New Team Durango DEX410V5 Thread
#406
Just my opinion but the only place you could really only use that kind of power would be on a very very large outdoor 1:8 track....and even then. I'm running the LRP X20 6.5 on a 1:8 track and it's a bullet. Properly geared for the track 5.5-6.5 is all you need. Hell, most of the guys I know would probably have lower lap times running a 10.5...........
in this case it should be what i want b because as I indicated above , i'm a basher using racing models, my terrain usualy very wide streets or desert plains..
#407
#408
Tech Legend
iTrader: (294)
personally I think for bashing for speed I still would go with a 6.5 for instance over a 4.5. Better gearing range and if you have issues you can come online and get some help more so than a 4.5 I think.
The buggy has a wide gearing range if you use certain spurs for some serious speed.
The buggy has a wide gearing range if you use certain spurs for some serious speed.
#409
personally I think for bashing for speed I still would go with a 6.5 for instance over a 4.5. Better gearing range and if you have issues you can come online and get some help more so than a 4.5 I think.
The buggy has a wide gearing range if you use certain spurs for some serious speed.
The buggy has a wide gearing range if you use certain spurs for some serious speed.
any certain spare parts that i should get and keep it close in handy ?
#410
Tech Legend
iTrader: (294)
buy the exotek rear wing mounts. I know its pricey, but that is one area that is weak on the car. You could JB weld the stock mounts as described in the thread. I am trying that first.
I would also pickup spare shock shafts and some spare (Intech-RC has them for cheap, look exactly the same and no part tree) shock ends.
Thats pretty much all i broke that I wouldn't call the usual suspects to buy (A-arms, etc)
A fan on the motor will also probably help for what you want to do.
oh, and buy the exotek 12mm hexes. The stock plastic ones suck.
I would also pickup spare shock shafts and some spare (Intech-RC has them for cheap, look exactly the same and no part tree) shock ends.
Thats pretty much all i broke that I wouldn't call the usual suspects to buy (A-arms, etc)
A fan on the motor will also probably help for what you want to do.
oh, and buy the exotek 12mm hexes. The stock plastic ones suck.
#411
buy the exotek rear wing mounts. I know its pricey, but that is one area that is weak on the car. You could JB weld the stock mounts as described in the thread. I am trying that first.
I would also pickup spare shock shafts and some spare (Intech-RC has them for cheap, look exactly the same and no part tree) shock ends.
Thats pretty much all i broke that I wouldn't call the usual suspects to buy (A-arms, etc)
A fan on the motor will also probably help for what you want to do.
oh, and buy the exotek 12mm hexes. The stock plastic ones suck.
I would also pickup spare shock shafts and some spare (Intech-RC has them for cheap, look exactly the same and no part tree) shock ends.
Thats pretty much all i broke that I wouldn't call the usual suspects to buy (A-arms, etc)
A fan on the motor will also probably help for what you want to do.
oh, and buy the exotek 12mm hexes. The stock plastic ones suck.
#413
Tech Addict
Cain, you mentioned in the other thread that certain servos have fitment issues in this buggy. I'm doing a full Team Orion setup in this car (13.5) to include the servo. Team Orion servos are actually Savox servos and I know they tend to be a little beefy. Being that it's getting outfitted as a SPEC car, I had already planned to run a shorty servo to lighten up the front end. I just want to clarify, it was in fact the thickness of the servo that caused issues and not the servos length. Correct?
You also mentioned that the car accepts a wide range of gearing options. I take it this means plenty of room to gear to the moon if need be. I know my B44.3 does not offer much as far as gearing for stock racing, this being the primary reason I started looking at a different brand for this project. So running TD's 69 or 72 machined spur with pinions ranging from 27-30 should not be an issue?
You also mentioned that the car accepts a wide range of gearing options. I take it this means plenty of room to gear to the moon if need be. I know my B44.3 does not offer much as far as gearing for stock racing, this being the primary reason I started looking at a different brand for this project. So running TD's 69 or 72 machined spur with pinions ranging from 27-30 should not be an issue?
#414
Tech Addict
Hi Alan,
I don't have the dex410v5, but the desc410v2 i have, does have the same front end and i do have a savox 1251 shorty servo in it, with no issues of fitment!
The length of any servo should not be a problem at all!
Hope that helps?
I don't have the dex410v5, but the desc410v2 i have, does have the same front end and i do have a savox 1251 shorty servo in it, with no issues of fitment!
The length of any servo should not be a problem at all!
Hope that helps?
