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Tekno RC EB410 Thread

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Old 05-13-2019, 06:33 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech ForumsThread Wiki: Tekno RC EB410 Thread
Please read: This is a community-maintained wiki post containing the most important information from this thread. You may edit the Wiki once you have been a member for 90 days and have made 90 posts.
 
Last edit by: tobamiester
Welcome to the EB410 Wiki page.

Basic Stats/Features:
  • Shaft drive (tapered AL for light weight and straightness)
  • Gear differentials (all 3)
  • Low Angle CVAs (with captured pins so no ejecting them!)
  • Durable stub axles with 12mm hexes and optional offset adjustments
  • Reverse bellcrank steering system
  • Quick access bulkheads (for easy diff maintenance and tuning)
  • Spllt center diff holder (for easy diff maintenance and tuning)
  • 8th scale style motor mount (for easy mesh adjustment)
  • 13mm big bore shocks
  • 3.5mm shock shafts
  • Droop screws

Videos
Servo Horns
Tekno included a plastic servo horn but also offers an aluminum one. This is highly recommended. Here's a list of servo horns that have been found to work:
Gearing:
Works out of the box for mod or 13.5.
  • Preference for Associated factory team pinions
  • Start mod gearing around 21t pinion
  • Start 13.5 gearing around 29t pinion with the stock spur (81tooth). If using a Tekin Spec R 13.5, start with a 24t pinion for medium sized indoor tracks.
  • Internal Gear Ratio: 2.5:1
  • For comparison:
  • B64 is 2.47:1
  • 22-4 is 2.4:1
  • YZ4 is 2.6:1

Wheels
  • B6/22/rb6 wheels direct fit
  • 22-4/XB4 front wheels direct fit
  • B64 front wheels will fit, but you need the +1 hexes (can use #TKR1654X, which is a +1mm hex)
  • 22 2wd front wheels will also fit, possibly a good option for carpet.

Setup Sheets and other documentation
Setup sheets for all Tekno RC vehicles can be found here. Please be sure to try our recommended setup. It works very well on most tracks.
Piston Drills:
Some of our setups recommend using pistons that are enlarged. For instance 4x1.9 or 3x2.0. To drill the pistons we recommend the following:
Aftermarket Upgrades:
Warranty Policy:
Tekno RC is the only company in the industry that will give 50% off of parts if returned to them using the General Warranty return policy found on their website. The parts can be lightly used or completely abused, as long as the part is still being produced it's covered!


Build Tips:
  • When fastening the steering posts with a 5.5mm socket wrench, you can back space the socket with some nuts to help drive the post into the bulk head

  • Place an alcohol swab over metal threads and drive screws through the swab to clean both sides of threads before applying thread lock

  • Use a metallic marker to indicate what fluids you have filled in your diffs for easy identification

  • Apply thin layer of grease on crown gears to help hold gaskets in place for easy hole alignment

  • Bags F and H have 2 different size set screws, be sure to use the smaller 3x3mm screws for the hexes or you may run into problems installing wheels over the hex if you use the longer 3x4mm screws
  • To make is easier to slip the o-rings on the shock cap bleeder screws, apply a drop of shock oil and slip them over a 1.5mm hex bit, then line up the bit with the screw and transfer the o-ring over using fingernails or needle nose pliers
  • pinch+rotate shock caps in 17mm hex wrench to improve roundness
    More shock build tips here
  • Use a 3.05mm drill bit or 3.05mm Kyosho arm reamer, 1/8" drill bits are not recommended because they are 3.17mm in diameter and tend to introduce too much slop, the pins are roughly 2.97mm in diameter
  • Replace the stock 3x14mm screws (TKR1405) with 3x20mm screws (TKR1409) in step H-10 in the manual in order to increase durability to the bulkhead.

  • When installing the front and rear differentials into the bulkheads be careful when tightening the 3x8mm screws of the cover that holds the diff in place. Bottom out the screws first (use a hand driver and make it hand tight) then check the diff to make sure it rotates smooth. If it binds up, start by backing out each screw 1/8-1/4 of a turn until the both front and rear diffs move freely. The plastic threads will keep the screws in place so don't worry if you think the screws are not secure.
  • When installing the steering hub kingpins (TKR6596), drive each one in hand tight only. Then check the movement of the steering hub. If it binds up, back out the kingpin screws by 1/8-1/4 of a turn until it moves freely. Then install the set screws (TKR1601) to hold it in place. Only drive the set screw in until you make contact with the kingpin. Do not force it.
  • If using the low profile servo mount, be sure to use smaller OD (outter diameter) washers to avoid rubbing on the center drive shaft. Protek ball stud washers are a good example of the acceptable diameter. You can chose to not run washers though it is recommended to use them as it makes for a more secure mount.

