187LikesTLR SCTE 3.0 Thread
12-10-2017, 07:01 AM
#1696
Tech Fanatic
Ha, just when I said the body mount holes weren't damaged. Turns out racing rather than just practise is bad for body shell "health" ;D Took a few nasty tumbles making a long double, one of the rear body holes got torn badly. Although mostly because of the second set of holes - the section between the two holes cracked, leading to the issue. And my bad for not having reinforced the body around the holes, not sure why I didn't do it for my newer SCTs yet even though I did for the onroad cars and the ol' SC10 4x4. On the upside despite the cartwheeling and whatnot nothing in the car itself broke, biggest loss was a 4-40x1/2" screw from the steering link during practise the day before the race.
The race itself didn't go so well, especially for the 4WD. In 2WD I was 15th out of 18, but in 4WD dead last. I was barely faster with the SCTE than my SC5M, roughly 0,5-1 seconds per lap difference in average lap times (about 21-24 second averages between the two classes). Not even sure why. While the car could've probably used stiffer shock oil as I had the low grip outdoor setup still - even though the indoor track wasn't too grippy either - it drove quite well, but I kept messing it up constantly. In one qualification I was doing quite nicely for 9 laps as I got to drive in peace, averaging about 20 seconds, but then I caught up to some other cars and things started to go poorly for most of the remaining 6 laps. Overall I managed to do comparatively much better with the 2WD even amongst other traffic, despite the 4WD being easier to drive. Go figure
The race itself didn't go so well, especially for the 4WD. In 2WD I was 15th out of 18, but in 4WD dead last. I was barely faster with the SCTE than my SC5M, roughly 0,5-1 seconds per lap difference in average lap times (about 21-24 second averages between the two classes). Not even sure why. While the car could've probably used stiffer shock oil as I had the low grip outdoor setup still - even though the indoor track wasn't too grippy either - it drove quite well, but I kept messing it up constantly. In one qualification I was doing quite nicely for 9 laps as I got to drive in peace, averaging about 20 seconds, but then I caught up to some other cars and things started to go poorly for most of the remaining 6 laps. Overall I managed to do comparatively much better with the 2WD even amongst other traffic, despite the 4WD being easier to drive. Go figure
12-10-2017, 02:32 PM
#1697
In regards to steering servos for those of you racing regularly how much power does your servo output and what sort of transit time?
12-10-2017, 04:21 PM
#1698
Hitec HS-7955TG. One of the best for years. And if you ever switch to 1/8 scale stuff it will work fine for those also.
12-10-2017, 10:08 PM
#1699
Tech Master
iTrader: (66)
+1 for 7955. I have used it on 7.4v without issue. That helps speed. It is a little slow IMO, but its tough and they provide a good warranty and service here in USA.
The Hitec 7950 is a great unit and the specs for it are better than most.
However, if you have the money the newer brushless servos are better. Just hard to justify what they cost.
The Hitec 7950 is a great unit and the specs for it are better than most.
However, if you have the money the newer brushless servos are better. Just hard to justify what they cost.
12-11-2017, 11:48 AM
#1701
This may not be easy for everyone (tools are required) but I like to do it this way:
I put a piece of 2X4 (wood) in a vise that will support the body and use a [sharp] wood chisel and hammer to cut the areas to be vented. Gives very nice edges and takes very little time.
I put a piece of 2X4 (wood) in a vise that will support the body and use a [sharp] wood chisel and hammer to cut the areas to be vented. Gives very nice edges and takes very little time.
12-11-2017, 11:39 PM
#1702
Tech Master
iTrader: (66)
That's a good tip. New one for me. I could see that working good if you have a few of the different shape/size wood chisels on hand like the small curved ones I have used on a lathe. I guess you are laying the body part to be cut as flat as you can on the wood and work your way around? I like the idea. I'll try that next time.