Last edited by micholix; 11-04-2016 at 11:26 PM.
#415
Tech Addict
Great, thanks micho, I figured it wouldn't be an issue but since we have this great resource available it didn't hurt to ask given Cain's warning. I'm really looking forward to getting this car setup as I've never done a 13.5 wheeler before. My modified class 4wd's are just ballistic so this should be refreshing.
#416
Tech Legend
iTrader: (294)
Yes its the thickness of the servo that is the problem. I tried to use this servo:
Futaba S93732SV
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXFSGA
Dimensions: 1.6 x .83 x 1.46" (40.5 x 21 x 37.2mm)
I think you want a servo that is say 20mm in thickness.
As for gearing range, since the dex210F and dex410v5 are similar in that regard, you can run all kinds of spur gear sizes (it comes stock with 87T I believe). Also, you can run pretty large pinions, especially if you take off the little "lip" that is on the mount.
Futaba S93732SV
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXFSGA
Dimensions: 1.6 x .83 x 1.46" (40.5 x 21 x 37.2mm)
I think you want a servo that is say 20mm in thickness.
As for gearing range, since the dex210F and dex410v5 are similar in that regard, you can run all kinds of spur gear sizes (it comes stock with 87T I believe). Also, you can run pretty large pinions, especially if you take off the little "lip" that is on the mount.
#417
Tech Legend
iTrader: (294)
had a race session on carpet with the buggy. Need to do some tuning but the big thing I need to do is swap out the crappy shock shafts. Snapped another one.
Ran the buggy though in 13.5 mode and liked using the 81T spur for an FDR of about 6.5 . Very nice power delivery.
Ran the buggy though in 13.5 mode and liked using the 81T spur for an FDR of about 6.5 . Very nice power delivery.
#418
Allrite guys I raced this weekend and took third. 4wd buggy mod and 2wd buggy mod are the hardest classes to race in my area because there is a lot of fast guys in those classes. I feel more confident with this car and I am driving it harder every time and the car just ask for more. Since I am driving it harder I got a few questions since there is a big race coming up in two weeks...
Ive never broke a shock shaft before but I heard of some people breaking them. I searched around and they seem out if stock every where. Is there any other options to this?
I opted for the front universals. Is there any advantage or benefit or is just bling?
I am hoping for TD to keep supporting this car because so far is the best Durango car I have driven.
Ive never broke a shock shaft before but I heard of some people breaking them. I searched around and they seem out if stock every where. Is there any other options to this?
I opted for the front universals. Is there any advantage or benefit or is just bling?
I am hoping for TD to keep supporting this car because so far is the best Durango car I have driven.
#419
Tech Legend
iTrader: (294)
your best bet is to get the gold or gray titanium nitride shafts and run a limiter in them. These:
TD330257 - TITANIUM NITRIDE FRONT SHOCK SHAFT (44MM) BLACK (2pcs)
TD330258 - TITANIUM NITRIDE REAR SHOCK SHAFT (52MM) BLACK (2pcs)
TD330331 - TITANIUM NITRIDE FRONT SHOCK SHAFT (44MM) GOLD (2pcs)
TD330332 - TITANIUM NITRIDE REAR SHOCK SHAFT (52MM) GOLD (2pcs)
that is what hobbico sent me for the fronts when they went pop.
Not sure on the universals though in general I heard they are better for low traction?
I am crossing my fingers too on the vehicle. If durango does go 1/10 only, I hope they run with it. And I really like that it shares parts with the desc410v2
TD330257 - TITANIUM NITRIDE FRONT SHOCK SHAFT (44MM) BLACK (2pcs)
TD330258 - TITANIUM NITRIDE REAR SHOCK SHAFT (52MM) BLACK (2pcs)
TD330331 - TITANIUM NITRIDE FRONT SHOCK SHAFT (44MM) GOLD (2pcs)
TD330332 - TITANIUM NITRIDE REAR SHOCK SHAFT (52MM) GOLD (2pcs)
that is what hobbico sent me for the fronts when they went pop.
Not sure on the universals though in general I heard they are better for low traction?
I am crossing my fingers too on the vehicle. If durango does go 1/10 only, I hope they run with it. And I really like that it shares parts with the desc410v2
#420
Has anybody used the Lunsford titanium turnbuckle kit for the dex410? Turnbuckles haven't been a big issue (popped them a few times) but it will add some bling to my ride. Is the ball cups (Lunsford) more durable or less prone to pop? I definitely love this car and I am upgrading everything I can since I am planning on keeping it until is obsolete.