tsair

iTrader: (3)

Does anyone else make long springs like the 54mm/72mm truck springs for the SC5M?

zeakemedia

iTrader: (95)

https://www.prolineracing.com/pro-li...-red-hard-kit/
I run the red front and yellow rear on my T5m. They're discontinued but still in stock.
Blake

denon

iTrader: (8)

Are these the rear hexes to use? Any other better options?

https://www.teamassociated.com/parts...1014-ASC71014-
ft_clamping_wheel_hexes_8_5mm/

tsair

iTrader: (3)

Cool, thanks for the link. Any ideas if the lengths front/rear are about the same?

Hasi

Sorry guys,

after reading much about your used wheels / rims in this thread and what the standard offset of the KMC wheels is (0 offset, for anyone searching too), I'm wondering which rims to get.

I'm running the black Asso KMC wheels (#91101) at the moment which have 0 offset and don't want to get more, but other rims.
Decided to get the Jconcepts Hazards to get matching colors with the yellow Asso rims on my B5 and B64D , but the Hazards for the SC5m (part #3344Y) are +3 offset.
To stay with the 0 offset I have now, I guess I would have to get the ones for the Losi SCT-E (part #3352Y), right?
Would that work?

tvih

From what I've read, the offset is a bit misleading. The SCTE wheels are, well, let's call them "true 0" offset for simplicity. Then there's the KMC wheels, which are not actually 0 by comparison, but a bit more. And then there's the +3 offsets which are wider still. On the SC5M you can use all three. On the SCTE on the other hand you can only use the "true 0" ones because the others will cause it to be too wide for many SCT class rules, as well as rub on the body.

For the SC5M technically the +3 ones would be the best because they make the car wider and more stable. Personally I have some KMC wheels that I bought for myself (originally for SC10) and some +3 ones that I got used. But as said, you can use whichever you wish, basically. At least when I tried on my SCTE wheels on the SC5M I didn't notice any binding or such... but mind you, I didn't actually drive with them on.

Hasi

Thank you very much for your thoughts and experience, much appreciated

My SC5m is already very stable, it's easy to catch when the rear slips in turns. It's more like it could use a little bit more steering, setup is still out of box on loose, hard clay.

I want to keep this so I looked for 0 offsets like the KMC were stated... hm...
A friend of mine got an SCTE; guess I'll try his rims in terms of binding etc.

Thanks again, I will report

denon

iTrader: (8)

Looking for some suggestions for a budget 17.5 motor for my son's sc5m. Has a speed passion pro 1.1 esc. Was looking at the speed passion 17.5R or maybe the Reedy 17.5 stock spec. Any other ideas? Just looking for something to get him into the class and keep it on the track

Wildcat1971

iTrader: (84)

https://www.rcjuice.com/motor-esc/br...red-motor.html


or

Totemic 17.5T

denon

iTrader: (8)

Perfect. Thanks!

tvih

My suggestion would be a Turnigy TrackStar V2 17.5t from Hobbyking. I have the 6.5t version on my SC5M and it works very nicely, and also getting the 17.5t for an onroad car.

Wildcat1971

iTrader: (84)

The totemic is nice, because SMC has pretty good customer support.

zeakemedia

iTrader: (95)

Pro-Line springs are just a little bit longer than AE truck springs.
Blake

tsair

iTrader: (3)

Thanks for the pic, much appreciated!

tvih

Notice anything "unusual"?

Finally decided to try installing the Pro-Line cap mounts. To hopefully minimize loss of structucal strength of the body posts caused by the drilling, I applied a thick layer of very strong (240kg/mē tensile strength) epoxy to the underside of the "disc" to thicken the joining of the disc to the post. I figured thickening the post walls needed to be done and this was the simplest method of doing so that I could think off the bat, while hopefully being strong enough to make a difference.

Time will tell if it'll hold up in use. I probably should've tried to do an ever so slight tilt to screw hole to better conform to the body shape, but to be safe I tried to drill straight. Not succeeding perfectly I suppose, but it is usable.

I did order a new cap set today, but since I wanted to see if it works right away I stole the set screws from the SC10 for the time being.

Also the gear diff arrived today, assembled it but haven't installed it yet - a task for another day, I think.