BRSracing

iTrader: (67)

all the AE factory drivers are running them. So its either not too wide or that rule in not enforced.

trf211

I use the 5mm hexes front and rear. Wider is softer, thinner is stiffer.

Still running the 10° caster blocks. Tried messing the with the A&B blocks kickup to add more caster but never really got it setup well. Went back to kit setup for A&B and it runs awesome. With less kickup and caster it corners nice and flat without too much dipping off throttle or under braking. The 13° caster blocks will make it more stable and less twitchy while steering.

trf211

Did some testing with the center diff oil for 13.5 on clay and ended up at 30k. Sounds stupid but it now carries more natural mid corner speed, don't have to hustle the buggy to go fast into and out of corners. Using a softer/grey front spring to keep the front from lifting as much on throttle and a stiffer swaybar on front to prevent the front from rolling as far off throttle.

Have tried 500k, 200k, 100k, 80k, and now 30k. I most often ran 100k or 200k but noticed the back end had a tendency to step out if I wasn't careful on the throttle in a corner. When I switched to 30k it didn't lose any acceleration which seemed weird to me. It only got more stable on throttle in a corner and carried a ton of corner speed off throttle. I could get on the throttle sooner in the corner as well.

Also running the outer hole on the rear arm to keep the back end from squatting as much.
Front 10k diff, 3x1.4 35w, grey spring, blue roll bar. Rear 7k diff, 3x1.5+1 32.5w, green spring, grey bar. Steering D/R turned down to 80%, +2 steering plates. Buggy feels like it's on velcro

Davidka

iTrader: (86)

Good to hear. I wondered how that would work but I get little enough track time that I was reluctant to try it. Let us know what you're seeing for front tire wear.

ddavila

Hi all, I just got this kit and was hoping someone could help me out if they’ve run into this. I have a weird binding in the drivetrain, it doesn’t spin freely. I found out why, but have checked everything and can’t see anything wrong. Here is a vid I took showing the issue. There is such a tight fit that when the dog bone spins on the side where that “c clip hook” is, it pushes the whole front diff case forward and flexes the chassis until the next revolution.

Copy and paste this link: https://youtu.be/QUZHmUMY9XE

trf211

From the video it looks like the dogbone is OUTSIDE the C-clip, you want it inside the outdrive past the C-clip. Take the center diff out and put the dog bone in at an angle past the C-clip, reinstall center diff.

mgers75

iTrader: (10)

The dogbone isn't inserted into the input shaft correctly because its hung up on the retainer ring. You want to insert the dogbone into the input shaft first and will probably have to insert at an angle to clear the retaining ring. You inserted bone into the center diff first and the bone can't clear the ring when you install it straight on. when installed correctly, there will be plenty of free movement in the bone and no binding.

trf211

13.5 expert driver of the night was at 15.630 fast lap and top 5 avg 15.7, top 10 15.8, top 15.9 to put it into perspective.



100k test



80k test



30k test with blue front swaybar and grey front spring

ddavila

That was 100% correct. Thank you for the help.

ddavila

Worked. Thank you!

Sully_

need some help with gearing. Running the exotek eliminator with a 75 tooth pinion gear and a 13.5 team scream motor.. What pinion do you guys recommend ?

hillbillyrcer

iTrader: (2)

I am new at Apex as well people have told me 78 spur 28 pinion. Yesterday at practice I was running a 75 spur and dropped down to 26 pinion but still didn’t have the punch I wanted with a 13.5 motor... I ordered a 78 spur hope it will be here by the weekend.

FinanceGuy14

iTrader: (2)

Questionable at best. I also have broken arms, but every one of those incidents have been spectacular crashes or landing/hitting a pipe at full bore at just the right angle. I encourage you to look within and think about the crashes again... maybe you're asking too much from your car, friend. Durability has never been the hallmark for AE. You know that. They make a great car at a great price, but usually comes at the expense of durability and craftsmanship.

And an RPM option? Really? Let's leave those for the bashers out there.

STLNLST

iTrader: (32)

Can’t really say leave them for the bashers when this was the fix for the previous wheeler. I can look within all I want but never replaced an arm of my previous two wheelers.

jl34

the new arms with a little more material/bulk are way better than the original arms. I haven't had a problem with the improved arms unless I tag a wall or some other driver error.