the box for mod or 13.5.

Preference for Associated factory team pinions
Start mod gearing around 21t pinion
Start 13.5 gearing around 29t pinion with the stock spur (81tooth). If using a Tekin Spec R 13.5, start with a 24t pinion for medium sized indoor tracks.
Internal Gear Ratio: 2.5:1
For comparison:
B64 is 2.47:1
22-4 is 2.4:1
YZ4 is 2.6:1

Wheels

B6/22/rb6 wheels direct fit
22-4/XB4 front wheels direct fit
B64 front wheels will fit, but you need the +1 hexes (can use #TKR1654X, which is a +1mm hex)
22 2wd front wheels will also fit, possibly a good option for carpet.

Setup Sheets and other documentation
Setup sheets for all Tekno RC vehicles can be found here. Please be sure to try our recommended setup. It works very well on most tracks.

Ryan Lutz Setups
Instruction Manual
EB410 Resources
Ryan Lutz IOCC blog
PT Oil CST conversion Chart
List of Vehicle Setup Adjustments and Build Tips can be found here. There are several videos and articles detailing the building of shocks, diffs, camber links, etc.

Piston Drills:
Some of our setups recommend using pistons that are enlarged. For instance 4x1.9 or 3x2.0. To drill the pistons we recommend the following:

GMK Supply Piston Drill Set
16PC Metric Bit Set Metric Sizes 2.00 to 3.00 MM.
Harbor Freight 0.5mm - 3.0mm bit set * 2.1mm not included

Aftermarket Upgrades:

Warranty Policy:
Tekno RC is the only company in the industry that will give 50% off of parts if returned to them using the General Warranty return policy found on their website. The parts can be lightly used or completely abused, as long as the part is still being produced it's covered!

Build Tips:

When fastening the steering posts with a 5.5mm socket wrench, you can back space the socket with some nuts to help drive the post into the bulk head
Place an alcohol swab over metal threads and drive screws through the swab to clean both sides of threads before applying thread lock
Use a metallic marker to indicate what fluids you have filled in your diffs for easy identification
Apply thin layer of grease on crown gears to help hold gaskets in place for easy hole alignment
Bags F and H have 2 different size set screws, be sure to use the smaller 3x3mm screws for the hexes or you may run into problems installing wheels over the hex if you use the longer 3x4mm screws
To make is easier to slip the o-rings on the shock cap bleeder screws, apply a drop of shock oil and slip them over a 1.5mm hex bit, then line up the bit with the screw and transfer the o-ring over using fingernails or needle nose pliers
pinch+rotate shock caps in 17mm hex wrench to improve roundness
More shock build tips here
Use a 3.05mm drill bit or 3.05mm Kyosho arm reamer, 1/8" drill bits are not recommended because they are 3.17mm in diameter and tend to introduce too much slop, the pins are roughly 2.97mm in diameter
Replace the stock 3x14mm screws (TKR1405) with 3x20mm screws (TKR1409) in step H-10 in the manual in order to increase durability to the bulkhead.
When installing the front and rear differentials into the bulkheads be careful when tightening the 3x8mm screws of the cover that holds the diff in place. Bottom out the screws first (use a hand driver and make it hand tight) then check the diff to make sure it rotates smooth. If it binds up, start by backing out each screw 1/8-1/4 of a turn until the both front and rear diffs move freely. The plastic threads will keep the screws in place so don't worry if you think the screws are not secure.
When installing the steering hub kingpins (TKR6596), drive each one in hand tight only. Then check the movement of the steering hub. If it binds up, back out the kingpin screws by 1/8-1/4 of a turn until it moves freely. Then install the set screws (TKR1601) to hold it in place. Only drive the set screw in until you make contact with the kingpin. Do not force it.
If using the low profile servo mount, be sure to use smaller OD (outter diameter) washers to avoid rubbing on the center drive shaft. Protek ball stud washers are a good example of the acceptable diameter. You can chose to not run washers though it is recommended to use them as it makes for a more secure mount.
Ball Cup Alternative from AE: ASC91453. These are used as a harder composite option if you are not happy with the softer stock plastics. Note that these are approximately 2-3mm shorter and require compensation when building your kit to the manual specs to achieve proper camber/toe settings
Wheel Nut Alternative: Yokomo 4mm Thin Aluminum Serrated Flanged Nut

https://www.amainhobbies.com/yokomo-...-n4flt/p541494
Moving Rear Shocks to the Front of the A-arm

This is the break down of what's required by one of the Eb410 FB users.

