Have any of you guys ran a ball diff racing on carpet? How does it feel in the corners? And how do you have the diff set at?

Will know this thursday.

No but I am about to with a used T5M I bought since I can't find any gear diffs for sale right now. Just don't set the slipper too tight as it may burn up the diff.

It’s not a “may”. It’s a guarantee. I locked my diff down and slipper was set so it wouldn’t attempt a wheelie. Still ripped the diff a new one lol

On another note, 17.5.... I have made it last an entire day at the carpet track. But it was a purpose built lightweight setup. As above post said loose slipper allowed this to happen. But put a real motor in the car and it probably won’t make a whole day at the track, even with a loose slipper.

No. If the diff is assembled and adjusted properly, and the slipper is set reasonably well (slips before the diff), the diff will be fine. We've been running these diffs with very high power, on very high grip surfaces at heavier weights than today, for literally decades.

so are you saying a slipper eliminator is not a good idea when running a ball diff on a carpet track? running 17.5t btw.

BT said in an interview at the INS7 race that the new parts they have been working on since worlds should be available on the shelves in 4-6 weeks or so

It's fine for 17.5, not a ton of power. If you like to land jumps full-throttle then maybe stay with the slipper.

good to know thanks. So what diff settings should I start of with? Should I have it loose where it stops barking?

My assumption is that on the shock body, the thread for the cap and the thread for the spring collar are done in two steps and therefore they are not "indexed" to one another. The only workaround I can think of is to mark your 4 shocks and caps as A, B, C, D the first time you build them, before you make the notch in the collar. Or be prepared to play mix and match every time you service your shocks...

edit: actually I'm wrong, assuming the shock caps are all strictly identical (because they are molded) then it shouldn't make a difference. Are you using aluminum shock caps? I ran into that issue on my Serpent buggy with aluminum caps. The mounting hole in the caps were not ""indexed" relative to the threading inside the cap.

The AE ball diff is very free spinning when at its tightest practical setting. Because of this, I do not consider it and other modern ball diffs to be adjustable. I assemble per the instructions- tighten it (carefully) until the spring bottoms out, then back the screw out 1/8-1/4 turn.

Perception of durability notwithstanding, one of the reasons to run a gear diff on carpet is the added adjustability you get from changing fluid weights.

Unbreakable light weight parts
 

Is anyone using rcss cut gears and mip bi-metal diff plates (pin type)? Looking to loose some weight that parts don't break, Any other suggestion will be helpful. Thanks.

There are guys running ball diffs at our high grip carpet track no problem. A guy that wins consistently in mod buggy and mod truck runs them. Rule of thumb is to tighten down where you hold one wheel while spinning the other. It should make around 1 turn. I have no experience but that is what he told me. I can't argue with a guy that has been winning races for many years!

thanks. I will try this