Go Back  R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Electric Off-Road
TLR SCTE 3.0 Thread >

TLR SCTE 3.0 Thread

Community
Wiki Posts
Search
Like Tree187Likes

TLR SCTE 3.0 Thread

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 03-30-2017, 01:46 PM
  #1291  
Tech Initiate
 
Join Date: Feb 2017
Posts: 42
Default

Originally Posted by Josh L
Yep! Those are what I run in mine. They are just as good as the HPI screws
What's the issue with the stock screws?
silverbugeye is offline  
Old 03-30-2017, 03:29 PM
  #1292  
Tech Rookie
iTrader: (2)
 
Join Date: Oct 2016
Posts: 8
Trader Rating: 2 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by silverbugeye
What's the issue with the stock screws?
Tiny hexes, strip out easy.
FuryriderX is offline  
Old 03-30-2017, 04:54 PM
  #1293  
Tech Addict
iTrader: (1)
 
Josh L's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: Greenville VA
Posts: 683
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by silverbugeye
What's the issue with the stock screws?
^ FuryriderX is right.
They can strip on you when you get to torquing down on them. I never had the problem myself because I read about it on here and just automatically replaced them when I built my 2.0 from the start.
Also the stock screws are 10mm in length, so you get two more mm's by going with the 12mm set as well. This gives you more thread bite to also prevent stripping out the plastic diff cases if you over torque them as well.
Josh L is offline  
Old 03-30-2017, 05:03 PM
  #1294  
Tech Adept
iTrader: (5)
 
cobrajet's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Clermont fl
Posts: 228
Trader Rating: 5 (100%+)
Default

What is a good buggy body that would fit underneath the truck body?
cobrajet is offline  
Old 03-30-2017, 11:02 PM
  #1295  
Tech Rookie
 
Join Date: Mar 2017
Posts: 5
Default Servo horn adapter

Anyone else have trouble with the 25t adapter on savox 1258 ?

Mine tight as and wont seat down all the way , had to whack it to get it on halfway
Dan1812 is offline  
Old 03-31-2017, 01:39 AM
  #1296  
ASA
Tech Adept
 
ASA's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2013
Location: Te Aroha, New Zealand
Posts: 219
Default

Originally Posted by cobrajet
What is a good buggy body that would fit underneath the truck body?
I am running a TLR 8ight 3.0e body on my SCTE 2.0.....just using velcro down the sides works mint!
ASA is offline  
Old 03-31-2017, 07:29 AM
  #1297  
Tech Adept
iTrader: (5)
 
cobrajet's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Clermont fl
Posts: 228
Trader Rating: 5 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by ASA
I am running a TLR 8ight 3.0e body on my SCTE 2.0.....just using velcro down the sides works mint!

Thanks, I was going to order 8ight body last night but for almost $30 I figured I'll check first, i thought I heard the scte 3.0 was wider then the 2.0.
cobrajet is offline  
Old 03-31-2017, 06:08 PM
  #1298  
Tech Addict
iTrader: (25)
 
derekbsmith's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Central OHIO
Posts: 706
Trader Rating: 25 (96%+)
Default

Originally Posted by derekbsmith
Very New to the 3.0 from a "1.5" scte as I call it. I have a few questions I could not find answers to after reading here.

1. Is this the part number TLR331011 to use for screw-down battery holder on the 3? Anything else needed, is the hole there?

2. In regard to the springs and issues I read here, did LOSI re-release a stiffer spring tuning set for the 3.0 using the stock shocks? If not what type or brand do you recommend for racing clay and outdoor loamy surfaces?

3. Are the chassis braces from king-headz a necessary upgrade in the 3.0? I do have the HD C-diff w/Xray shims. Any other necessary upgrades or mods?

Thank you!
anyone?
thx!
derekbsmith is offline  
Old 04-01-2017, 03:41 AM
  #1299  
Tech Adept
iTrader: (3)
 
Join Date: Aug 2007
Posts: 136
Trader Rating: 3 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by derekbsmith
Very New to the 3.0 from a "1.5" scte as I call it. I have a few questions I could not find answers to after reading here.

1. Is this the part number TLR331011 to use for screw-down battery holder on the 3? Anything else needed, is the hole there?

2. In regard to the springs and issues I read here, did LOSI re-release a stiffer spring tuning set for the 3.0 using the stock shocks? If not what type or brand do you recommend for racing clay and outdoor loamy surfaces?

3. Are the chassis braces from king-headz a necessary upgrade in the 3.0? I do have the HD C-diff w/Xray shims. Any other necessary upgrades or mods?

