Same here.......never liked SCT's before but now I'm coming around. I'm finishing my 22T 2.0 build now and am really considering a 3.0 SCT as my next build, assuming a 22T 3.0 doesn't arrive anytime soon. The class looks like a lot of fun and the 3.0 looks like a good handling machine.

New gear diff
 

Hi Frank,

Is the new gear diff available yet? Or anybody else know

I'm coming from a 2.0. I run my 3.0 in stock 17.5 on slicks on a high bite clay track and i find that the truck pushes in the slower turns. It has great stability and I'm very consistent with it. I started with Frank Root's set up. Since then i moved the battery forward about 10mm, lowered the front ride height 2mm. Still not as much rotation as i would like. Jumps and lands great.

Not yet. TLR's website is showing early February.

A few things you can try would be more antisquat (1.5 or 2), less rear toe, or shorter rear link. Personally I would try less toe (3*) first, then the antisquat.

I hurryied up and ordered the 2.0 before the 3.0 came out.
Luckily 6 months after I bought my 2.0 the 3.0 was getting ready to come out.
I'm still sticking with my 2.0 just because I like to run stick packs, and its rear motor for outdoor racing and that's what you need outdoors, is a rear motor truck.

I couldn't agree with you more. I reviewed the SC 2.0 a few years back inside RCCA, it looked good to me then I was just shooting bad so........... I took pleasure with the TS2 Pro which also utilizes the rear mounted motor and stick lipo. You should be O.k.

Less toe was my next guess. Thanks!

The 22t 3.0 is coming. I don't know what you call soon but it will be announced soon.

Got to run my 3.0 again today, this time on a tight low traction track. My previous run had been on a tight high traction track and I complained that the rear end of the truck wasn't rotating enough. So I reduced the rear toe to 3 degrees and that seems to have freed up the rear end more in the corners. I still feel I need to install the rear sway bar, as that will likely make the truck perfect for my taste. I started out with a shorty pack installed, all the way forward. Truck was a little too loose coming out of tight turns under power. I moved the pack all the way back and that helped. Ultimately I installed a brick pack and that settled the rear end traction in, without losing too much steering. So I won't be able to drive on a large outdoor track till the spring, but I feel confident that all I'll need to do is drop in a brick pack, along with the 25g rear brass weight that's already installed, and possibly move the rear hubs all the way forward - and I should have all the traction I need. And as I keep explaining to my fellow racers, there IS such a thing as a Slipper Clutch to control traction.....

Yeah the slipper clutch should not be used for traction control too much. Obviously it can help.

Also there is a 4 gear tranny that would help produce more rear grip if you really need it for low traction. This truck produces a ton of rear bite though.

This is correct Casper, the slipper shouldn't be set so loose that it's slipping more than a foot or so. I only set mine to slip a bit from a standing start with minimal wheelspin. That way I'm not overheating or glazing the pads. More than likely, with the new HD slipper spring included in this truck it should be easier to find and maintain the sweet spot in the slipper setting. And based on my preliminary findings, I do feel that the kit setup generates a lot of rear grip. So with further tuning and or strategic placement of weight, it shouldn't be too hard to make this truck work as well as my trusty RM 2.0 truck did on looser outdoor tracks. Won't know for sure till late spring here in the chilly Northeast.... And as you said, there's always the 4-gear tranny option.

There are other cool things you can do depending on your electronics. Tekin torque settings seem to help a lot with power delivery as well as drive freq to smoothen out the power to reduce wheel spin and get power tot he ground. I have been playing with the traction control settings in the new spektrum radio's as well and you can detune the power delivery with settings in your radio if you are overpowering the track. Other ways to curb a heavy trigger finger in low traction conditions.

We have some in IL, just waiting for the CA shipment to arrive.

Go to 3.5 toe, which is my setup. You can go to 3.0, but we generally found that 3.5 was a good balance, with 4.0 just being a little extra safe.

Im in the process of building mine, i had a question early on in the build.

Step B-1, trail setting, what offset should i be using here for racing purposes, offset inserts back, centered, or offsets inserts forward? The track here is clay.

Also, with the servo horn, is the aluminum one that you can get for the tlr 22 3.0 interchangeable?