12-12-2017, 06:38 AM
#1703
Tech Regular
Bradley Rippee's TLR Cup set-up
Frank, Casper, Bradley, if anyone could post Bradley Rippee's set-up from last weeks TLR Cup at Leisure Hours I would appreciate it. I need it for this weekend. 
Got it. Never mind. TLR drivers are great.
Got it. Never mind. TLR drivers are great.
Last edited by Roken; 12-12-2017 at 01:34 PM. Reason: Brad replied
12-12-2017, 08:40 PM
#1704
Tech Rookie
I can only guess without seeing the diff parts, but most likely the diff washers are wearing out and contributing to the leak. New seals and X-Ray diff washers will solve your problem 99% of the time. That one percent is proper assembly of the diff with new seals and lots of black graphite grease on seals and out drives.
You are welcome to send me pictures of your diff torn down with clean parts if you would like to get a better answer. However, I think if you read these 4 pages you will know what the problem is.
Oh, by the way. If you are racing weekly and practice days your diffs are past due for maintenance at the 3 month point. Fresh diff fluid and grease every 75-100 lipos is best. Those runs pass by fast. You can easily run 10-15 lipos a week, 40-75 runs a month.
You are welcome to send me pictures of your diff torn down with clean parts if you would like to get a better answer. However, I think if you read these 4 pages you will know what the problem is.
Oh, by the way. If you are racing weekly and practice days your diffs are past due for maintenance at the 3 month point. Fresh diff fluid and grease every 75-100 lipos is best. Those runs pass by fast. You can easily run 10-15 lipos a week, 40-75 runs a month.
12-13-2017, 06:34 PM
#1705
That's a good tip. New one for me. I could see that working good if you have a few of the different shape/size wood chisels on hand like the small curved ones I have used on a lathe. I guess you are laying the body part to be cut as flat as you can on the wood and work your way around? I like the idea. I'll try that next time.
12-14-2017, 10:11 AM
#1706
Tech Master
iTrader: (66)
Why Diffs Leak
The wear parts that you will notice first will be the Losi diff washers or shims near the seals and out drives. Metal particles from the washer cut the seals and increase wear on other parts as the small metal churns in diff fluid. The Losi washer gets thinner as it wears taking pressure off the seal allowing it to leak.
As the Losi washer gets thinner it also allows the out drive to wallow around more. I call it out drive or diff cup wobble. This also causes the seal to leak and can increase case wear because of excessive out drive wobble. The X-Ray washers are slightly larger, thicker and super hard. These X-Ray parts tighten up that slop slowing down the wear and last the life of the truck. Ultimately they help with wear, leaks and out drive wobble. It's the best thing you can do for your diffs and I have some with 1,000 runs to prove it.
12-14-2017, 06:00 PM
#1707
Tech Rookie
IMO It would be best to start with new washers and seals or your leaks may persist or start again in a short time. Kind of defeats the purpose of fixing it if you don't start with new parts knowing you already have a leak.
The wear parts that you will notice first will be the Losi diff washers or shims near the seals and out drives. Metal particles from the washer cut the seals and increase wear on other parts as the small metal churns in diff fluid. The Losi washer gets thinner as it wears taking pressure off the seal allowing it to leak.
As the Losi washer gets thinner it also allows the out drive to wallow around more. I call it out drive or diff cup wobble. This also causes the seal to leak and can increase case wear because of excessive out drive wobble. The X-Ray washers are slightly larger, thicker and super hard. These X-Ray parts tighten up that slop slowing down the wear and last the life of the truck. Ultimately they help with wear, leaks and out drive wobble. It's the best thing you can do for your diffs and I have some with 1,000 runs to prove it.
The wear parts that you will notice first will be the Losi diff washers or shims near the seals and out drives. Metal particles from the washer cut the seals and increase wear on other parts as the small metal churns in diff fluid. The Losi washer gets thinner as it wears taking pressure off the seal allowing it to leak.