Thank you!
I kept the stock clips. I've seen to many lose the screw down mounts.

There is a front spring kit for the 3.0. It is listed on the Tlr website. I replaced the rear red springs. I also wasted alot of money chasing all this spring talk. Conversions, kyosho springs. My advice is to replace red rear with a new red spring. Get the +4 lower mounts. And drive it.

There is no need for any aftermarket chassis braces. 3.0 braces are best ones they have made yet.
derekbsmith likes this.
fordohio is offline  
Old 04-01-2017, 07:08 AM
  #1300  
Tech Addict
iTrader: (25)
 
derekbsmith's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Central OHIO
Posts: 706
Trader Rating: 25 (96%+)
Default

Originally Posted by fordohio
I kept the stock clips. I've seen to many lose the screw down mounts.

There is a front spring kit for the 3.0. It is listed on the Tlr website. I replaced the rear red springs. I also wasted alot of money chasing all this spring talk. Conversions, kyosho springs. My advice is to replace red rear with a new red spring. Get the +4 lower mounts. And drive it.

There is no need for any aftermarket chassis braces. 3.0 braces are best ones they have made yet.
AWESOME THX! So the 22 3.0 2wd buggy springs work with the 3.0 scte shocks?
derekbsmith is offline  
Old 04-01-2017, 08:55 AM
  #1301  
Tech Adept
iTrader: (5)
 
cobrajet's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Clermont fl
Posts: 228
Trader Rating: 5 (100%+)
Default

I did manage to break a stock rear brace. Completely my fault and under normal racing I don't think it would have. Running 3 cell on a very large track I over punched the throttle over a jump and landed rear wheels hard on the top of the next set of jumps and cartwheeled hard. Ended up bending the rear of the chassis plate which broke the rear brace. If the chassis wasnt tweaked I would have just replaced it with stock. The chassis almost went back into shape after a day of sitting flat and the kingz head brace did push it back into shape with no noticable tweak saving me from buying a 80 dollar out of stock at the time part.
I'm running both braces now with both center center uprights, they are super nice and excellent quality but do add some weight.
I did also get the tlr front springs running blues and the orange kyosho springs for the rear. But I have the extra weight of a 3 cell and the rears might be a tad too stiff. But would say any of those upgrades are very nice but absolutely not needed. If you do get the front brace with the tlr front top aluminum brace, the kingz head front brace will need to be slightly modified. Nothing a Dremel can't fix.
cobrajet is offline  
Old 04-01-2017, 10:00 AM
  #1302  
Tech Master
iTrader: (39)
 
thirtydaZe's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2016
Location: Omaha
Posts: 1,300
Trader Rating: 39 (100%+)
Default

is anyone replacing the stock chassis braces? if so, what are you replacing them with?
thirtydaZe is offline  
Old 04-01-2017, 12:27 PM
  #1303  
Tech Initiate
 
Join Date: Feb 2017
Posts: 42
Default

Originally Posted by fordohio
I kept the stock clips. I've seen to many lose the screw down mounts.

There is a front spring kit for the 3.0. It is listed on the Tlr website. I replaced the rear red springs. I also wasted alot of money chasing all this spring talk. Conversions, kyosho springs. My advice is to replace red rear with a new red spring. Get the +4 lower mounts. And drive it.

There is no need for any aftermarket chassis braces. 3.0 braces are best ones they have made yet.
I just got my kit a few weeks ago. Would I still need to replace the rear springs? Sorry.. just confused on the replace red for new reds.
silverbugeye is offline  
Old 04-01-2017, 02:31 PM
  #1304  
Tech Adept
iTrader: (3)
 
Join Date: Aug 2007
Posts: 136
Trader Rating: 3 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by silverbugeye
I just got my kit a few weeks ago. Would I still need to replace the rear springs? Sorry.. just confused on the replace red for new reds.
Some of the original red springs either were weak or got weak fast. As far as I know the red springs(tlr5169) that you buy separately didn't have that problem.

With the replacement red springs and running +4 spring cups all the way around. I haven't had trouble getting my ride heights(usually around 23-24mm).
fordohio is offline  
Old 04-01-2017, 02:36 PM
  #1305  
ASA
Tech Adept
 
ASA's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2013
Location: Te Aroha, New Zealand
Posts: 219
Default

Originally Posted by cobrajet
Thanks, I was going to order 8ight body last night but for almost $30 I figured I'll check first, i thought I heard the scte 3.0 was wider then the 2.0.
It should fit better then as on my 2.0 its a fraction wide and the velcro takes up the gap but is not as snug as I would like so the 3.0 should be spot on!
ASA is offline  


Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service -

Copyright © 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.