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Tekno RC EB410 Thread

05-13-2019, 06:33 AM - Wikipost

R/C Tech ForumsThread Wiki: Tekno RC EB410 Thread

Please read: This is a community-maintained wiki post containing the most important information from this thread. You may edit the Wiki once you have been a member for 90 days and have made 90 posts.

Last edit by: tobamiester

Welcome to the EB410 Wiki page.

Basic Stats/Features:

Shaft drive (tapered AL for light weight and straightness)
Gear differentials (all 3)
Low Angle CVAs (with captured pins so no ejecting them!)
Durable stub axles with 12mm hexes and optional offset adjustments
Reverse bellcrank steering system
Quick access bulkheads (for easy diff maintenance and tuning)
Spllt center diff holder (for easy diff maintenance and tuning)
8th scale style motor mount (for easy mesh adjustment)
13mm big bore shocks
3.5mm shock shafts
Droop screws

Videos

Servo Horns
Tekno included a plastic servo horn but also offers an aluminum one. This is highly recommended. Here's a list of servo horns that have been found to work:

Gearing:
Works out of the box for mod or 13.5.

Preference for Associated factory team pinions
Start mod gearing around 21t pinion
Start 13.5 gearing around 29t pinion with the stock spur (81tooth). If using a Tekin Spec R 13.5, start with a 24t pinion for medium sized indoor tracks.
Internal Gear Ratio: 2.5:1
For comparison:
B64 is 2.47:1
22-4 is 2.4:1
YZ4 is 2.6:1

Wheels

B6/22/rb6 wheels direct fit
22-4/XB4 front wheels direct fit
B64 front wheels will fit, but you need the +1 hexes (can use #TKR1654X, which is a +1mm hex)
22 2wd front wheels will also fit, possibly a good option for carpet.

Setup Sheets and other documentation
Setup sheets for all Tekno RC vehicles can be found here. Please be sure to try our recommended setup. It works very well on most tracks.

Ryan Lutz Setups
Instruction Manual
EB410 Resources
Ryan Lutz IOCC blog
PT Oil CST conversion Chart
List of Vehicle Setup Adjustments and Build Tips can be found here. There are several videos and articles detailing the building of shocks, diffs, camber links, etc.

Piston Drills:
Some of our setups recommend using pistons that are enlarged. For instance 4x1.9 or 3x2.0. To drill the pistons we recommend the following:

GMK Supply Piston Drill Set
16PC Metric Bit Set Metric Sizes 2.00 to 3.00 MM.
Harbor Freight 0.5mm - 3.0mm bit set * 2.1mm not included

Aftermarket Upgrades:

Warranty Policy:
Tekno RC is the only company in the industry that will give 50% off of parts if returned to them using the General Warranty return policy found on their website. The parts can be lightly used or completely abused, as long as the part is still being produced it's covered!

Build Tips:

When fastening the steering posts with a 5.5mm socket wrench, you can back space the socket with some nuts to help drive the post into the bulk head
Place an alcohol swab over metal threads and drive screws through the swab to clean both sides of threads before applying thread lock
Use a metallic marker to indicate what fluids you have filled in your diffs for easy identification
Apply thin layer of grease on crown gears to help hold gaskets in place for easy hole alignment
Bags F and H have 2 different size set screws, be sure to use the smaller 3x3mm screws for the hexes or you may run into problems installing wheels over the hex if you use the longer 3x4mm screws
To make is easier to slip the o-rings on the shock cap bleeder screws, apply a drop of shock oil and slip them over a 1.5mm hex bit, then line up the bit with the screw and transfer the o-ring over using fingernails or needle nose pliers
pinch+rotate shock caps in 17mm hex wrench to improve roundness
More shock build tips here
Use a 3.05mm drill bit or 3.05mm Kyosho arm reamer, 1/8" drill bits are not recommended because they are 3.17mm in diameter and tend to introduce too much slop, the pins are roughly 2.97mm in diameter
Replace the stock 3x14mm screws (TKR1405) with 3x20mm screws (TKR1409) in step H-10 in the manual in order to increase durability to the bulkhead.
When installing the front and rear differentials into the bulkheads be careful when tightening the 3x8mm screws of the cover that holds the diff in place. Bottom out the screws first (use a hand driver and make it hand tight) then check the diff to make sure it rotates smooth. If it binds up, start by backing out each screw 1/8-1/4 of a turn until the both front and rear diffs move freely. The plastic threads will keep the screws in place so don't worry if you think the screws are not secure.
When installing the steering hub kingpins (TKR6596), drive each one in hand tight only. Then check the movement of the steering hub. If it binds up, back out the kingpin screws by 1/8-1/4 of a turn until it moves freely. Then install the set screws (TKR1601) to hold it in place. Only drive the set screw in until you make contact with the kingpin. Do not force it.
If using the low profile servo mount, be sure to use smaller OD (outter diameter) washers to avoid rubbing on the center drive shaft. Protek ball stud washers are a good example of the acceptable diameter. You can chose to not run washers though it is recommended to use them as it makes for a more secure mount.
Ball Cup Alternative from AE: ASC91453. These are used as a harder composite option if you are not happy with the softer stock plastics. Note that these are approximately 2-3mm shorter and require compensation when building your kit to the manual specs to achieve proper camber/toe settings
Wheel Nut Alternative: Yokomo 4mm Thin Aluminum Serrated Flanged Nut

