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Old 05-13-2019, 06:33 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech ForumsThread Wiki: Tekno RC EB410 Thread
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Last edit by: tobamiester
Welcome to the EB410 Wiki page.

Basic Stats/Features:
  • Shaft drive (tapered AL for light weight and straightness)
  • Gear differentials (all 3)
  • Low Angle CVAs (with captured pins so no ejecting them!)
  • Durable stub axles with 12mm hexes and optional offset adjustments
  • Reverse bellcrank steering system
  • Quick access bulkheads (for easy diff maintenance and tuning)
  • Spllt center diff holder (for easy diff maintenance and tuning)
  • 8th scale style motor mount (for easy mesh adjustment)
  • 13mm big bore shocks
  • 3.5mm shock shafts
  • Droop screws

Videos
Servo Horns
Tekno included a plastic servo horn but also offers an aluminum one. This is highly recommended. Here's a list of servo horns that have been found to work:
Gearing:
Works out of the box for mod or 13.5.
  • Preference for Associated factory team pinions
  • Start mod gearing around 21t pinion
  • Start 13.5 gearing around 29t pinion with the stock spur (81tooth). If using a Tekin Spec R 13.5, start with a 24t pinion for medium sized indoor tracks.
  • Internal Gear Ratio: 2.5:1
  • For comparison:
  • B64 is 2.47:1
  • 22-4 is 2.4:1
  • YZ4 is 2.6:1

Wheels
  • B6/22/rb6 wheels direct fit
  • 22-4/XB4 front wheels direct fit
  • B64 front wheels will fit, but you need the +1 hexes (can use #TKR1654X, which is a +1mm hex)
  • 22 2wd front wheels will also fit, possibly a good option for carpet.

Setup Sheets and other documentation
Setup sheets for all Tekno RC vehicles can be found here. Please be sure to try our recommended setup. It works very well on most tracks.
Piston Drills:
Some of our setups recommend using pistons that are enlarged. For instance 4x1.9 or 3x2.0. To drill the pistons we recommend the following:
Aftermarket Upgrades:
Warranty Policy:
Tekno RC is the only company in the industry that will give 50% off of parts if returned to them using the General Warranty return policy found on their website. The parts can be lightly used or completely abused, as long as the part is still being produced it's covered!


Build Tips:
  • When fastening the steering posts with a 5.5mm socket wrench, you can back space the socket with some nuts to help drive the post into the bulk head

  • Place an alcohol swab over metal threads and drive screws through the swab to clean both sides of threads before applying thread lock

  • Use a metallic marker to indicate what fluids you have filled in your diffs for easy identification

  • Apply thin layer of grease on crown gears to help hold gaskets in place for easy hole alignment

  • Bags F and H have 2 different size set screws, be sure to use the smaller 3x3mm screws for the hexes or you may run into problems installing wheels over the hex if you use the longer 3x4mm screws
  • To make is easier to slip the o-rings on the shock cap bleeder screws, apply a drop of shock oil and slip them over a 1.5mm hex bit, then line up the bit with the screw and transfer the o-ring over using fingernails or needle nose pliers
  • pinch+rotate shock caps in 17mm hex wrench to improve roundness
    More shock build tips here
  • Use a 3.05mm drill bit or 3.05mm Kyosho arm reamer, 1/8" drill bits are not recommended because they are 3.17mm in diameter and tend to introduce too much slop, the pins are roughly 2.97mm in diameter
  • Replace the stock 3x14mm screws (TKR1405) with 3x20mm screws (TKR1409) in step H-10 in the manual in order to increase durability to the bulkhead.

