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Tekno RC EB410 Thread

05-13-2019, 06:33 AM - Wikipost

R/C Tech ForumsThread Wiki: Tekno RC EB410 Thread

Please read: This is a community-maintained wiki post containing the most important information from this thread. You may edit the Wiki once you have been a member for 90 days and have made 90 posts.

Last edit by: tobamiester

Welcome to the EB410 Wiki page.

Basic Stats/Features:

Shaft drive (tapered AL for light weight and straightness)
Gear differentials (all 3)
Low Angle CVAs (with captured pins so no ejecting them!)
Durable stub axles with 12mm hexes and optional offset adjustments
Reverse bellcrank steering system
Quick access bulkheads (for easy diff maintenance and tuning)
Spllt center diff holder (for easy diff maintenance and tuning)
8th scale style motor mount (for easy mesh adjustment)
13mm big bore shocks
3.5mm shock shafts
Droop screws

Videos

Servo Horns
Tekno included a plastic servo horn but also offers an aluminum one. This is highly recommended. Here's a list of servo horns that have been found to work:

Gearing:
Works out of the box for mod or 13.5.

Preference for Associated factory team pinions
Start mod gearing around 21t pinion
Start 13.5 gearing around 29t pinion with the stock spur (81tooth). If using a Tekin Spec R 13.5, start with a 24t pinion for medium sized indoor tracks.
Internal Gear Ratio: 2.5:1
For comparison:
B64 is 2.47:1
22-4 is 2.4:1
YZ4 is 2.6:1

Wheels

B6/22/rb6 wheels direct fit
22-4/XB4 front wheels direct fit
B64 front wheels will fit, but you need the +1 hexes (can use #TKR1654X, which is a +1mm hex)
22 2wd front wheels will also fit, possibly a good option for carpet.

Setup Sheets and other documentation
Setup sheets for all Tekno RC vehicles can be found here. Please be sure to try our recommended setup. It works very well on most tracks.

Ryan Lutz Setups
Instruction Manual
EB410 Resources
Ryan Lutz IOCC blog
PT Oil CST conversion Chart
List of Vehicle Setup Adjustments and Build Tips can be found here. There are several videos and articles detailing the building of shocks, diffs, camber links, etc.

Piston Drills:
Some of our setups recommend using pistons that are enlarged. For instance 4x1.9 or 3x2.0. To drill the pistons we recommend the following:

GMK Supply Piston Drill Set
16PC Metric Bit Set Metric Sizes 2.00 to 3.00 MM.
Harbor Freight 0.5mm - 3.0mm bit set * 2.1mm not included

Aftermarket Upgrades:

Warranty Policy:
Tekno RC is the only company in the industry that will give 50% off of parts if returned to them using the General Warranty return policy found on their website. The parts can be lightly used or completely abused, as long as the part is still being produced it's covered!

Build Tips:

When fastening the steering posts with a 5.5mm socket wrench, you can back space the socket with some nuts to help drive the post into the bulk head
Place an alcohol swab over metal threads and drive screws through the swab to clean both sides of threads before applying thread lock
Use a metallic marker to indicate what fluids you have filled in your diffs for easy identification
Apply thin layer of grease on crown gears to help hold gaskets in place for easy hole alignment
Bags F and H have 2 different size set screws, be sure to use the smaller 3x3mm screws for the hexes or you may run into problems installing wheels over the hex if you use the longer 3x4mm screws
To make is easier to slip the o-rings on the shock cap bleeder screws, apply a drop of shock oil and slip them over a 1.5mm hex bit, then line up the bit with the screw and transfer the o-ring over using fingernails or needle nose pliers
pinch+rotate shock caps in 17mm hex wrench to improve roundness
More shock build tips here
Use a 3.05mm drill bit or 3.05mm Kyosho arm reamer, 1/8" drill bits are not recommended because they are 3.17mm in diameter and tend to introduce too much slop, the pins are roughly 2.97mm in diameter
Replace the stock 3x14mm screws (TKR1405) with 3x20mm screws (TKR1409) in step H-10 in the manual in order to increase durability to the bulkhead.
When installing the front and rear differentials into the bulkheads be careful when tightening the 3x8mm screws of the cover that holds the diff in place. Bottom out the screws first (use a hand driver and make it hand tight) then check the diff to make sure it rotates smooth. If it binds up, start by backing out each screw 1/8-1/4 of a turn until the both front and rear diffs move freely. The plastic threads will keep the screws in place so don't worry if you think the screws are not secure.
When installing the steering hub kingpins (TKR6596), drive each one in hand tight only. Then check the movement of the steering hub. If it binds up, back out the kingpin screws by 1/8-1/4 of a turn until it moves freely. Then install the set screws (TKR1601) to hold it in place. Only drive the set screw in until you make contact with the kingpin. Do not force it.
If using the low profile servo mount, be sure to use smaller OD (outter diameter) washers to avoid rubbing on the center drive shaft. Protek ball stud washers are a good example of the acceptable diameter. You can chose to not run washers though it is recommended to use them as it makes for a more secure mount.
Ball Cup Alternative from AE: ASC91453. These are used as a harder composite option if you are not happy with the softer stock plastics. Note that these are approximately 2-3mm shorter and require compensation when building your kit to the manual specs to achieve proper camber/toe settings
Wheel Nut Alternative: Yokomo 4mm Thin Aluminum Serrated Flanged Nut