https://www.amainhobbies.com/yokomo-...-n4flt/p541494
Moving Rear Shocks to the Front of the A-arm

This is the break down of what's required by one of the Eb410 FB users.

Joey A.

So since there has been some people wondering about running the shocks in the front of the arm I though I would try explaining everything that I did to get them to work and why. My goal was to run as much stock stuff as possible with the least amount of modifications.

-Arms- need to be flipped and 1mm shaved off the back (spacing the arm farther back) running it this way the car is still a mm shorter then stock but more material could be removed for more adjustability but I have found no need to make the car longer.

-Inner ball stud- there are 2 ways of mounting, the first can be used with the stock plastic tower. All you need to do is use a 10mm ball stud instead of the lower shock mount screw and a little clearance from the shock tower and diff case. Using this method will work but the ball stud is moved lower and farther in then the stock locations which requires different pivot locations to try and correct roll centers. The other way (preferred) using the option carbon tower drill a hole higher and farther out if done properly you will be able to get the ball stud location in the correct hight(0mm) and between the two stock locations.

-Shocks- only 2 changes from stock you will need to space the top shock mount 2mm out. You will also need to run around 1.5-2mm less droop depending on your setup.

-Sway bar- this is the hardest part of the swap. This can be done a million ways I chose to print a mount in the stock ball stud location which allowed me to use the stock swaybars and arm mounting position. You can also bend your own bar and use the stock mounts on the back. You will have to drill your arms on the other side and closer to the pivot for this to work (remember you will need a thinner bar the closer you mount the lower pickup on the arm to get the same feeling as stock).

-Other- you will need to remove the drop screws on the rear arm. Depending on rear rims,hubs,ballcups and setup you might need to clearance the outer ball cup so it doesn’t rub on the wheel.

-Why- the benefits of running the shocks in the front are the ability to run a softer rear shock package without giving up corner speed and pack. The car will land without chassis slapping or packing out as easy allowing you to drive the car harder and it corners flatter and rotates faster without losing rear grip.

Sorry for the shity grammar,
TJR

Sway bar mount for forward mounted shocks: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Tekno-EB410...4AAOSwYNxahFkq

Exotek Sway Bar Mount http://www.exotekracing.com/eb410-re...ar-mount-6061/

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03-12-2018, 11:47 AM

#4006

Tbuggy

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I just picked up a second EB410 and am going to set this up for a loose dirt track. I was wondering besides starting with stock setup and or the ONE setup on petitrc.com anybody else have figured something that is working for them?

03-12-2018, 12:08 PM

#4007

EbbTide

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Quote:

Originally Posted by Cain

any more news on the various piston options people are working on that go with more and smaller holes?

I haven't really seen anyone else try it other than Matt the Tekno rep. But you can be one of the pioneers for our benefit

I'm really liking the 2x2.0 rears with the four relief holes though. Not quite sure what size those are. Like .8mm or something like that

03-12-2018, 12:28 PM

#4008

Cain

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cool. I have a drill bit here that I could give that a look. what are you seeing different with the additional holes that you are liking?

03-12-2018, 12:47 PM

#4009

HeavyD99

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Quote:

Originally Posted by EbbTide

I haven't really seen anyone else try it other than Matt the Tekno rep. But you can be one of the pioneers for our benefit

I'm really liking the 2x2.0 rears with the four relief holes though. Not quite sure what size those are. Like .8mm or something like that

They are 0.8mm.

And for anyone else wondering, I asked and had it confirmed by a team rep, all of the team guys are running 1.7x2+0.8x4 machined pistons up front and whatever their choice is for the rear, 1.8x2+0.8x4 or 2.0x2+0.8x4 etc., they all run the 4 smaller relief holes.