  • When installing the front and rear differentials into the bulkheads be careful when tightening the 3x8mm screws of the cover that holds the diff in place. Bottom out the screws first (use a hand driver and make it hand tight) then check the diff to make sure it rotates smooth. If it binds up, start by backing out each screw 1/8-1/4 of a turn until the both front and rear diffs move freely. The plastic threads will keep the screws in place so don't worry if you think the screws are not secure.
  • When installing the steering hub kingpins (TKR6596), drive each one in hand tight only. Then check the movement of the steering hub. If it binds up, back out the kingpin screws by 1/8-1/4 of a turn until it moves freely. Then install the set screws (TKR1601) to hold it in place. Only drive the set screw in until you make contact with the kingpin. Do not force it.
  • If using the low profile servo mount, be sure to use smaller OD (outter diameter) washers to avoid rubbing on the center drive shaft. Protek ball stud washers are a good example of the acceptable diameter. You can chose to not run washers though it is recommended to use them as it makes for a more secure mount.

  • Ball Cup Alternative from AE: ASC91453. These are used as a harder composite option if you are not happy with the softer stock plastics. Note that these are approximately 2-3mm shorter and require compensation when building your kit to the manual specs to achieve proper camber/toe settings


  • Wheel Nut Alternative: Yokomo 4mm Thin Aluminum Serrated Flanged Nut

    https://www.amainhobbies.com/yokomo-...-n4flt/p541494


  • Moving Rear Shocks to the Front of the A-arm

    This is the break down of what's required by one of the Eb410 FB users.

    Joey A.

    So since there has been some people wondering about running the shocks in the front of the arm I though I would try explaining everything that I did to get them to work and why. My goal was to run as much stock stuff as possible with the least amount of modifications.

    -Arms- need to be flipped and 1mm shaved off the back (spacing the arm farther back) running it this way the car is still a mm shorter then stock but more material could be removed for more adjustability but I have found no need to make the car longer.

    -Inner ball stud- there are 2 ways of mounting, the first can be used with the stock plastic tower. All you need to do is use a 10mm ball stud instead of the lower shock mount screw and a little clearance from the shock tower and diff case. Using this method will work but the ball stud is moved lower and farther in then the stock locations which requires different pivot locations to try and correct roll centers. The other way (preferred) using the option carbon tower drill a hole higher and farther out if done properly you will be able to get the ball stud location in the correct hight(0mm) and between the two stock locations.

    -Shocks- only 2 changes from stock you will need to space the top shock mount 2mm out. You will also need to run around 1.5-2mm less droop depending on your setup.

    -Sway bar- this is the hardest part of the swap. This can be done a million ways I chose to print a mount in the stock ball stud location which allowed me to use the stock swaybars and arm mounting position. You can also bend your own bar and use the stock mounts on the back. You will have to drill your arms on the other side and closer to the pivot for this to work (remember you will need a thinner bar the closer you mount the lower pickup on the arm to get the same feeling as stock).

    -Other- you will need to remove the drop screws on the rear arm. Depending on rear rims,hubs,ballcups and setup you might need to clearance the outer ball cup so it doesn’t rub on the wheel.

    -Why- the benefits of running the shocks in the front are the ability to run a softer rear shock package without giving up corner speed and pack. The car will land without chassis slapping or packing out as easy allowing you to drive the car harder and it corners flatter and rotates faster without losing rear grip.

    Sorry for the shity grammar,
    TJR

    Sway bar mount for forward mounted shocks: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Tekno-EB410...4AAOSwYNxahFkq

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Old 05-19-2018, 08:09 PM
  #4336  
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Thanks.

Looking forward to some testing tomorrow and some comparisons.
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Old 05-20-2018, 01:59 AM
  #4337  
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I plan to build a 4wd buggy soon and the choices are down to 2, an EB410 or B64D
Before i make my final decission i like to have your personal thought about those 2 kits, especially from you who has owned both or tried both or experienced both
I will race on 2 types of tracks only
- Outdoor, bumpy, loose, low grip, dusty, large
- Outdoor, hardpack, dusty, medium grip, small
Your suggestions based on technical and performance and also parts quality are trully appreciated since i am a budget racer
Thank you
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Old 05-20-2018, 11:37 AM
  #4338  
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Does anyone have the Tekno RC setup/explanation guide? I had it saved to my iPhone and iBooks decided to have it disappear and it was so handy to understand set up stuff.... I have had this happen one other time and I was able to find it...sadly i'm striking out now. If I can find id again i'm going to print it... can't stand my stuff dropping PDF files from time to time... Such a pain!
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Old 05-20-2018, 04:11 PM
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Talon, is this what you're looking for?
teknorc.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/06/Set_Up_Guide.pdf