As the Losi washer gets thinner it also allows the out drive to wallow around more. I call it out drive or diff cup wobble. This also causes the seal to leak and can increase case wear because of excessive out drive wobble. The X-Ray washers are slightly larger, thicker and super hard. These X-Ray parts tighten up that slop slowing down the wear and last the life of the truck. Ultimately they help with wear, leaks and out drive wobble. It's the best thing you can do for your diffs and I have some with 1,000 runs to prove it.
12-16-2017, 07:54 PM
#1708
Rear arms and camber Link’s stiff
So any info about keeping the camber links free or any replacement stuff i can buy to make my arms free.
Somewhere i seen machines hinge pins?
Or is everyone just drilling the arms ? Almost feels like i need to drill the plastic toe stands that go into blocks.
Somewhere i seen machines hinge pins?
Or is everyone just drilling the arms ? Almost feels like i need to drill the plastic toe stands that go into blocks.
12-16-2017, 10:32 PM
#1709
Tech Master
iTrader: (66)
SCTE A-Arm suspension binding Tight rod ends
Rear A-arms can be tight for couple of reasons. Mostly the problem is the arm is pinched between the holders once bolts are snug. Shave a little off the a arm until it can move ever so slightly front to rear when installed. Don't go too far. Might take a couple of race days and revisiting to get it perfect. Clean the pins, reem the holes in the A-arms and use some dry lube. A-arms should flop up or down under their own weight unassisted. Remove shocks to confirm. Once you do this it is likely you will notice some slop in the plastic insert. It is not the insert. It is because the rear pins are too short and do not fully engage the insert. Read about that in this thread. TLR SCTE 3.0 Thread
Camber rod ends are nice and tight on the 3.0 like they should be. To sloppy in years past. Squeeze them on the sides with pliers while mounted with ball. That stretches the hole a little. it will recover some of its shape, just go easy and use dry lube. Repeat as needed. After a few race days this will go away and the rod ends last a long time with very little slop.
Last edited by Thunder Trail; 12-17-2017 at 02:56 PM. Reason: Title
12-17-2017, 06:47 AM
#1710
Front A-arm pins should be fine as is. Just clean and lube. Reem them with proper tool if needed.
Rear A-arms can be tight for couple of reasons. Mostly the problem is the arm is pinched between the holders once bolts are snug. Shave a little off the a arm until it can move ever so slightly front to rear when installed. Don't go too far. Might take a couple of race days and revisiting to get it perfect. Clean the pins, reem the holes in the A-arms and use some dry lube. A-arms should flop up or down under there own weight unassisted. Remove shocks to confirm. Once you do this it is likely you will notice some slop in the plastic insert. It is not the insert. It is because the rear pins are too short and do not fully engage the insert. Read about that in this thread. TLR SCTE 3.0 Thread
Camber rod ends are nice and tight on the 3.0 like they should be. To sloppy in years past. Squeeze them on the sides with pliers while mounted with ball. That stretches the hole a little. it will recover some of its shape, just go easy and use dry lube. Repeat as needed. After a few race days this will go away and the rod ends last a long time with very little slop.
Rear A-arms can be tight for couple of reasons. Mostly the problem is the arm is pinched between the holders once bolts are snug. Shave a little off the a arm until it can move ever so slightly front to rear when installed. Don't go too far. Might take a couple of race days and revisiting to get it perfect. Clean the pins, reem the holes in the A-arms and use some dry lube. A-arms should flop up or down under there own weight unassisted. Remove shocks to confirm. Once you do this it is likely you will notice some slop in the plastic insert. It is not the insert. It is because the rear pins are too short and do not fully engage the insert. Read about that in this thread. TLR SCTE 3.0 Thread
Camber rod ends are nice and tight on the 3.0 like they should be. To sloppy in years past. Squeeze them on the sides with pliers while mounted with ball. That stretches the hole a little. it will recover some of its shape, just go easy and use dry lube. Repeat as needed. After a few race days this will go away and the rod ends last a long time with very little slop.
Thanks for info!