https://www.amainhobbies.com/yokomo-...-n4flt/p541494
Moving Rear Shocks to the Front of the A-arm

This is the break down of what's required by one of the Eb410 FB users.

Joey A.

So since there has been some people wondering about running the shocks in the front of the arm I though I would try explaining everything that I did to get them to work and why. My goal was to run as much stock stuff as possible with the least amount of modifications.

-Arms- need to be flipped and 1mm shaved off the back (spacing the arm farther back) running it this way the car is still a mm shorter then stock but more material could be removed for more adjustability but I have found no need to make the car longer.

-Inner ball stud- there are 2 ways of mounting, the first can be used with the stock plastic tower. All you need to do is use a 10mm ball stud instead of the lower shock mount screw and a little clearance from the shock tower and diff case. Using this method will work but the ball stud is moved lower and farther in then the stock locations which requires different pivot locations to try and correct roll centers. The other way (preferred) using the option carbon tower drill a hole higher and farther out if done properly you will be able to get the ball stud location in the correct hight(0mm) and between the two stock locations.

-Shocks- only 2 changes from stock you will need to space the top shock mount 2mm out. You will also need to run around 1.5-2mm less droop depending on your setup.

-Sway bar- this is the hardest part of the swap. This can be done a million ways I chose to print a mount in the stock ball stud location which allowed me to use the stock swaybars and arm mounting position. You can also bend your own bar and use the stock mounts on the back. You will have to drill your arms on the other side and closer to the pivot for this to work (remember you will need a thinner bar the closer you mount the lower pickup on the arm to get the same feeling as stock).

-Other- you will need to remove the drop screws on the rear arm. Depending on rear rims,hubs,ballcups and setup you might need to clearance the outer ball cup so it doesn’t rub on the wheel.

-Why- the benefits of running the shocks in the front are the ability to run a softer rear shock package without giving up corner speed and pack. The car will land without chassis slapping or packing out as easy allowing you to drive the car harder and it corners flatter and rotates faster without losing rear grip.

Sorry for the shity grammar,
TJR

Sway bar mount for forward mounted shocks: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Tekno-EB410...4AAOSwYNxahFkq

Exotek Sway Bar Mount http://www.exotekracing.com/eb410-re...ar-mount-6061/

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02-13-2018, 12:01 PM

#3676

ezlight

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Join Date: Oct 2014

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Quote:

Originally Posted by Scott R

I understand. You just missed on this one. You could have put the bumper with the suspension pills. Things that wear out a lot. Then folks wouldn't mind having to buy them because they actually get used. Your wing mount is a tank, I haven't hear of anyone breaking one yet, but I have to keep buying them for the bumper

You can shoot one my way...Somehow managed to bend one a bit on mine.

02-13-2018, 12:05 PM

#3677

hairymuffin

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try Boiling the bumper in hot water for around half hour. Makes it more flexible and not so brittle. Old trick we used to do to some 1/8 wings and side guards

02-13-2018, 01:43 PM

#3678

dirtyd_nd

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Quote:

Originally Posted by SanDiegoRacer

How hard is it to shorten the servo wires,fan wires,and the on and off switch? I would really like to clean those up and shorten them to exactly what I need. I would love to clean that hot mess up, but I’m to worried about screwing it up. Anyone know a guy that knows a guy? Local would be nice? Please

I'm not sure of the next time I'll be at SDRC, but I have the crimpers and pins if you want to knock this out. I can let you know the next time I head that way. Probably won't be till the week of the 26th if you can wait that long.

