I bet you $100 you'd turn better lap times and be more consistent with a 13.5. Not to mention driveline parts would last twice as long. SCVRC is pretty small and they couldn't build a jump big enough that a wheeler with a 13.5 couldn't clear with ease.

Actually most of the 4wd racers there race with 6.5t motors

I've been there....what does that have to do with you being faster and more consistent with a 13.5? All you need to do is go to one of the big races like the JBRL and you'll see that the 13.5 wheelers are about the same speed as the full mod buggies. Keeping in mind that open 4 whl is at a minimum an expert class. Most guys running a big motor just can't handle it. A 13.5 wheeler is like a stock buggy with killer traction. You can stay on it all the time. You can't do that with a 6.5.

Casper is sponsored by TLR. What's he running in the JBRLs?

Dumb question: pulled the ball stud out of the rear hub last. Hobby shop only had the aluminum hubs in stock. Does the writing on the aluminum hubs go towards the front or back?

I run both e-scale and 1/10 indoors and even I follow that rule :D. I refuse to take my 1/10 out on a track with even a couple 1/8 buggies, I know how most of those guys drive :eek:

13.5 4wd is a blast to drive. That is what is popular at OCRC right now for 4wd buggy. Great class. Plenty of power and fun. 6.5 is what I use when I run modified although many guys run 5.5's.

Which 13.5 motor is popular there in ocrc? And what gearing arè they running?... Just curious.

Guys, i'm building my 22-4 2.0 atm and i noticed that the nut of the slipper dosent go through the lock on the thread. Do you know if i need glue or reverse the nut to avoid loosing it? Also, i build with the standard specs and i found the overall transmission is pretty tight.. i guess this is normal?

I am running a Tekin Gen 3 13.5 and have no issues with motor in the class. I would say Schuur speed are most popular as that is what the sell in the shop but have been extremely happy with the Gen 3 Tekin spec motors.

Nut about flush with the end of the thread is pretty normal and should not have issues.

mine as at least 2mm of grip and 4mm of loose. Is the shaft has an end longer on one side than the other or it dosen't matter?

You can reverse the nut, but you shouldn't need to. My slipper nut is usually about 50% engaged with the nylock.

So what are guys doing to the rear CVA's to get them free. I would like to finish building my kit and it's no way the car will be fun to drive with this type of binding. Made a call and they are on BO without an ETA.
I am pretty disappointed about that.

Horizon will send out replacements. I ran mine and they were free after a run or two.

I know they will, however they are on back order.

Mine were bound up pretty bad too. I kept switching barrels and pins until I found the combination with the least amount of bind. I also noticed that if I didn't crank the set screw down, they were more free. I used a ton of loc tite and barely snugged the set screw, but still made sure I couldn't push the pin out of the axle. After all the experimentation, I had much less bind than the first assembly, but there was still binding in the CVDs. However, after 3 or 4 practice packs, the CVDs broke in and were free. After that 4th practice pack, I pulled the set screw out, added fresh loc-tite and cranked it down and the CVDs were still free. Good to go :tire::tire::tire: