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So... Bottom line! I have the 22-4 2.0 and run a 13.5. It's a lot of fun to drive but a pain to work on. Do I buy the B64D? Is it better or just as good?
I have the B6D and love it. Please give me your thought on this 429.00 decision. thanks |
Originally Posted by rvrslt1
(Post 14862910)
So... Bottom line! I have the 22-4 2.0 and run a 13.5.
I saw a bunch of the B64's run last week. I was very underwhelmed, but the car is still very new. I suppose setups will improve. |
Originally Posted by Finalist
(Post 14862093)
Yes, the AE video came days before the "X-ray vs b64 FB freedom" video.
Personally, I think it's the guy's bearings. When I detach my center bones from the rear or front diffs each diff still doesn't free spin like a ceramic cut gear b6 or the guy's X-ray - to me that means it's not the ring and pinion design, it's the bearings. Everything is super smooth and works very well, so I'm not in the "gotta have it spin like the x ray" camp. |
How are you running the car without the dif cover, what is holding the diff in place ?
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Any body have problems with diffs leaking? Ran mine last night and when I got home I noticed diff fluid around the frt diff case.
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Originally Posted by moto44
(Post 14863116)
Any body have problems with diffs leaking? Ran mine last night and when I got home I noticed diff fluid around the frt diff case.
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Originally Posted by sgtlt
(Post 14863112)
How are you running the car without the dif cover, what is holding the diff in place ?
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anyone try the shorter center brace yet? review?
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Ok my mistake, wasn't criticizing just wanted to know if you had some special trick going on. I am willing to try almost anything. lol
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Originally Posted by mellow
(Post 14863120)
Does you case have a hole in it?
Is that a common problem the cases having holes in them? I didn't notice anything when I put the diff fluid in. |
Originally Posted by moto44
(Post 14863187)
Is that a common problem the cases having holes in them? I didn't notice anything when I put the diff fluid in.
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Even though I initially was not going to get a B64D I got one anyway, I didn't really have to many issues with assembly, however it definitely does not drive like my 22 4 2.0, but still tweaking setup and generally like the car. Now to be fair the 22 4 2.0 i platform has been out a very long time and the 2.0 is a even more refined version, so naturally its going to be a more dialed car out of the box. The B64D is a new platform and just as any new platform there will be issues. YES even the EB 410 will most likely have some issues. Just the way it is. If you choose to purchase the first release of a new platform you should expect this, the only thing is how the manufacturer deals with issues and Associated is very good at rectifying issues.
If you want a car that hooks right up and drives amazing out of the box get the 22 4 2.0. If you are patient and willing to work and wait for setups and refinement of the product then get the new Associated , in time the B64D will be a great car for most instead of a few right now. Another thing is people are always saying how hard the 22 4 is to work on. The 22 4 really hardly ever needs work unless you are a crappy builder. The front diff is a breeze, rear diff doe require the removal of rear tower but not that big of a deal and ..yes...spur gear change is intense, small price to pay for a great car. |
Originally Posted by mellow
(Post 14863188)
Yeah, there's been people with one of 3 mold markings having a hole. I'd check that first. If you do have a hole a small set screw should fill it until AE sends you a new one.
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Originally Posted by Jmuck69
(Post 14863350)
It's a vent hole to prevent pressure buildup. :nod:
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Just a note for anyone running on turf, switching the center diff fluid from 100k to 500k made a huge difference in overall speed. My first few packs on 100k and the car was a slug, changed to 500k tonight and it was a rocket.
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