Well, looks like I'm not allowed to post links yet, but you should be able to figure it out...
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Old 05-20-2018, 06:43 PM
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Got to do some testing on our astroturf here. started with a combo of an astro setup for a bumpy track and this one:

https://wwwcdn.teknorc.com/wp-conten...C%20Carpet.jpg

Our track to me in comparison to indoor / outdoor carpet we used for indoor racing is more like a medium traction and is a bumpy surface.

I tried some different sets of tires, from Schumacher stagger fronts with cactus rears to Jconcepts swagger fronts with pindown or lockness rears.

The Schumacher tires had more overall grip, but i liked the rotation characteristics the Jconcepts tires had.

The biggest takeway from the combo setup I did was that I really liked the 8 x 1.1mm piston setup. this had a significantly more plush setup than the 2 x 1.7mm front 2 x .2.0 rear setup. It handled flat landings significantly better and will run with that setup going forward.

I'll do some more testing tomorrow at our weekly races and come back with some questions, but one of the best results I saw relative to the shock package performance.
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Old 05-20-2018, 10:04 PM
  #4341  
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once again tekno impressed me with their engineering and quality... i love the reversed bellcrank, quick access to the diffs, and the way everything goes together is just amazing... by far my favorite layout. i love my other tekno's, but they are clearly improving still. i can't wait to get electronics put in and take it to the track! going to run 13.5 setup.. I only had 1 issue during the build, I had to dremel a part down to make it fit... but aside from that I really love everything about this buggy!

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Old 05-21-2018, 05:35 AM
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Default Exotek spur and mounting plate

Well, I finally experienced the stripped spur gear problem with my eb410 this weekend. Asking around, everybody says that the Exotek spur gear is the way to go so I placed my order on Sunday. Are there any tips or tricks to getting this set up to work correctly and are there any other recommendations on top of this to eliminate the strip spur gear problem? On a side note I've been in the hobby for 18 years so I know how to set up the gear mesh and I am running the Tekno carbon fiber Center diff top plate.
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Old 05-21-2018, 05:55 AM
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Originally Posted by Statz
Talon, is this what you're looking for?
teknorc.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/06/Set_Up_Guide.pdf

Well, looks like I'm not allowed to post links yet, but you should be able to figure it out...
perfect! I knew someone had to have it!
Thank you.
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Old 05-21-2018, 07:16 AM
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Originally Posted by losi b
Well, I finally experienced the stripped spur gear problem with my eb410 this weekend. Asking around, everybody says that the Exotek spur gear is the way to go so I placed my order on Sunday. Are there any tips or tricks to getting this set up to work correctly and are there any other recommendations on top of this to eliminate the strip spur gear problem? On a side note I've been in the hobby for 18 years so I know how to set up the gear mesh and I am running the Tekno carbon fiber Center diff top plate.
I stripped a spur gear once in the past 6 months of racing this car... I use a gel based thread lock and never re-checked my mesh when I first installed the motor. I just assumed that the thread lock would do it's job indefinitely, but what I have learned is that the thread lock tends to break down over time with hot motor temps and could potentially loosen the mesh. In my case, I recall taking a nasty tumble where my car went into a violent cartwheel... then about 2-3 runs later I had stripped my spur.

Since then, anytime my car takes a nasty crash during a race, I make it a point to re-check my mesh after the race. I've also learned the importance of re-checking my timing too and will put my motor on an analyzer once every 5-6 race days to readjust after any hard impacts, this also ensures fresh thread lock too.

