TLR SCTE 3.0 Thread
#1291
Tech Initiate
#1292
#1293
Tech Addict
iTrader: (1)
^ FuryriderX is right.
They can strip on you when you get to torquing down on them. I never had the problem myself because I read about it on here and just automatically replaced them when I built my 2.0 from the start.
Also the stock screws are 10mm in length, so you get two more mm's by going with the 12mm set as well. This gives you more thread bite to also prevent stripping out the plastic diff cases if you over torque them as well.
They can strip on you when you get to torquing down on them. I never had the problem myself because I read about it on here and just automatically replaced them when I built my 2.0 from the start.
Also the stock screws are 10mm in length, so you get two more mm's by going with the 12mm set as well. This gives you more thread bite to also prevent stripping out the plastic diff cases if you over torque them as well.
#1295
Tech Rookie
Servo horn adapter
Anyone else have trouble with the 25t adapter on savox 1258 ?
Mine tight as and wont seat down all the way , had to whack it to get it on halfway
Mine tight as and wont seat down all the way , had to whack it to get it on halfway
#1296
#1298
Tech Addict
iTrader: (25)
Very New to the 3.0 from a "1.5" scte as I call it. I have a few questions I could not find answers to after reading here.
1. Is this the part number TLR331011 to use for screw-down battery holder on the 3? Anything else needed, is the hole there?
2. In regard to the springs and issues I read here, did LOSI re-release a stiffer spring tuning set for the 3.0 using the stock shocks? If not what type or brand do you recommend for racing clay and outdoor loamy surfaces?
3. Are the chassis braces from king-headz a necessary upgrade in the 3.0? I do have the HD C-diff w/Xray shims. Any other necessary upgrades or mods?
Thank you!
1. Is this the part number TLR331011 to use for screw-down battery holder on the 3? Anything else needed, is the hole there?
2. In regard to the springs and issues I read here, did LOSI re-release a stiffer spring tuning set for the 3.0 using the stock shocks? If not what type or brand do you recommend for racing clay and outdoor loamy surfaces?
3. Are the chassis braces from king-headz a necessary upgrade in the 3.0? I do have the HD C-diff w/Xray shims. Any other necessary upgrades or mods?
Thank you!
thx!
#1299
Very New to the 3.0 from a "1.5" scte as I call it. I have a few questions I could not find answers to after reading here.
1. Is this the part number TLR331011 to use for screw-down battery holder on the 3? Anything else needed, is the hole there?
2. In regard to the springs and issues I read here, did LOSI re-release a stiffer spring tuning set for the 3.0 using the stock shocks? If not what type or brand do you recommend for racing clay and outdoor loamy surfaces?
3. Are the chassis braces from king-headz a necessary upgrade in the 3.0? I do have the HD C-diff w/Xray shims. Any other necessary upgrades or mods?
Thank you!
1. Is this the part number TLR331011 to use for screw-down battery holder on the 3? Anything else needed, is the hole there?
2. In regard to the springs and issues I read here, did LOSI re-release a stiffer spring tuning set for the 3.0 using the stock shocks? If not what type or brand do you recommend for racing clay and outdoor loamy surfaces?
3. Are the chassis braces from king-headz a necessary upgrade in the 3.0? I do have the HD C-diff w/Xray shims. Any other necessary upgrades or mods?
Thank you!
There is a front spring kit for the 3.0. It is listed on the Tlr website. I replaced the rear red springs. I also wasted alot of money chasing all this spring talk. Conversions, kyosho springs. My advice is to replace red rear with a new red spring. Get the +4 lower mounts. And drive it.
There is no need for any aftermarket chassis braces. 3.0 braces are best ones they have made yet.
#1300
Tech Addict
iTrader: (25)
I kept the stock clips. I've seen to many lose the screw down mounts.
There is a front spring kit for the 3.0. It is listed on the Tlr website. I replaced the rear red springs. I also wasted alot of money chasing all this spring talk. Conversions, kyosho springs. My advice is to replace red rear with a new red spring. Get the +4 lower mounts. And drive it.
There is no need for any aftermarket chassis braces. 3.0 braces are best ones they have made yet.
There is a front spring kit for the 3.0. It is listed on the Tlr website. I replaced the rear red springs. I also wasted alot of money chasing all this spring talk. Conversions, kyosho springs. My advice is to replace red rear with a new red spring. Get the +4 lower mounts. And drive it.
There is no need for any aftermarket chassis braces. 3.0 braces are best ones they have made yet.
#1301
Tech Adept
iTrader: (5)
I did manage to break a stock rear brace. Completely my fault and under normal racing I don't think it would have. Running 3 cell on a very large track I over punched the throttle over a jump and landed rear wheels hard on the top of the next set of jumps and cartwheeled hard. Ended up bending the rear of the chassis plate which broke the rear brace. If the chassis wasnt tweaked I would have just replaced it with stock. The chassis almost went back into shape after a day of sitting flat and the kingz head brace did push it back into shape with no noticable tweak saving me from buying a 80 dollar out of stock at the time part.
I'm running both braces now with both center center uprights, they are super nice and excellent quality but do add some weight.
I did also get the tlr front springs running blues and the orange kyosho springs for the rear. But I have the extra weight of a 3 cell and the rears might be a tad too stiff. But would say any of those upgrades are very nice but absolutely not needed. If you do get the front brace with the tlr front top aluminum brace, the kingz head front brace will need to be slightly modified. Nothing a Dremel can't fix.
I'm running both braces now with both center center uprights, they are super nice and excellent quality but do add some weight.
I did also get the tlr front springs running blues and the orange kyosho springs for the rear. But I have the extra weight of a 3 cell and the rears might be a tad too stiff. But would say any of those upgrades are very nice but absolutely not needed. If you do get the front brace with the tlr front top aluminum brace, the kingz head front brace will need to be slightly modified. Nothing a Dremel can't fix.
#1303
Tech Initiate
I kept the stock clips. I've seen to many lose the screw down mounts.
There is a front spring kit for the 3.0. It is listed on the Tlr website. I replaced the rear red springs. I also wasted alot of money chasing all this spring talk. Conversions, kyosho springs. My advice is to replace red rear with a new red spring. Get the +4 lower mounts. And drive it.
There is no need for any aftermarket chassis braces. 3.0 braces are best ones they have made yet.
There is a front spring kit for the 3.0. It is listed on the Tlr website. I replaced the rear red springs. I also wasted alot of money chasing all this spring talk. Conversions, kyosho springs. My advice is to replace red rear with a new red spring. Get the +4 lower mounts. And drive it.
There is no need for any aftermarket chassis braces. 3.0 braces are best ones they have made yet.
#1304
With the replacement red springs and running +4 spring cups all the way around. I haven't had trouble getting my ride heights(usually around 23-24mm).
#1305
It should fit better then as on my 2.0 its a fraction wide and the velcro takes up the gap but is not as snug as I would like so the 3.0 should be spot on!