I modified my pit board years ago, by adding a vertical 1x4" board at one end. I inserted 2 short 1/4" dowels into this 1x4, drilling corresponding holes in the pit board to easily install and remove. Gives me a "portable" wall in which I can measure the toe in/out easily (at home or at the track), using my camber gauge.

Is interesting when you ask someone their toe in/out measurement. Typical answer is "2 or 3 degrees toe out, per wheel" (in 1/8th scale). I put their car on my pit board and measure it. Not only is more like 4 to 6 degrees (sometimes more), rarely are the measurements equal from left to right wheel.

How many settings on setup sheets are based on "best guesses" vs. an actual measurement?

Ok cool...just thought I would ask. I'm using titanium ones from rod stock I ordered and are working fine. Ive only bent two OEM hinge pins since owning the car and they were slight bends. for what its worth Ive never bent any in my Xray or Losi. My daughter now drives my Xray 2017 and no bends...and shes not easy on it either. thanks

I hear ya bud but at least they are making the rolling updates so people don't have to wait for the eb410.2 to get the extra beef. I am not easy on my car either and the only bends or bulkhead breaks I've had were clipping pipes at speed or slamming into a wall after landing a double in a bad way. So everyone's having different experiences and an xray that has been updated over the years is kind of a bad comparison for a buggy like the eb410 that is brand new to Tekno and the RC industry. Growing pains are assured

My kit was first run, and still on original hinge pins, and she see's some spectacular crash's....

On my kit here seen 1 hingepin bend, it was a pretty good hit from a guy going the wrong way down the straight with a 4x4 SCT.

Is anyone else getting http 403 errors when visiting any teknorc web page?

negative

nope

Read earlier that you should bleed shocks by removing bleed screw, compressing shock, and then putting screw back in. Won't you sucks in dirt from around screw if that shock still has lower pressure inside then outside? Would it be better to slowly compress shock and then open the bleed screw?

If you want oil in your eye! LOL!

Growing pains ...no problem, in fact I think Tekno has done a great job for the first time buggy in this class, its just the handling of parts in question, like the front bulk head for example, they make a slightly stronger one to use in place of the stock weak one but its the same part, and call it an option part??? Most other companies would just acknowledge a design issue and fix it, replace and keep on truckin. I 've not broken front bulkhead, but don't really crash that much

There is always the option of sticking with the brands that operate in a way you can appreciate.

To be fair most of the broken parts including the bulk head are from a hard impact into something solid. Most other brands would also break in that scenario.
I saw a guy the other night barely tap a wall with a B64 and broke an arm.

In my opinion the EB410 is much more durable than most, if not all, wheelers out there. I'm not a fanboy as I also run and like AE.

My kit was Pre-Prod (no boxes or anything) and I've bent the front hinge pins ever so slightly. In fact since the bend was where the arm is cut out, I saved them in case of emergency. That shows you how slight of a bend it was.

I did bend 1 hinge pin bad when I blasted someone who flipped right in front of me on the straight. His car was picked up in three pieces, so I'll take a bent hinge pin in trade.

I had some bad crashes with my buggy, and never broke a bulkhead. Bent 2 hinge pins. Broken a few wings, and rear diff cover. Don't think I ever heard of that braking. Still not sure how it broke.
If I did brake a bulkhead, I would buy the new one and be glad that Tekno is constantly working to improve their products. Other companies will tell you it is what it is and if you want it better then buy the next generation of that car.