  • Ball Cup Alternative from AE: ASC91453. These are used as a harder composite option if you are not happy with the softer stock plastics. Note that these are approximately 2-3mm shorter and require compensation when building your kit to the manual specs to achieve proper camber/toe settings


  • Wheel Nut Alternative: Yokomo 4mm Thin Aluminum Serrated Flanged Nut

    https://www.amainhobbies.com/yokomo-...-n4flt/p541494


  • Moving Rear Shocks to the Front of the A-arm

    This is the break down of what's required by one of the Eb410 FB users.

    Joey A.

    So since there has been some people wondering about running the shocks in the front of the arm I though I would try explaining everything that I did to get them to work and why. My goal was to run as much stock stuff as possible with the least amount of modifications.

    -Arms- need to be flipped and 1mm shaved off the back (spacing the arm farther back) running it this way the car is still a mm shorter then stock but more material could be removed for more adjustability but I have found no need to make the car longer.

    -Inner ball stud- there are 2 ways of mounting, the first can be used with the stock plastic tower. All you need to do is use a 10mm ball stud instead of the lower shock mount screw and a little clearance from the shock tower and diff case. Using this method will work but the ball stud is moved lower and farther in then the stock locations which requires different pivot locations to try and correct roll centers. The other way (preferred) using the option carbon tower drill a hole higher and farther out if done properly you will be able to get the ball stud location in the correct hight(0mm) and between the two stock locations.

    -Shocks- only 2 changes from stock you will need to space the top shock mount 2mm out. You will also need to run around 1.5-2mm less droop depending on your setup.

    -Sway bar- this is the hardest part of the swap. This can be done a million ways I chose to print a mount in the stock ball stud location which allowed me to use the stock swaybars and arm mounting position. You can also bend your own bar and use the stock mounts on the back. You will have to drill your arms on the other side and closer to the pivot for this to work (remember you will need a thinner bar the closer you mount the lower pickup on the arm to get the same feeling as stock).

    -Other- you will need to remove the drop screws on the rear arm. Depending on rear rims,hubs,ballcups and setup you might need to clearance the outer ball cup so it doesn’t rub on the wheel.

    -Why- the benefits of running the shocks in the front are the ability to run a softer rear shock package without giving up corner speed and pack. The car will land without chassis slapping or packing out as easy allowing you to drive the car harder and it corners flatter and rotates faster without losing rear grip.

    Sorry for the shity grammar,
    TJR

    Sway bar mount for forward mounted shocks: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Tekno-EB410...4AAOSwYNxahFkq

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Old 10-23-2017, 11:04 AM
  #1816  
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Originally Posted by greener74
What is your method for putting the center diff back in? I had troubles this weekend and took about a half an hour trying to come up with an easy method. What I ended up doing was taking the top front screws out of the motor mount, and the bottom two screws out of the plastic rear diff mount. Then you can pull the top plate with the rear mount still attached. That gave me more room to get the bones back in.
I changed my center diff fluid by just removing the 4 top screws. You just have to fiddle with the drive shafts to get them lined back up.
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Old 10-23-2017, 11:09 AM
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Originally Posted by Wildcat1971
What diff oils are you running on indoor low to medium low grip?
I built my kit and ran it out of the box and it was reallllly good. I think it diffs are 15-15-7.
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Old 10-23-2017, 11:36 AM
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Originally Posted by EbbTide
*checks tower hobbies order* oh, well then you'll probably have yours before me