I also use the Parma plastic pinions where they are roughly half the thickness of the spur gear, I haven't stripped these gears yet, but I'm aligning the pinion so if it should strip, then I can potentially use the other half of the unstripped portion of the spur gear later if need be
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Old 05-21-2018, 07:46 AM
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Originally Posted by losi b
Well, I finally experienced the stripped spur gear problem with my eb410 this weekend. Asking around, everybody says that the Exotek spur gear is the way to go so I placed my order on Sunday. Are there any tips or tricks to getting this set up to work correctly and are there any other recommendations on top of this to eliminate the strip spur gear problem? On a side note I've been in the hobby for 18 years so I know how to set up the gear mesh and I am running the Tekno carbon fiber Center diff top plate.
the stock Tekno spur takes a slightly tighter mesh than what you'd expect but for sure the Exotek option should make the mesh more consistent. Tekno also recommends an associated pinion gear but with the right mesh most pinions have worked for me
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Old 05-21-2018, 07:53 AM
  #4346  
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Originally Posted by losi b
Well, I finally experienced the stripped spur gear problem with my eb410 this weekend. Asking around, everybody says that the Exotek spur gear is the way to go so I placed my order on Sunday. Are there any tips or tricks to getting this set up to work correctly and are there any other recommendations on top of this to eliminate the strip spur gear problem? On a side note I've been in the hobby for 18 years so I know how to set up the gear mesh and I am running the Tekno carbon fiber Center diff top plate.
Tekno put out a video with Ryan Lutz on youtube, and like Ebb said the mesh should be tighter than normal. Ryan says that spur gears usually have a highspot or 2 on them in the video, and that the mesh should be tight enough that there is no play in the 1 or 2 highspots on the spur gear gear. May be worth watching the video just look up eb410 mesh on youtube and watch the video tekno put out. Also the volume is very low whn Ryan is speaking so you may have to turn volume up when he is talking.
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Last edited by tacobob89; 05-21-2018 at 08:15 AM.
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Old 05-21-2018, 08:20 AM
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Originally Posted by tacobob89
Tekno put out a video with Ryan Lutz on youtube, and like Ebb said the mesh should be tighter than normal. Ryan says that spur gears usually have a highspot or 2 on them in the video, and that the mesh should be tight enough that there is no play in the 1 or 2 highspots on the spur gear gear. May be worth watching the video just look up eb410 mesh on youtube and watch the video tekno put out. Also the volume is very low whn Ryan is speaking so you may have to turn volume up when he is talking.
Yes definitely be aware of the high spots for sure. Even the Exotek spur isn't perfectly round but if you catch the high spot and set the mesh to account for it then it's all gravy I have broken a pinion gear but not a spur gear yet
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Old 05-21-2018, 08:43 AM
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Originally Posted by EbbTide
Yes definitely be aware of the high spots for sure. Even the Exotek spur isn't perfectly round but if you catch the high spot and set the mesh to account for it then it's all gravy I have broken a pinion gear but not a spur gear yet
In the video Ryan says to find the high spot, and set your mesh on the highspot. He says to set the mesh tight enough that there is no play in the mesh on the highspots.
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Old 05-21-2018, 08:59 AM
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One thing I noticed is that the screws that secure the motor "cam" so that it doesn't move seem to loosen up themselves more that I have seen on a vehicle with a similar kind of setup.

I ended up adding a liberal amount of threadlock to the actual washer as well as a more liberal application of threadlock to the screw than I normally do. this I feel has helped as before I could tell there was some shift after a each run, more noticeable with full mod power.
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Old 05-22-2018, 07:06 AM
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another race in the books.

Grip came up from the testing I did Sunday so was grip rolling I believe. with the pace we run our evening races no real time to really do some setup changes so ended up going from Schumacher premount tires to the jconcepts tires I had. These were less grippy and worked well.

Big take aways were I need more low speed steering I feel and cut down on the grip roll I was seeing at times on turns I didn't feel were too aggressive (like full speed down the straight into a 180, yeah, I don't expect that to work lol) .

she is getting there though. 8 x 1.1 pistons feel excellent.

Side question, anyone try this setup?

http://site.petitrc.com/setup/tekno/...0128/setup.pdf

Last edited by Cain; 05-22-2018 at 08:50 AM.
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