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Tekno RC EB410 Thread

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Old 05-13-2019, 06:33 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech ForumsThread Wiki: Tekno RC EB410 Thread
Please read: This is a community-maintained wiki post containing the most important information from this thread. You may edit the Wiki once you have been a member for 90 days and have made 90 posts.
 
Last edit by: tobamiester
Welcome to the EB410 Wiki page.

Basic Stats/Features:
  • Shaft drive (tapered AL for light weight and straightness)
  • Gear differentials (all 3)
  • Low Angle CVAs (with captured pins so no ejecting them!)
  • Durable stub axles with 12mm hexes and optional offset adjustments
  • Reverse bellcrank steering system
  • Quick access bulkheads (for easy diff maintenance and tuning)
  • Spllt center diff holder (for easy diff maintenance and tuning)
  • 8th scale style motor mount (for easy mesh adjustment)
  • 13mm big bore shocks
  • 3.5mm shock shafts
  • Droop screws

Videos
Servo Horns
Tekno included a plastic servo horn but also offers an aluminum one. This is highly recommended. Here's a list of servo horns that have been found to work:
Gearing:
Works out of the box for mod or 13.5.
  • Preference for Associated factory team pinions
  • Start mod gearing around 21t pinion
  • Start 13.5 gearing around 29t pinion with the stock spur (81tooth). If using a Tekin Spec R 13.5, start with a 24t pinion for medium sized indoor tracks.
  • Internal Gear Ratio: 2.5:1
  • For comparison:
  • B64 is 2.47:1
  • 22-4 is 2.4:1
  • YZ4 is 2.6:1

Wheels
  • B6/22/rb6 wheels direct fit
  • 22-4/XB4 front wheels direct fit
  • B64 front wheels will fit, but you need the +1 hexes (can use #TKR1654X, which is a +1mm hex)
  • 22 2wd front wheels will also fit, possibly a good option for carpet.

Setup Sheets and other documentation
Setup sheets for all Tekno RC vehicles can be found here. Please be sure to try our recommended setup. It works very well on most tracks.
Piston Drills:
Some of our setups recommend using pistons that are enlarged. For instance 4x1.9 or 3x2.0. To drill the pistons we recommend the following:
Aftermarket Upgrades:
Warranty Policy:
Tekno RC is the only company in the industry that will give 50% off of parts if returned to them using the General Warranty return policy found on their website. The parts can be lightly used or completely abused, as long as the part is still being produced it's covered!


Build Tips:
  • When fastening the steering posts with a 5.5mm socket wrench, you can back space the socket with some nuts to help drive the post into the bulk head

  • Place an alcohol swab over metal threads and drive screws through the swab to clean both sides of threads before applying thread lock

  • Use a metallic marker to indicate what fluids you have filled in your diffs for easy identification

  • Apply thin layer of grease on crown gears to help hold gaskets in place for easy hole alignment

  • Bags F and H have 2 different size set screws, be sure to use the smaller 3x3mm screws for the hexes or you may run into problems installing wheels over the hex if you use the longer 3x4mm screws
  • To make is easier to slip the o-rings on the shock cap bleeder screws, apply a drop of shock oil and slip them over a 1.5mm hex bit, then line up the bit with the screw and transfer the o-ring over using fingernails or needle nose pliers
  • pinch+rotate shock caps in 17mm hex wrench to improve roundness
    More shock build tips here
  • Use a 3.05mm drill bit or 3.05mm Kyosho arm reamer, 1/8" drill bits are not recommended because they are 3.17mm in diameter and tend to introduce too much slop, the pins are roughly 2.97mm in diameter
  • Replace the stock 3x14mm screws (TKR1405) with 3x20mm screws (TKR1409) in step H-10 in the manual in order to increase durability to the bulkhead.

  • When installing the front and rear differentials into the bulkheads be careful when tightening the 3x8mm screws of the cover that holds the diff in place. Bottom out the screws first (use a hand driver and make it hand tight) then check the diff to make sure it rotates smooth. If it binds up, start by backing out each screw 1/8-1/4 of a turn until the both front and rear diffs move freely. The plastic threads will keep the screws in place so don't worry if you think the screws are not secure.
  • When installing the steering hub kingpins (TKR6596), drive each one in hand tight only. Then check the movement of the steering hub. If it binds up, back out the kingpin screws by 1/8-1/4 of a turn until it moves freely. Then install the set screws (TKR1601) to hold it in place. Only drive the set screw in until you make contact with the kingpin. Do not force it.
  • If using the low profile servo mount, be sure to use smaller OD (outter diameter) washers to avoid rubbing on the center drive shaft. Protek ball stud washers are a good example of the acceptable diameter. You can chose to not run washers though it is recommended to use them as it makes for a more secure mount.