Joey A.

So since there has been some people wondering about running the shocks in the front of the arm I though I would try explaining everything that I did to get them to work and why. My goal was to run as much stock stuff as possible with the least amount of modifications.

-Arms- need to be flipped and 1mm shaved off the back (spacing the arm farther back) running it this way the car is still a mm shorter then stock but more material could be removed for more adjustability but I have found no need to make the car longer.

-Inner ball stud- there are 2 ways of mounting, the first can be used with the stock plastic tower. All you need to do is use a 10mm ball stud instead of the lower shock mount screw and a little clearance from the shock tower and diff case. Using this method will work but the ball stud is moved lower and farther in then the stock locations which requires different pivot locations to try and correct roll centers. The other way (preferred) using the option carbon tower drill a hole higher and farther out if done properly you will be able to get the ball stud location in the correct hight(0mm) and between the two stock locations.

-Shocks- only 2 changes from stock you will need to space the top shock mount 2mm out. You will also need to run around 1.5-2mm less droop depending on your setup.

-Sway bar- this is the hardest part of the swap. This can be done a million ways I chose to print a mount in the stock ball stud location which allowed me to use the stock swaybars and arm mounting position. You can also bend your own bar and use the stock mounts on the back. You will have to drill your arms on the other side and closer to the pivot for this to work (remember you will need a thinner bar the closer you mount the lower pickup on the arm to get the same feeling as stock).

-Other- you will need to remove the drop screws on the rear arm. Depending on rear rims,hubs,ballcups and setup you might need to clearance the outer ball cup so it doesn’t rub on the wheel.

-Why- the benefits of running the shocks in the front are the ability to run a softer rear shock package without giving up corner speed and pack. The car will land without chassis slapping or packing out as easy allowing you to drive the car harder and it corners flatter and rotates faster without losing rear grip.

Sorry for the shity grammar,
TJR

Sway bar mount for forward mounted shocks: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Tekno-EB410...4AAOSwYNxahFkq

Exotek Sway Bar Mount http://www.exotekracing.com/eb410-re...ar-mount-6061/

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08-09-2018, 01:30 PM

#4531

Cain

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Matt: Any ideas on that piston changes I mentioned for your 8 x 1.1mm setup?

08-09-2018, 01:53 PM

#4532

Matthew_Armeni

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Quote:

Originally Posted by Cain

Matt: Any ideas on that piston changes I mentioned for your 8 x 1.1mm setup?

If you need better bump handling but can't go lighter on the oil then going up on the hole sizes should be fine. I would start by doing only 2 or 4 of the holes drilled out to 1.2 and keep the oil the same at first. I'm guessing if you go to 4x1.2 + 4x1.1 you'll end up at 50-100cst heavier to get the same static feel.

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08-09-2018, 09:52 PM

#4533

STLNLST

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Quote:

Originally Posted by Cain

I agree from what I saw in my boosted days, but, in general seems people are more comfortable doing boosted settings on the motor can that on the speedo.

Me, rather just do all that electronically, even if it was limited.

It's not actually boost if it isn't done in the speedo. It's just motor timing on the can.

Cain likes this.

08-10-2018, 08:45 AM

#4534

sea1swk

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Quote:

Originally Posted by rvrslt1

I changed my diff fluid and put in the composite gears. Took to the track last night and car was all over. 7/30/7 was the fluid and the rest of the car is set up per the 13.5 sheet. I’m at a loss. Do you need to make other changes when changing to the composite gears?

Only difference I noticed was it seemed a bit snappier when I accelerated. But that may have been in my head. I've been running them for about 3 months. Full Pucks, MIP Chassis and a setup almost identical to Matt Olson (maker MIP Chassis).

I'm starting to put a bit of pressure on them Pro's.

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08-15-2018, 07:44 AM

#4535

Cain

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Good outing by the EB410 here for mod. Ended up taking the win after fighting my way back from couple of back pile ups.

Really liking this astro setup that is common out there with a few changes for a bit more rotation. (less rear toe mainly).

Also my EB210 conversion has been doing great since I got it. Heck of a vehicle on the higher grip stuff we run on these days. Nice to also share parts with my EB410 too

08-15-2018, 07:24 PM

#4536

shadaloo

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Quote:

Originally Posted by Cain

So the eb210 and et210 conversions compete with legit 2wd's?? I love the design of the eb410/et410 so much id like to stay with tekno for those classes too..