Bob Barry and EbbTide like this.

03-12-2018, 01:03 PM

#4010

EbbTide

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Quote:

Originally Posted by Cain

cool. I have a drill bit here that I could give that a look. what are you seeing different with the additional holes that you are liking?

If you have some stock pistons they already have the four relief holes so just need to drill out the larger two to 2mm if not already for the rear

I am essentially using the stock fronts which are what HeavyD99 pointed out avove. 2x1.7 with 4x.8relief holes

And as for feel, well I had two different experiences. The first was running those pistons with the stock bottom cartridge setup. And it helped flat landing jumps a little bit more keeping any sort of donkey kick mostly subdued. The 2nd time I tried that same setup using the new MIP cartridge and while it helped in the same areas, it was more consistent and the rear seemed a little more supple and soaked up the bad landings even better. It also seemed to help with high frequency bumps keeping things a little more planted on the rear end. We have a chicane in the center of the track that has these offset bumps that can throw the car off center, but this time I felt I had more control to give it more throttle through that part keeping up speed for the next corner which was key to hitting the triple with enough speed.

03-12-2018, 01:06 PM

#4011

Cain

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Quote:

Originally Posted by HeavyD99

did they happen to say what conditions they went with for the rear piston setups (when they would use 1.8 versus the 2.0?)

Right now we have jumps here that in general you flat land. The vehicles will bounce a bit because of this. wondering if going back to 1.8 x 2 with the 0.8 x 4 hole setup could give back the pack I want but still handle some of the bumpier sections of the track better.

And if so, what oil ranges are they using with the 1.8 x 2 hole setup.

03-12-2018, 01:15 PM

#4012

HeavyD99

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I didn't ask for that information - I only asked if the team guys ran 1.7x2 or 1.7x2+0.8x4 pistons. The set up sheets did not clarify.

03-12-2018, 01:29 PM

#4013

Bob Barry

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Quote:

Originally Posted by HeavyD99

This is pretty accurate from my discussion among the team. Mason ran 8 hole pistons and I think Matt might have tried it too, but they are the only ones that I know have strayed from the standard. (1.7 fr / 2.0 rr). Some guys run 2.1 rear but the majority from what I have found run 2.0. I think that's likely due to the fact most of us have the 2.0 bit already. I have the 2.1 but I haven't tried it yet as the 2.0 has been money.

Currently my car has the recommended setup on it. I recommend this to everyone on Clay with a center diff. If you have the slipper, you'll probably need to tweak all of the setups listed on our site.

Brian Bush should have some good slipper setups for carpet on Petit RC too.

03-12-2018, 01:30 PM

#4014

Bob Barry

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Quote:

Originally Posted by Cain

pretty much never use the 1.8. The rear end pogo's around too much. We ran 1.9 once (Ohio) but even then settled on 2.0 out there.

03-12-2018, 03:51 PM

#4015

Tbuggy

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Haven't got to run it after my changes but shaved some weight and added some back on where I think is appropriate for me and got nice lean 1633g RTR weight.

Can stay almost the same weight by removing the 40g exotek weight and adding full size lipo...it just shifts the weight more forward then, depending on what I am looking for at the time. Also replaced all of the titanium screws on the rear underside of the chassis back to stock, to get more weight low and in back.

Hopefully get to run it this week and see how it handles after it's weight loss program!

(Don't mind the food waste bin..LOL)

03-12-2018, 09:31 PM

#4016

dirtyd_nd

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For those of you wanting to convert to a 2wd, I just saw this.

Coast2CoastRc Tekno EB210 2wd Conversion Kit Thread

03-13-2018, 02:30 PM

#4017

Tbuggy

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Exotek body is available now!
EB410 EDGE LIGHTWEIGHT BODY - Exotek Racing

03-13-2018, 03:24 PM

#4018

HeavyD99

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It kinda reminds me of the original 22-4 1.0 body. I like Exotek stuff but it's not for me. I ordered the Raw Speed body a while ago which I thought looked really good online but in person I found the cab looked really small and narrow making the main body appear larger than it really is, so it's sitting to the side. The JC body makes it look like a B64, so forget that noise! But it may get my money. Stock for now I guess

03-13-2018, 04:01 PM

#4019

Tbuggy

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I see what you are saying, I keep looking at it and like it less each time myself...the LFR body has been more appealing IMO. Stock one has definitely grown on me.

Quote:

Originally Posted by HeavyD99

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