  • Ball Cup Alternative from AE: ASC91453. These are used as a harder composite option if you are not happy with the softer stock plastics. Note that these are approximately 2-3mm shorter and require compensation when building your kit to the manual specs to achieve proper camber/toe settings


  • Wheel Nut Alternative: Yokomo 4mm Thin Aluminum Serrated Flanged Nut

    https://www.amainhobbies.com/yokomo-...-n4flt/p541494


  • Moving Rear Shocks to the Front of the A-arm

    This is the break down of what's required by one of the Eb410 FB users.

    Joey A.

    So since there has been some people wondering about running the shocks in the front of the arm I though I would try explaining everything that I did to get them to work and why. My goal was to run as much stock stuff as possible with the least amount of modifications.

    -Arms- need to be flipped and 1mm shaved off the back (spacing the arm farther back) running it this way the car is still a mm shorter then stock but more material could be removed for more adjustability but I have found no need to make the car longer.

    -Inner ball stud- there are 2 ways of mounting, the first can be used with the stock plastic tower. All you need to do is use a 10mm ball stud instead of the lower shock mount screw and a little clearance from the shock tower and diff case. Using this method will work but the ball stud is moved lower and farther in then the stock locations which requires different pivot locations to try and correct roll centers. The other way (preferred) using the option carbon tower drill a hole higher and farther out if done properly you will be able to get the ball stud location in the correct hight(0mm) and between the two stock locations.

    -Shocks- only 2 changes from stock you will need to space the top shock mount 2mm out. You will also need to run around 1.5-2mm less droop depending on your setup.

    -Sway bar- this is the hardest part of the swap. This can be done a million ways I chose to print a mount in the stock ball stud location which allowed me to use the stock swaybars and arm mounting position. You can also bend your own bar and use the stock mounts on the back. You will have to drill your arms on the other side and closer to the pivot for this to work (remember you will need a thinner bar the closer you mount the lower pickup on the arm to get the same feeling as stock).

    -Other- you will need to remove the drop screws on the rear arm. Depending on rear rims,hubs,ballcups and setup you might need to clearance the outer ball cup so it doesn’t rub on the wheel.

    -Why- the benefits of running the shocks in the front are the ability to run a softer rear shock package without giving up corner speed and pack. The car will land without chassis slapping or packing out as easy allowing you to drive the car harder and it corners flatter and rotates faster without losing rear grip.

    Sorry for the shity grammar,
    TJR

    Sway bar mount for forward mounted shocks: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Tekno-EB410...4AAOSwYNxahFkq

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Old 12-05-2017, 05:42 PM
  #2686  
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Originally Posted by EbbTide
That's true, it definitely depends on the motor you're running. One day I may get adventurous and plop a 17.5 motor in with the 70t spur to see what the Aussies like about 17.5 wheeler hehe.
With the Schelle slipper there are a few spurs to choose from.
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Old 12-05-2017, 06:33 PM
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Originally Posted by STLNLST
With the Schelle slipper there are a few spurs to choose from.
I've never actually tried a slipper on a wheeler, mainly because I've only owned a couple lol. You think it's too hardcore for a novice coming from gear diffs? I really have no clue what it'd feel like and I'm a bit heavy on the trigger
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Old 12-06-2017, 04:52 AM
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Originally Posted by EbbTide
I've never actually tried a slipper on a wheeler, mainly because I've only owned a couple lol. You think it's too hardcore for a novice coming from gear diffs? I really have no clue what it'd feel like and I'm a bit heavy on the trigger
It’s been a dream on my B64 and fits on the 410. I feel it’s given me nice punch out of the corners compared to the center diff. Although the Tekno out of the box drives like a dream and I went faster with it than I did with my B64. I would like to do back to back testing with both once I get mine. Back to back testing on the AE I felt the slipper felt best to me and my lap time proved it.
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Last edited by STLNLST; 12-06-2017 at 10:26 PM.
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Old 12-06-2017, 05:48 AM
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Well, I ran the exotek spool and a 72 spur and I started at a 24T pinion and ended up with a 26t pinion. I just dropped the diff back on and the recommended gearing 70/25 seems right to me. I run a fantom V2R 13.5 motor. I hear about this 76T.... Is Tekno coming out with a 76T spur? Or is just people's wishes?
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Old 12-06-2017, 06:01 AM
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Originally Posted by JRSlash
Well, I ran the exotek spool and a 72 spur and I started at a 24T pinion and ended up with a 26t pinion. I just dropped the diff back on and the recommended gearing 70/25 seems right to me. I run a fantom V2R 13.5 motor. I hear about this 76T.... Is Tekno coming out with a 76T spur? Or is just people's wishes?
The 76T spur is mentioned in the kit manual.
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Old 12-06-2017, 08:23 AM
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Originally Posted by STLNLST
It’s been a dream on my B64 and fits on the 410. I feel it’s given me nice Pinchot of the corners compared to the center diff. Although the Tekno out of the box drives like a dream and I went faster with it than I did with my B64. I would like to do back to back testing with both once I get mine. Back to back testing on the AR I felt the slipper felt best to me and my lap time proved it.
I think maybe I'll just wait for Exotek to release their eb410 specific offering in that department so it gives me some time to actually try the box stock setup lol. But I definitely like the slipper idea more than having a locked diff. And I swear I will drive this thing before Christmas!
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Old 12-06-2017, 09:05 AM
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Originally Posted by RazorRC
Got a call/e-mail from Tower today asking me how I'm liking my EB410 and if there's anything they can help with. Just thought it was funny...
wonder if they are going to wait it out so you don't get in on the current e-cash rewards being offered ...