Are you going to be running it on carpet for the fall/winter?
Man, that sucks. I called tower Thursday and their answer was "call again next week" I hung up, cancel the order and search a little and it happened that bellgate distributor had 2 left. I bought one and my buddy bought the other one and is out for delivery today. Never again will preorder anything thought tower/great planes.
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Old 10-23-2017, 11:39 AM
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Originally Posted by JRSlash
Man, that sucks. I called tower Thursday and their answer was "call again next week" I hung up, cancel the order and search a little and it happened that bellgate distributor had 2 left. I bought one and my buddy bought the other one and is out for delivery today. Never again will preorder anything thought tower/great planes.
I'm starting to think I as well will never order from them again =/ Unfortunately I'm locked in with Tower for this kit so I just have to wait and hope for the best lol. The good thing is, this delay gave me time to fix my PC, so now the desk I'm going to build the kit at will have a working PC in the background for researching build tips as well as keeping the build manual on my big screen as I work. Just trying to look at the silver lining Though it's starting to get dull ;-;
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Old 10-23-2017, 12:08 PM
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Originally Posted by greener74
What is your method for putting the center diff back in? I had troubles this weekend and took about a half an hour trying to come up with an easy method. What I ended up doing was taking the top front screws out of the motor mount, and the bottom two screws out of the plastic rear diff mount. Then you can pull the top plate with the rear mount still attached. That gave me more room to get the bones back in.
Remove top four screws to remove diff. When putting back in insert front drive shaft in the cup first, then angle the diff upward and the rear shaft angled up also. line up the slot with the drive pin and push down and it will slip in nicely. It takes a few times to get it but once you get it down its as easy as Xray and AE.
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Old 10-23-2017, 12:15 PM
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Hey EbbTide that sucks man, to bad you’re stuck with the Tower order. I would’ve like to help you out as my plans have changed I’m selling my new set up, or probably going to end up returning it either way I’m losing a little $$. So hopefully Tower gets it together and ships out yours soon.
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Old 10-23-2017, 12:24 PM
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Originally Posted by Propchecku37
Hey EbbTide that sucks man, to bad you’re stuck with the Tower order. I would’ve like to help you out as my plans have changed I’m selling my new set up, or probably going to end up returning it either way I’m losing a little $$. So hopefully Tower gets it together and ships out yours soon.
thanks mate, I hope nothing too serious has caused you to get rid of the new kit!

it definitely sucks though, I think I made a big mistake in asking for this as a birthday gift lol. I should have just asked for electronics and bought the kit myself from Amain.
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Old 10-23-2017, 01:24 PM
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Propchecku37: The buggy at least you could come out pretty well based on what i am seeing on ebay. The rest may be better to just return.
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Old 10-23-2017, 01:49 PM
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Quoted From Matt@Tekno on the EB410 FB page.
Hello Guys, kits are in route to Hobbico and should be received by them in a few days. Unfortunately there was an issue (which we are unable to elaborate on) that delayed their shipment. The issue has been cleared up and anyone waiting on kits through Great Planes and Tower Hobbies should be receiving an update from them soon. We have no way of knowing if they are receiving enough kits to fill their customer’s preorders, so you will have to wait and see if you are one of the lucky ones. We apologize to anyone waiting as this looks bad on Tekno but please know this delay was completely out of Tekno’s control.
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Old 10-23-2017, 01:55 PM
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Originally Posted by YMMV
Quoted From Matt@Tekno on the EB410 FB page.
well at least there is some light at the end of the tunnel!

maybe they'll do another e-cash thing here within the timeframe when they show up.
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Old 10-23-2017, 02:01 PM
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Originally Posted by YMMV
Quoted From Matt@Tekno on the EB410 FB page.
It's going to be really sad if they get them in stock before the one on eBay sells in 5 days. Some poor dude will be locked in at 430$ (or more) plus shipping.
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Old 10-23-2017, 02:02 PM
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Originally Posted by YMMV
Quoted From Matt@Tekno on the EB410 FB page.
This is about the only good news I've had all day... so hey, silver lining folks lol
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Old 10-23-2017, 03:31 PM
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Originally Posted by Fluxit9
It's going to be really sad if they get them in stock before the one on eBay sells in 5 days. Some poor dude will be locked in at 430$ (or more) plus shipping.
I wouldn't be too broken up, its not like the guy had his arm twisted into bidding that much.

heck knowing that Hobbico may have them soon, if you got one to sell now may be the time to list it up on ebay for a good price buy it now if you are trying to move it.
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Old 10-23-2017, 03:34 PM
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Originally Posted by Cain
I wouldn't be too broken up, its not like the guy had his arm twisted into bidding that much.

heck knowing that Hobbico may have them soon, if you got one to sell now may be the time to list it up on ebay for a good price buy it now if you are trying to move it.
I just read a comment on the eb410 page saying that Hobbico claims to not have enough kits to cover every pre order for this first wave. This just makes me bonkers. They won't say how many people will miss out. Just that they don't have enough.
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Old 10-23-2017, 03:48 PM
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Ya they twisted his arm right off bidding $430.00+$18.00 for shipping. Lol. WoW!
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