710LikesTeam Associated RC10B64 Thread
08-01-2017, 03:20 PM - Wikipost
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10-11-2017, 12:51 PM
#2717
Tech Adept
Nope its to maximum down
yes, those are long ones, as per LV setup... but ok will try short ones, but honestly to say I not understand difference what it could make, because distance from shock eylet center to chock body (shock stroke) remains the same...with short eylet sroke is 29.5mm, but with long 27.5mm...just in long eylet case its 2mm more plastic on shaft and thats all... spring reteiner sits in the same distance for both eylets.
But will try, maybe my theory is wrong
white springs are softer, so maybe thats a reason
Anyway thanks for all help - will try it out at weekend and if will not find solution will come back here for help
But will try, maybe my theory is wrong
Anyway thanks for all help - will try it out at weekend and if will not find solution will come back here for help
10-11-2017, 01:39 PM
#2718
The long eyelets should have a longer distance from the bottom of the shock body to the center of the eyelet. The long and short should bottom out on the threads at the same depth. At the very least, they will allow the spring cup to sit lower.
10-13-2017, 11:28 AM
#2719
Tech Regular
10-13-2017, 11:30 AM
#2720
Tech Regular
Neil Cragg removes the top brace as Im sure you've seen from the setup sheets, but Ive heard he's bent the chassis also. May have nothing to do with it, but.....
10-14-2017, 12:09 PM
#2721
Tech Adept
Now my buggy sits 14mm at rear - can`t wait to try it out on track.
10-14-2017, 02:53 PM
#2722
Tech Addict
10-15-2017, 12:14 AM
#2723
10-15-2017, 08:03 PM
#2724
how are you temping right now?
Assuming your motor isn't having issues, personally when running spec classes I start by using a method that the late Big Jim, one of the premier motor guys of his time recommended to me, with a few changes. Basically, he said to start by gearing your vehicle to top out towards the end of the longest straight, then check temps. I do this, within reason if the straight is really long or insanely short, and see how the vehicle feels and how the temps are.
If all looks good, I usually stick with that gearing or adjust about a tooth or 2. This in general has worked really well for me on a variety of vehicle platforms from 1/10 scale 2wd an 4wd buggy up to 1/8 E truggy.
Hope this helps.
as a side note, you can over heat a motor by being undergeared and have it revving at its high end range of the throttle all the time. If you find you are pretty much topped out throttle wise around most of the track, especially very very early going down a straight, I would give my gearing a look for sure.
Assuming your motor isn't having issues, personally when running spec classes I start by using a method that the late Big Jim, one of the premier motor guys of his time recommended to me, with a few changes. Basically, he said to start by gearing your vehicle to top out towards the end of the longest straight, then check temps. I do this, within reason if the straight is really long or insanely short, and see how the vehicle feels and how the temps are.
If all looks good, I usually stick with that gearing or adjust about a tooth or 2. This in general has worked really well for me on a variety of vehicle platforms from 1/10 scale 2wd an 4wd buggy up to 1/8 E truggy.
Hope this helps.
as a side note, you can over heat a motor by being undergeared and have it revving at its high end range of the throttle all the time. If you find you are pretty much topped out throttle wise around most of the track, especially very very early going down a straight, I would give my gearing a look for sure.
10-18-2017, 01:02 PM
#2725
Tech Initiate
Has anyone used the Exotek lockout with the B64 for 13.5...if so, how is it?
I'm thinking of getting it but what parts do i need? It says i need the different sized center dog bones for the B64D and the B64D center diff cover...but as far as i know that center diff cover is the same for the B64/B64D. I checked both manuals and it is listed as the same part number. Am i missing something here or they just got that wrong?
I'm thinking of getting it but what parts do i need? It says i need the different sized center dog bones for the B64D and the B64D center diff cover...but as far as i know that center diff cover is the same for the B64/B64D. I checked both manuals and it is listed as the same part number. Am i missing something here or they just got that wrong?
10-18-2017, 01:19 PM
#2726
Has anyone used the Exotek lockout with the B64 for 13.5...if so, how is it?
I'm thinking of getting it but what parts do i need? It says i need the different sized center dog bones for the B64D and the B64D center diff cover...but as far as i know that center diff cover is the same for the B64/B64D. I checked both manuals and it is listed as the same part number. Am i missing something here or they just got that wrong?
I'm thinking of getting it but what parts do i need? It says i need the different sized center dog bones for the B64D and the B64D center diff cover...but as far as i know that center diff cover is the same for the B64/B64D. I checked both manuals and it is listed as the same part number. Am i missing something here or they just got that wrong?
Oh, and it will work with stock bones or MIP roller stuff. So, that's a nice touch.
But, I'm going back to the center diff. Diff just works better with my driving style. Going to put it up in the FS section later today.
10-18-2017, 02:38 PM
#2727
Tech Initiate
but i DO need to get the 64D bones though right, i have a B64 with the stock bones and slipper
10-18-2017, 04:13 PM
#2728
Tech Regular
10-18-2017, 07:17 PM
#2729
10-18-2017, 10:09 PM
#2730
Is someone get the size/ref. of the drive pins for the B64/B6 platform ?
doesnt' find any replacement kit on the AE site.
doesnt' find any replacement kit on the AE site.