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Old 10-17-2018, 02:12 PM
  #1981  
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Originally Posted by eortizr
First time on the track last night, this truck is awesome, box setup, except for orange springs all around. missed the TQ by 2.5 seconds, then during warm-up at the Main, I lost a tire, lol, starterd a lap down and was just behind the leader at the last minute when the steering link screw came out. Still got 3rd DNF, but it was so much fun, super easy to drive.
congrats , yeah this truck is awesome. I built this kit to run in our local series and I won. Never raced 4wd plus I entered the series late and raced vet racers. All I changed from the stock setup was the front droop cause it was lifting to much.
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Old 10-17-2018, 06:53 PM
  #1982  
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Originally Posted by eortizr
First time on the track last night, this truck is awesome, box setup, except for orange springs all around. missed the TQ by 2.5 seconds, then during warm-up at the Main, I lost a tire, lol, starterd a lap down and was just behind the leader at the last minute when the steering link screw came out. Still got 3rd DNF, but it was so much fun, super easy to drive.
The screw at the servo end or the bellcrank end? I noticed the one at the bellcrank end trying to work loose on me despite the nylock insert-nut, so I changed out the button-head screw for a caphead screw 1/8" longer than the original, so that I could get it tight enough without stripping out the head, and having enough thread to go all the way through the nylock so that I knew it was gripping.

I also put an aluminum #4 washer between the ball-link and the arm on both ends so that the linkage lines up a bit flatter from servo to bellcrank, and you get a bit of squash-grip between the washer and link ball when you tighten things.

https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rct...5f8b7302e1.jpg
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Old 10-18-2018, 09:56 AM
  #1983  
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Originally Posted by tmk
The screw at the servo end or the bellcrank end? I noticed the one at the bellcrank end trying to work loose on me despite the nylock insert-nut, so I changed out the button-head screw for a caphead screw 1/8" longer than the original, so that I could get it tight enough without stripping out the head, and having enough thread to go all the way through the nylock so that I knew it was gripping.

I also put an aluminum #4 washer between the ball-link and the arm on both ends so that the linkage lines up a bit flatter from servo to bellcrank, and you get a bit of squash-grip between the washer and link ball when you tighten things.

https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rct...5f8b7302e1.jpg
Thanks for the idea, that is exactly what happened to me
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Old 10-22-2018, 06:55 PM
  #1984  
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...I discovered something today.

In the process of rebuilding after a teardown, I got to looking at the rear bulkhead rear hinge-pin mount as I was tightening it down - and it was =bending=. Looking at the rear bulkhead half-shell where the mount sits against, it wasn't flat across - it bellied out =just= slightly, and was causing the outer ends to move forward and bind up the rear arms.

A LOT of things suddenly started making sense. I dug out the Dremel and a sanding barrel, and scuffed off the face where the mount sits, just between the bosses where the holes for the chassis screws are molded in, and just enough to take the high-spot out. NOW, I can tighten the long rear screws down completely, and nothing binds up.


Last edited by tmk; 10-22-2018 at 08:08 PM.
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Old 11-20-2018, 05:57 AM
  #1985  
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is this an OK esc and motor to use on this car?
https://www.amainhobbies.com/hobbywi...010201/p607216

is there a better one to use in that price range or cheaper that would work better?
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Old 11-20-2018, 08:48 AM
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Originally Posted by rekim
is this an OK esc and motor to use on this car?
https://www.amainhobbies.com/hobbywi...010201/p607216

is there a better one to use in that price range or cheaper that would work better?
I would say yes. I an XERUN combo in my 1/8 buggy and it works fine. You just want to choose the right kv motor. The Max 10 Pro has 3 motor kv choices. Your link is for the 4000kV. I don't have a real short course truck but I have a Losi SCBE which is an SCT with a buggy boby. It came with a 3800 kV motor. So tthe 4000 seems like the right one. The other two are 3200 and 4600.
https://www.hobbywingdirect.com/coll...nt=27756665553

If you don't already have a Hobbywing programmer, you will need one. I like the wifi one and use their phone app. Or you can use the LCD one which is less expensive.
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Old 11-21-2018, 11:10 AM
  #1987  
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do you think the hobbywing xerun xr10 justock would work or no?
https://www.amainhobbies.com/hobbywi...112000/p464566

i already have one of these, so it would save me quite a bit of money since i would only need to buy a motor. sorry for the dumb questions. i never really understood what would make an ESC strong enough for certain cars and not others.
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Old 11-21-2018, 12:26 PM
  #1988  
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Originally Posted by rekim
do you think the hobbywing xerun xr10 justock would work or no?
I think it depends on what you mean by "work". It will run one of the suggested motors and your car will move around but it doesn't look like the two ESC's are comparable in terms of power. The XR10 Juststosk is much lower cost that the EZrun SCT, current rating are different, etc. But the XR10 will run a sensored motor but on the other hand the timing is fixed at 0 degrees. I think the EZrun SCT will probably make more power. In the Hobbywing line though the XErun XR8 SCT would be the HW top of line for an SCT and is less expensive than the EZrun SCT.
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Old 11-21-2018, 02:15 PM
  #1989  
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Amp draw is way too high on these to run a spec ESC. I would not do it. You should be in the 8th scale ESC's. If you try to run a "10th scale" ESC with a fan I have seen it done but would not typically recommend.
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Old 11-21-2018, 02:46 PM
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The ezrun comes with motor so is still cheaper. I do have a 120a hobbywing pro i could use. I will need to go through my stuff to see what i can borrow

thanks
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Old 11-21-2018, 03:13 PM
  #1991  
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theres been a quiet scte takeover in our series races, of the top 7 drivers 6 of them are the TLR.. its a good truck.
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Old 11-26-2018, 06:43 AM
  #1992  
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i ordered the hobbywing XR8 SCT ESC and 3652SD G2 4300kV
for the servo i got spektrum 6040

now i just need to order a pinion and the car itself
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Old 11-28-2018, 09:57 AM
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Originally Posted by rekim
i ordered the hobbywing XR8 SCT ESC and 3652SD G2 4300kV
for the servo i got spektrum 6040

now i just need to order a pinion and the car itself
I have both if you would consider used.
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Old 11-29-2018, 10:08 AM
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Originally Posted by jjl1
I have both if you would consider used.
unfortunately I already got the kit. It arrived yesterday
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Old 11-29-2018, 03:32 PM
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Good for you Rekim
You should really like the truck. The fit an finish is not that good but it handles really well. I remember that I had to do a lot of fiddling around to get the rear suspension to free up. Once that was sorted it was fine.
I really don't want to get rid of mine but I'm not a very good driver and think it would be better if I focus on one class. So I'm going to cut down my fleet and just do 1/10th scale buggy.
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