I'd be tempted to try this vehicle as a 2wd lol.
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Old 12-06-2017, 10:24 AM
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Are there any tracks near PDX someone could recommend to me? I will be heading down there next week for work and I am going to do my best to find a little extra time if there is something near by.

A lot of old websites from old tracks but not sure which ones still exist? Typically I run @ Tacoma RC raceway (which is clay). All I am looking for is something to do for fun while I am down there nothing serious. Even if its carpet and I am not set up right I will make the best of it!
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Old 12-06-2017, 11:31 AM
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For anyone that wasn't at SDRC to get the first run of the MIP Pucks, you can now buy them online at MIP The price is better than I first thought.

MIP 13.5 Performance Bundle Package, Gear Diff, Tekno EB410 #17150
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Old 12-06-2017, 11:34 AM
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Originally Posted by Tbuggy
Are there any tracks near PDX someone could recommend to me? I will be heading down there next week for work and I am going to do my best to find a little extra time if there is something near by.

A lot of old websites from old tracks but not sure which ones still exist? Typically I run @ Tacoma RC raceway (which is clay). All I am looking for is something to do for fun while I am down there nothing serious. Even if its carpet and I am not set up right I will make the best of it!
Underground RC in portland or NorthWest hobbies in albany. Underground is astro and NW carpet. No clay tracks in portland that I know of. Both have threads in the Northwest racers forum.
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Old 12-06-2017, 12:21 PM
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Originally Posted by JRSlash
A tip on how to properly bleed the EB410 shocks would be great.
Bleed screws are the answer total pain otherwise.
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Old 12-06-2017, 02:36 PM
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Not sure if this has been mentioned or not but as I was assembling the driveline I noticed the center front and rear driveshafts had a lot of movement in the outdrives so I remembered a trick from the carpet racing tc road course days and that was putting o-rings in the outdrives to keep the driveshafts from sliding back and forth making noise plus keeps the driveshafts and outdrives from getting all worn out there AE O-rings part#5407 but let me know what you guys think about this lil trick.

Second tip trick is the Tekno CF steering top plate doesn’t come countersunk for the flat head screw so you can get a countersunk bit for a cordless drill or dremel and do it yourself fairly easy just take your time and then seal it with some CA Tire glue on a q-tip and I swapped out the 3x6mm screw for a 3x10mm FH screw

Third thing for chassis protection the protek universal is a perfect fit after a lil trimming I cut out holes for the screws do to the need to access the screws for diff changes that are going to need to be serviced and tuning purposes the amain part # for the protek chassis protector is PTK-1102
Attached Thumbnails Tekno RC EB410 Thread-3e71d44b-93af-40d8-9dbd-cb7fdb11cf2f.jpeg   Tekno RC EB410 Thread-8bdb24fe-2e29-4087-a4a4-fcfd21805eea.jpeg   Tekno RC EB410 Thread-ad8a84a1-7719-48da-9d8e-1ae0c09a04df.jpeg   Tekno RC EB410 Thread-e0de75fc-590d-403a-9aeb-d741ad8992e9.jpeg   Tekno RC EB410 Thread-b870a4bc-e52a-4d5e-9f27-c1b1c211b136.jpeg  

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Old 12-06-2017, 03:15 PM
  #2698  
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For those of you that don't have a Bookface and can't view my beautiful new LFR body painted by DRC Grafix


rgrg2, thumper_pa, Tbuggy and 1 others like this.
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Old 12-06-2017, 03:27 PM
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Originally Posted by EbbTide
For those of you that don't have a Bookface and can't view my beautiful new LFR body painted by DRC Grafix


Thats pretty sweet!
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Old 12-06-2017, 03:31 PM
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Originally Posted by Tbuggy
Thats pretty sweet!
Thank you DRC took some creative authority and went with candy green instead of florescent like I originally intended. It turned out 100x better than it would have been with my color choice lol.
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