In the b64D or B64? The B64 I thought came with 7deg.

Put a set of B6 steering arms on and use 2mm of ackerman spacers.

I have the B64D kit #90015
I just got out my manual and it shows 10deg.casterblocks pt#92029

B64D comes with 10. B64 comes with 7.
I noticed this in the AMain description for the 7*:
Options:
ASC92028: 7° option: keeps the car flatter. Is generally used on smooth or high-grip surfaces.
ASC92029: 10° option: smooth, neutral feel.
ASC92030: 13° option: makes the car's suspension more active. Used on bumpy or lower grip surfaces

i went from the 7 degree to the 10 degree blocks for carpet felt much better!

I'm about to pull the trigger on a B64 for some 13.5 racing. Does anyone have any input on running the center diff with the MIP Performance pack vs running the kit drive shafts with the Exotek light weight spool setup? I will also be running the plastic diff gears. This is going to be run on carpet / astro only.

It comes down to if you prefer how the car handles with a spool/slipper or a center diff.

If you want to run plastic gears, you need to keep the center diff to prevent the gears from breaking. A center diff is more forgiving on the drivetrain.

If you prefer how a center spool/slipper feels, then just use two metal spider gears in each front/rear diff to reduce weight.

Is there an RPM from arm option for the B64? The arm breakage seems to have carried over from the previous buggy.

I know alot of people been braking arms but I have yet to break an arm,and I've crash alot.i have hard arms in my pit box but never had to use them yet.here's the part number on eBay b64d front arms hard ASC92026

If you are having a durability issue, there's a mod you can do that might help. You'll have to take a small amount of material off the rear of the arm to make sure it doesn't bind. Then, instead of the plastic washer that goes on the hinge pin with the arm, you use a shock O-ring. This gives the arm a bit of give on hard impacts.

really? I am quite the pipe banger. I have broken 2 in 3 months. Does not seem overly fragile. You running hard or plastic? I run plastic.

In all the years I've been racing, I cannot recall a 4wd car that didn't break front arms more than 2wd cars. I think there's a few sounds reasons for it- #1, 4wd cars usually hit things harder/faster (they are faster, and heavier), #2, 2wd cars have 20-30* of kick-up so the front suspension absorbs a lot of impact. 4wd vcar's arms run nearly flat, with most caster happening at the hub.

I didn't find the B44's arms to be objectionably fragile, I broke one here and there, but never so many that I would have claimed the part was the problem (and not my driving). I still changed to RPM's because those never broke and I like to finish as many races as possible.

I cant imagine the breaking of arms is through normal racing. Is this from bashing? Possible poor build.

I have hard arms in my box fearing the worse, but am still running kit arms. (4 months racing)

From personal experience Ive found this the most durable car Ive had, and Ive had a few.

Crashes and breaking arms happens. Tumbling off a jump, tangling with another car on the straight and drilling a hard wall, etc.

Hard arms may not be any stronger, they're stiffer as a tuning option for high traction. I don't recall graphite parts from the previous generation being any stronger.

Only arms I've broken were the original ones that came in the kit. I had one from the very first batch and there were air pockets in the arms. Haven't broken the set that replaced them.

I launched it off a triple straight into a pipe at a 45 deg angle, broke the arm....I totally think is should not have broke :P