UrabusDenis

I'll measure the battery tray when I get home tonight and write it here, although I'm 99% sure all commercially available hardcase 4S packs fit without any modifications (except the newer Hobbyking ones, as I said earlier)

UrabusDenis

djbxp, the battery tray is 145 mm long and 53 mm wide

djbxp

Thank you very much my friend. That's really helpful since i'm out of home.

revo61

iTrader: (18)

What is the diff setup everyone is running and what brand oil? I am running 12500/8000/3000 VP Pro Racing oil.

hpiaddict

iTrader: (17)

I am currently running 10 7 3 TLR oils.

the wrench

iTrader: (3)

ahhhh i was just having a bit of fun... if you look at the pic he has the yellow based ecar...

i still run my converted wide chassis ecar, you can get the yellow shocks to work well, i havent really felt a difference between the 16mm white shocks and the 15mm yellow shocks... never had an issue with bottoming out or chassis slap with my conversion...

it helps to run the shock shafts in a drill with some metal polish to really make them smooth and some oring grease like green slime as you assemble

running kyosho orange springs on my ecar's... blues on the nitro.... plush and pretty good everywhere

Kyosho Kid

iTrader: (12)

current diff set up 10/7/5 JQ oils.

I felt an immediate difference going from 15 to 16. i loved the 16s. Landed like a cat!

Keith B

Two Thumbs Up

djbxp

Is it extremely recommended to run sensored motor / ESC ?
some combos like Mamba Monster offer "waterproof" esc and motor but NOT sensored anymore. Is it much difference on the driving? Is it worth to go waterproof for driving on dusty conditions?

core_zero

On 1/8 scale electronics it's not a huge difference, but sensored setup offers much better low speed startup / motor response, a little faster breaking <-> acceleration transition and a tiny bit better efficiency.

Since the price difference is small (about 10-20USD) I always go sensored for racing applications. I (and may of my friends) regularly race non waterproof combos on very dusty tracks and nobody has any problems. Personally if you don't plan to drive during rain or through water puddles there is no need for waterproof electronics.

PS. there is no waterproof electronics, It would be much better to call it splash proof!
ESC's can really be waterproof, but fans on them aren't.
Brushless motors are not waterproof, that it's if they are running in non-sensored mode they can run underwater (non conductive kind like rain or lake water, not seawater) but bearings will be destroyed very quickly (water washes out lubrication) and rust will start to appear.
Batteries are EXTREMELY DANGEROUS to run underwater. Although the cells should be sealed there is no guarantee that the seal if perfect. Not to mention what will happen with a LiPo if water causes a short-circuit!

Running any RC car in rain or over water is purely for show! You will very quickly destroy your bearings, have major rust problems, destroy your electronics/battery. Look on youtube for failed RC aquaplaning attempts and consequences...

hpiaddict

iTrader: (17)

sensored give a smoother feel on lower RPMs thus its preferred when racing. As Core_Zero said. Waterproof is only splash proof. But it is snow proof as long as you clean the snow out when your done with a run!

djbxp

Thank you guys for the input.
What is considered a safe C rating for the batteries to get?
REDS 1900KV didn't publish AMP specs or power... how to calculate?
under same specs is TEKIN RX8, and seems that is drawing 90A under acceleration and 125A under heavy load / braking. So a 5000mAh battery on 25-30C will be fine ? (5000X25=125).

What's your experience what that ?

hpiaddict

iTrader: (17)

I normally run 60C batteries in mine.

http://www.smc-racing.net/index.php?...product_id=256

Kyosho Kid

iTrader: (12)

50-80c. I used to run 35c but it lacked punch.

hpiaddict

iTrader: (17)

I have not seen it posted yet but the WE E-car setup sheets are available at http://eu.jqracing.com/files/PDFs/JQ...V1.0-blanc.pdf