motor over heating help
12-30-2015, 09:29 PM
#1
motor over heating help
I had a reedy m3 with 32/70 gearing which is pretty much what everybody at the local track runs and it was fine never run hot never had an issue just kept getting passed by trinity motors so i bought a trinity 24k certified using it with a justtock esc put the same gearing back on came off after 6 minutes at 200 tried 31 32 and 33 pinion all came off just at about 200 34 pinion comes off at 175 or so but it has to no corner speed at all I hated it and 29 pinion comes off at 175 also but has no top speed at all every person I asked is running either 31 or 32 why is mine so hot its a 50 timing which the certifieds come with
12-31-2015, 07:34 AM
#2
I had a reedy m3 with 32/70 gearing which is pretty much what everybody at the local track runs and it was fine never run hot never had an issue just kept getting passed by trinity motors so i bought a trinity 24k certified using it with a justtock esc put the same gearing back on came off after 6 minutes at 200 tried 31 32 and 33 pinion all came off just at about 200 34 pinion comes off at 175 or so but it has to no corner speed at all I hated it and 29 pinion comes off at 175 also but has no top speed at all every person I asked is running either 31 or 32 why is mine so hot its a 50 timing which the certifieds come with
Worry about feel and speed. Also, what car is this in? What wind motor? I'm assuming 17.5, right? What size fan are you running? What size track? What transmission mods do you have? How heavy is the car?
You can not gear a car over the internet. It's just not possible.
12-31-2015, 09:09 AM
#4
12-31-2015, 09:18 AM
#5
Stop being so focused on temp.
Worry about feel and speed. Also, what car is this in? What wind motor? I'm assuming 17.5, right? What size fan are you running? What size track? What transmission mods do you have? How heavy is the car?
You can not gear a car over the internet. It's just not possible.
Worry about feel and speed. Also, what car is this in? What wind motor? I'm assuming 17.5, right? What size fan are you running? What size track? What transmission mods do you have? How heavy is the car?
You can not gear a car over the internet. It's just not possible.
12-31-2015, 09:22 AM
#6
I found that I needed to gear my short stacks down. I would go through the car to make sure there isn't anything dragging on the motor....a bad bearing or binding trans. I don't run a fan and I'm able to keep my Trinity 17.5s within a reasonable temp range when its 100+ out and the actual track temp is 125-130 degrees.
12-31-2015, 09:29 AM
#7
I found that I needed to gear my short stacks down. I would go through the car to make sure there isn't anything dragging on the motor....a bad bearing or binding trans. I don't run a fan and I'm able to keep my Trinity 17.5s within a reasonable temp range when its 100+ out and the actual track temp is 125-130 degrees.
12-31-2015, 10:22 AM
#8
Can you answer all of my questions I asked previously?
Also, what IR is your battery? What's the battery temp when hitting the track?
Also, what IR is your battery? What's the battery temp when hitting the track?
12-31-2015, 04:20 PM
#9
I tired to answer the best I could no fan I guess only the one that comes on the esc no tranny mods at all never temped the battery like I said only been doin it about a month never messed with anything I was in novice nothing mattered but got kicked out now just trying to keep up with stock guys without frying my motor in a week not sure what ir is the battery is a 4600 80c
01-01-2016, 07:39 AM
#10
Sounds like to me that you're not a top level driver, and straight speed is more then just horsepower in stock class. If you're not running anything lightweight and not as good of a driver, you won't keep up to the others plain and simple. Lightweight parts reduce temps, and more skill is more corner speed which translates to more straight speed.
01-01-2016, 08:58 AM
#11
Nonsense. Stop perpetuating this myth. A good car with stock parts, in good working order is every bit as fast as one with a bunch of farkles.
To the op, back off the timing 10* on your motor to protect it from excessive heat for the time being and check your driveline carefully for binding bearings. Also compare your temp gun's results with someone else's.
To the op, back off the timing 10* on your motor to protect it from excessive heat for the time being and check your driveline carefully for binding bearings. Also compare your temp gun's results with someone else's.
01-01-2016, 09:22 AM
#12
Nonsense. Stop perpetuating this myth. A good car with stock parts, in good working order is every bit as fast as one with a bunch of farkles.
To the op, back off the timing 10* on your motor to protect it from excessive heat for the time being and check your driveline carefully for binding bearings. Also compare your temp gun's results with someone else's.
To the op, back off the timing 10* on your motor to protect it from excessive heat for the time being and check your driveline carefully for binding bearings. Also compare your temp gun's results with someone else's.
You can't just copy someone else's gearing, you have to figure out your own. You can not setup a car or gear a car over the internet, only give basic suggestions.
Weight is included in gearing, as is driving style, corner speed, ESC firmware, soldier joints, battery temp, Battery voltage, battery IR. If you're concerned about heat, but also want speed, a fan is a bandaid. However, you need to figure out your other issues as to why it's running so hot. Every time you temp over 185 degrees, that rotor gets a little weaker.
01-01-2016, 01:37 PM
#13
The Duratrax small blue temp gun reads high until you change the "emmisivity %" to normal (100%?). Read the manual to change it, I don't remember how.
It'll be about 10-20 degrees higher than other temp guns until you change the setting.
It'll be about 10-20 degrees higher than other temp guns until you change the setting.
01-01-2016, 03:05 PM
#14
Sounds like to me that you're not a top level driver, and straight speed is more then just horsepower in stock class. If you're not running anything lightweight and not as good of a driver, you won't keep up to the others plain and simple. Lightweight parts reduce temps, and more skill is more corner speed which translates to more straight speed.
01-01-2016, 03:11 PM
#15
A lighter car produces less load. No other way to look at it. If weight didn't have an effect on load, then there would be no weight rule. Sorry bro, basic physics. F=MA => A=F/m If you don't believe this, then feel free to tell Sir Isaac Newton he's wrong. He's not here to argue with you.
You can't just copy someone else's gearing, you have to figure out your own. You can not setup a car or gear a car over the internet, only give basic suggestions.
Weight is included in gearing, as is driving style, corner speed, ESC firmware, soldier joints, battery temp, Battery voltage, battery IR. If you're concerned about heat, but also want speed, a fan is a bandaid. However, you need to figure out your other issues as to why it's running so hot. Every time you temp over 185 degrees, that rotor gets a little weaker.
You can't just copy someone else's gearing, you have to figure out your own. You can not setup a car or gear a car over the internet, only give basic suggestions.
Weight is included in gearing, as is driving style, corner speed, ESC firmware, soldier joints, battery temp, Battery voltage, battery IR. If you're concerned about heat, but also want speed, a fan is a bandaid. However, you need to figure out your other issues as to why it's running so hot. Every time you temp over 185 degrees, that rotor gets a little weaker.