How long is your straight and do you think that 18t would be a good starting point or should I go up to 19t?

I run 18t 1900 everywhere with current limit around 40-50% I'm just used to the feel more than anything, would only go up to a 19t if I was just getting beat down the straight

Well I guess I'll just figure out what the people at my track are running.

I believe most run a 19t, but a lot do run the 18t including myself. I've even seen some run 17t. Start with 18, but keep the others on hand in case you feel you need more or less.

I run a 19t. I don't change it out based on the track.

Anyone experimented with lower rear diff fuild? 3000? I drove a buddies EB48.3 today and it was alot easier to drive than mine. One of the only differences was lighter rear diff fluid. I was going to change it over but I read the JQ setup book and it said it would have the opposite effect. Make the car harder to drive. I'm currently running 7-5-5.

yes, I have been running 3k and just put in 2k to try out. At the moment I 7/7/2 but have not been able to run it yet.
When I was running 3k I had 7/5/3. It seemed to work well, the only issue I had was on-power push. Of course there are many other set up adjustments to help.

Regarding pinions, I've been running 18t on the 1900kv motors on 4s everywhere. I've seen folks like Lutz also run 19t on tracks like DNC. It is more about throttle feel than the straight in most cases. On that same DNC track last year there were also successful team drivers running 17t pinions on the 1900kv motors because it made several of the jumps a lot easier for them to hit at the right speeds (to not overdo it). All 3 should work out fine for you, though 18t is where I would suggest starting with either the 1900 or the 2050 in the EB, and then go up if the track layout is flowing and temps are good, or you find it easier to handle the throttle that way.

Diff fluids tend to feel different based on the type of surface as well. Lower diff fluids tend to be easier to drive when a track is really loose and blown out and the car isn't leaning way too much, rewarding smooth drivers who don't want to break the wheels loose. Higher diff fluids tend to be easier to drive and more stable when the surface is more smooth or higher traction, and easier to drift with.

New paint by Mels Shells. super stoked to get it on the track at Motorama 2016. Bonus pic of the big brother.

http://i61.photobucket.com/albums/h5...psv8daqdcb.jpg
http://i61.photobucket.com/albums/h5...psttc2jlcb.jpg

speaking of diff fluids, what can one expect when keeping the same ratio but increasing the number? for example if I was running 7/7/3, what would the effect be if it was changed to 10/10/6? The ratio is the same but thicker.

More stability, pulls over small bumps and track imperfections better, basically makes the car easier to drive provided you have enough traction for the thicker diff oils. Down side to thicker diffs is that you lose a little rotation in the corners, but there are other ways to get that back.

Keeping the same ratio and going up or down on thickness depending on the traction can be a very useful change for adapting to traction levels without changing the feel of your car very much.

Anyone using any other shock springs other than Tekno? looking for a full kit of option springs...

Look on the first page of the EB48 thread there is a big chart of all compatible springs.

http://www.rctech.net/forum/electric...48-thread.html

I depends on traction and your driving style. If you are more of a "F1" style driver with low wheel spin, lower rear diff on lower traction will let the diff action work easier and let you rotate faster without the back end breaking loose, but if you are a drifter lower rear diff on low traction will cause you to diff out faster and wash out the back end. Where thicker rear would help driving with the back end drifting more stable of a slide.