wanabgts

iTrader: (2)

It's a option. Amain.Com has it in stock.

Zack

mental_raycer

For everyone having issues with the car 'squatting' too much or pulling the inside front tire off the deck, possibly go up in the centre diff oil, it makes the car a lot more balanced and easier to drive without sacrificing the good bits. Myself and a few others have been liking the 150k, we run on medium-low grip outdoor clay, super soft impacts all around if that gives an indication of the grip levels!

We found with 100k centre it puts too much power to the front wheels and makes it so weird and inconsistent things when you get on the power

mental_raycer

Some pics of my car, first one is straight after friday night racing, set new PB race times for myself with the best feeling setup Ive had so far thanks to Neil! second is freshly rebuilt to head off to Maitland for the NSW titles next weekend! the car is feeling the best it has been, I really can't wait to hit the track with it!





If anybody is confused, yes the rear top deck has been cut to increase flex at the rear, and the front lower arms have been moved forward 2mm, and I am using doubled-up spring collars to get the car to 22mm ride height (somehow unable to get ride height in the front without them) with AE Blue/White springs and TLR 40/27.5 oils. one thing is for sure, this car is a little heavy set! with the added weight and a full size servo mine is pushing 1900g! but i don't mind a heavier car, they feel more planted and easier to drive

wanabgts

iTrader: (2)

Thanks for input on that, ill try going up in the center and see what happens. What are you running for your front the rear oil stagger? My car has a tendency to oversteer a bit when i first grab the throttle, so im thinking i need to go down in the rear oil weight.

Zack

mental_raycer

7k front and 3k rear is what we've been running here, I tried 10k front and 5k rear, the car was very balanced but wasn't suited to the lower grip at my local, probably something I will run on a sugared or high grip surface in the future

packhntr

Good afternoon all! I inquired about this in the non-evo thread and got no reply, so I will ask here. I have a S104 with the hop up kit and due to many reasons, health, buying a house, etc, I have not had a chance to run the car. What is the feasability of converting the old car (with upgrade kit) to the EVO? I have gone through the manuals for both and many of the parts look identical, however some have new part numbers? Is this due to new material or is there actually dimensional difference? I am looking to begin running at my local indoor track this winter and am trying to get my ducks in a row. I can't afford an entire new car at the moment...so I am wondering about converting. Thanks!

rickster

hey pack... no need to totally try and upgrade.. the last car with the conversion is pretty darn good..... if you want the best bang for your $$ upgrades then get the new towers and shocks.. and arms.. the rest you can make work till you can get a new car.
it will make your car jump and feel much better... sure the rest would be nice but those are the wow what a difference parts.

there are just to many parts different to say you should get a ton of stuff... its just not cost effective... hop that helps.

packhntr

Thanks man! I have almost considered switching back to the original chassis as the track is quite tight and the front weight bias might help cornering.

wanabgts

iTrader: (2)

My mods im going to try out for this week on our high grip/fairly smooth astro track. As I mentioned before I had a terrible traction rolling problem, and the car was too hard to push. After inspecting the shocks again I realized that there is a fair amount of bypass around them in the bores, I think this is the reason it still feels so soft with 45wt in the front. So im going to go 55wt front/40wt rear this week out.

I also need springs more suited, The best springs I have been using on my other turf car were the Yatabe Arena Yokomo springs in purple. I changed out the shocks ends for Associated ones and used the 9mm offset cups so that I could get up to around 18mm ride height. The rear yatabe springs are a bit shorter as well, which helps some since the collars were almost maxed out at my 16mm ride height from last week. I will also be changing out the rear differential oil to 5k.



Zack

Raul Garcia

iTrader: (79)

I shipped my buggy off to RC Driver for studio and action shots... I'll be getting it back soon..

eragot

iTrader: (23)

Rickster, et. al.,
If you have the s104 performance package, don't you have the new arms? Combined with some xrings for the shocks, wouldn't you just need towers to get the wow! Effect?

StickyGeko

Hi guys,

Im new here, but have been browsing for some time.
We drive b5m's my son is 13 and doing really well and has been offered a place in an sworkz uk team so will be getting the new s104 evo very shortly.

Ive a few questions, we race on several surfaces

1) outdoor astro (wet and dry days) Bury Metro/Soutport
2) indoor really high grip tight corner track Ribble Valley RC Club
3) upcoming winter oople series is on a half gym floor with areas of high grip carpet - Bury/Chadderton

I was wondering which battery config would be best suited to the above? Ideally I dont want to be swapping it each week. Currently we have a bout 6 sets of saddles so initially thought saddle setup but is that the best way to go?

Can we get away keeping a standard oil set up with adding hard springs for the high grip indoor and then soften the springs for the bumpy astro tracks.... but then im stumped for the half and half chadderton/bury tracks

Kind Regards
Paul

rickster

raul... cool.. cant wait to see the article.

eric... no the new arms are actually a little different.. the material is different and even though they look similar they are different.. the shock mounting holes are different and there are small differences in other parts of them. So to have the correct geometry with the new towers and shocks you should use the new arms..

Hi Paul and welcome to the team.. you will meet some great guys over there on the team that can help for those specific tracks..
but for the batteries you will most likely want to run a shorty pack almost all the time.. I haven't found any conditions yet where the saddle pack worked better. You can mount your shorty battery in 2 positions.. a forward position which is really good for higher traction tracks and a back position which is good for looser tracks.
After you guys get the cars we would be happy to help with any questions to help fit the car to driving style.. good luck and congrats :-)

rickster

hey chris.... good luck to you and neil at the big race ...

Elis86

Getting my car today!

Heading over to the dealer right after work.

Shoppinglist so far.
Car
hw v3.1 esc
hw 6,5 motor
+4mm hexes
1 bag of shock limiters
Option toe block for the rear
couple of wheel sets and some slick tires
150k diff oil
15k oil

Not figured out yet!
Running a savöx 1267hv (with the positive directly solderd on +on the battery)
Or running a rebuild Futaba bls551

Springs (i can get a hold of sworkz springs) But i dont know what is included in the kit, and ricksters tip was ass red in front and white in the back.

The dealer has orderd AGA power shortys that will arrive in 2-3weeks.

Like little kid on christmas was the feeling i had when I woke up this morning