08-16-2018, 07:58 AM

#4537

Cain

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Quote:

Originally Posted by shadaloo

So the eb210 and et210 conversions compete with legit 2wd's?? I love the design of the eb410/et410 so much id like to stay with tekno for those classes too..

I can't comment on the truck yet ... and I stress yet. Based on what I am seeing from the EB210, I have been really enjoying how it drives. Since spec class racing is king, in the 17.5 class I would do the common lightening items to get the weight down.

I am at about 1560grms or so with the stock chassis and common lightening items. Some of the newer changes to the conversion I think will bring down the weight a bit too.

Its driving feel reminds me of the Durango DEX210F and seeing comments people make about the kyosho RZ6, its probably similar to that as well.

The other vehicles at our track cover a variety of vehicles from the Associate B6.1, Yokomo YZ2, and even the schumacher latest 2wd buggy (forget its name).

The funny thing is the creator of the vehicle mainly uses it on loose tracks, something you wouldn't figure. For me as we changed over to astro, few changes to his recommended setups and its been great.

All in all I wouldn't mind tekno running with this platform a bit as a basis for other vehicle designs that cover more traditional classes, especially as the traction levels in general for RC have grown a lot.

Last edited by Cain; 08-16-2018 at 08:20 AM.

08-16-2018, 08:50 PM

#4538

STLNLST

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Ready for action with my own EB410. No more arrive and drives.

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08-16-2018, 08:54 PM

#4539

EbbTide

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Quote:

Originally Posted by STLNLST

Ready for action with my own EB410. No more arrive and drives.

now you're gonna be the one getting asked to drive your car haha. Good luck with it! Hopefully I'll get to drive with ya on a practice day sometime.

08-17-2018, 06:21 AM

#4540

billdelong

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*** Getting an error when trying to update the Wiki to add this link to the list of upgrade options:

Red RC ? RC Car News » T-Works EB410 titanium king pin screws

Quote:

T-Works have introduced a 4-piece set of titanium king pink screws for the Tekno EB410 buggy. The fasteners are made of high-quality 64 grade material for a low weight and exceptional corrosion resistance. Using the king pins in place of the original parts will reduce unsprung mass for increased suspension efficiency and an overall lower weight.

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08-18-2018, 10:08 PM

#4541

STLNLST

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Quote:

Originally Posted by EbbTide

now you're gonna be the one getting asked to drive your car haha. Good luck with it! Hopefully I'll get to drive with ya on a practice day sometime.

ran a few practice packs on Friday at LSR then ran Delta’s spec shootout today. Had some rough qualifying. I would be P5 for the A-main. After the 7min main was over I would take home the win the first time out with the kit setup with one change. This buggy turned a lot of heads today. Did I mention how easy this buggy is to drive ��

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Last edited by STLNLST; 08-19-2018 at 04:47 PM.

08-18-2018, 10:35 PM

#4542

EbbTide

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Quote:

Originally Posted by STLNLST

ran a few practice packs on Friday at LSR then ran Delta’s spec shootout today. Had some rough qualifying some I would be P5 for the A-main. After the 7min main was over I would take home the win the firat time out with the kit setup with one change. This buggy turned a lot of heads today. Did I smention how easy this buggy is to drive 😜😗

That's awesome man, one more win for the eb410

it's definitely the easiest car I've ever driven, followed by the eb210 conversion.

08-19-2018, 07:30 PM

#4543

Bob Barry

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Congratulations to Tekno's Tyler Hooks for winning the ROAR 13.5 4wd buggy National Title today!

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08-19-2018, 11:04 PM

#4544

STLNLST

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Quote:

Originally Posted by EbbTide

That's awesome man, one more win for the eb410

it's definitely the easiest car I've ever driven, followed by the eb210 conversion.

I'll have to look deeper into the EB210 conversion.

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08-20-2018, 06:55 AM

#4545

Cain

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Quote:

Originally Posted by STLNLST

I'll have to look deeper into the EB210 conversion.

yeah its worth a look. I swap cars alot, just how I am, one of my favorites is the Yokomo YZ2 line up, I felt I got the quality of parts with the reasonable pricing at the time versus say an Xray (quality, big $$$) versus the AE I had (okay quality, cheaper $$$).

after running the Tekno EB210 conversion for awhile now, I sold pretty much all my yokomos (last one here is my personal car, held on to for a buddy).

I haven't found the urge to swap

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