SanDiegoRacer likes this.

02-13-2018, 03:17 PM

#3679

Allen Drebi

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Quote:

Originally Posted by SanDiegoRacer

Talk to Jim hues or big dun
They’ll hook you up

SanDiegoRacer likes this.

02-13-2018, 05:10 PM

#3680

SanDiegoRacer

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I stopped by to look at the new track layout,which looks amazing encase anyone was wondering. Travis said he could help me out if he wasn’t busy,so if I can’t cordinate it with him by the time you come out Dirty maybe you could help a brotha out when your here. Or I may ask the gentlemen Allen suggested as well if need be,now that I know i have help out there it’s a little more motivating to dial this in. I’m told I should drive this class for a year before deciding on another class so I need to get out there and start tearing up some clay. Thank for your help everyone I will be in touch and post some pictures once it’s back together.

EbbTide likes this.

02-13-2018, 07:41 PM

#3681

ba4ma

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Which way is everyone mounting the tekno aluminum servo horn? I have seen pics of them mounted upside down and also mounted the standard way.Is there any advantage to mounting it one way vs the other?

02-13-2018, 07:50 PM

#3682

EbbTide

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Quote:

Originally Posted by ba4ma

You mount it the standard way when using a low profile servo and you flip it around when running a standard sized servo. It's for tie rod clearance under the steering brace.

SanDiegoRacer likes this.

02-13-2018, 08:04 PM

#3683

ba4ma

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Quote:

Originally Posted by EbbTide

You mount it the standard way when using a low profile servo and you flip it around when running a standard sized servo. It's for tie rod clearance under the steering brace.

Thanks EbbTide

EbbTide and SanDiegoRacer like this.

02-14-2018, 06:56 PM

#3684

EbbTide

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New goodies from Exotek including an Ackerman plate AND captured rear hingepins!

TEKNO UPGRADES

boudin4evr and SanDiegoRacer like this.

02-14-2018, 08:25 PM

#3685

Tbuggy

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Quote:

Originally Posted by EbbTide

New goodies from Exotek including an Ackerman plate AND captured rear hingepins!

TEKNO UPGRADES

I must have looked at their site two or three time today and didn't see any updates. Then I finally chilled out for the day and then you post this!

Those outer hinge pins look tempting and even the weighted "D" block...hmmm, and puck pins for if I just want to run the MIP drive shafts and not the outdrives.

Like a kid in the candy store!

SanDiegoRacer likes this.

02-14-2018, 08:36 PM

#3686

EbbTide

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Quote:

Originally Posted by Tbuggy

I did the same haha. Woke up from a nap after work and there had been a post about it on Facebook. I'm getting the d-block for sure though. That's the main one showing most wear for me and doesn't hurt to have weight in the rear with my current setup

I also got the outer hingepins and the ackerman but I'll probably only install the hingepins for now. Wait until the other stuff wears out or breaks.

Tbuggy and SanDiegoRacer like this.

02-15-2018, 07:08 AM

#3687

FastPete

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We have all the new Exotek up for PREORDER they will ship out to you Saturday 2-17-18

mazmorbid and SanDiegoRacer like this.

02-15-2018, 09:18 AM

#3688

SanDiegoRacer

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Damn them, I’m trying to rebuild my buggy. Quit coming out with cool stuff I don’t need yet that I’m still going to buy anyway. I swear it’s a conspiracy, lol. Side note, while disassembling my 410 I just realized both of my front hinge pins are bent and almost identically in the same way, what’s up with that. Good thing I’m breaking it down cause I personally couldn’t tell and probably would not have noticed

02-15-2018, 09:21 AM

#3689

EbbTide

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Quote:

Originally Posted by SanDiegoRacer

The stock steel kit pins were a little too soft and Tekno updated the hardness for all of the current replacement pins. So your next set should last you a bit longer. There are also the new M2C Racing hingepins that are hardened steel that you can get instead of the Tekno part but that's up to you

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02-15-2018, 09:24 AM

#3690

SanDiegoRacer

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Ok I will look into those, thanks. Just feel bad, I keep telling my girlfriend I’m not buying anything else for this 410 as I quietly click the complete purchase button. I’m just going to have to tell her this madness will never end, and apologize a lot lol