kempower2000

If you use a certain tire that needs to be scuffed, just take out your dremel with a sand drum, 30seconds later you are done.

Antimullet

iTrader: (65)

I just built mine with the YZ2 front aluminum and YZ2 rear aluminum hangars (and pills). Like was mentioned previously you will have a 2mm gap between the hangar and the stock yz4 ballstud mount. I looked at my stock plastic YZ2 ballstud mount and it is actually a little thicker horizontally. So I used the YZ2 ballstud hangar plus the YZ4 1mm plastic spacer it comes with along with the YZ2 option steel RR hangar and that combination fits perfect.
The only thing though, is that the swaybar retainers (little plastic things) on the YZ2 and YZ4 are different. I'm going. No away bars right now for a small-medium indoor clay track.

Norse

iTrader: (43)

Hey fellas, just to let you all know I compared the YZ4 300SRR (rear-rear hanger)I purchased with a YZ2 rear-rear hanger and they look to be the exact same in every way.
The only difference being the aluminum shim that comes with the YZ4 300SRR.
Thus if your running the YZ2 rear-rear hanger either order the aluminum shim or anyone could easily make the part.

Best

Norse

iTrader: (43)

+1 on Kpowers suggestion for pre scuffing tires.

John Myall

Second time out with mine today, wet, slippy astro turf track, quite tight, technical & bumpy.

Car was pretty good with the lipo across the car, in the middle position, although through the bumpy sections, it wasn't quite settled.

Moved the lipo to be lengthways, night & day better. Jumped better, turned in better & went over the bumpy sections as if they were smooth. Knocked 0.3 off my previous best lap without changing anything else.

For the last race, I moved the rear shocks to the forward position, knocked another 0.4 of the best lap time, but it was harder to drive, especially coming out of the slippery corners, just didn't have the same amount of traction as before. Definitely the way to go when you have grip.

Norse

iTrader: (43)

What weight front and rear diff oil weights are people liking for lower bite loose tracks?

5K front 3k rear? or 7K front 5K?

Thanks you for sharing thoughts/experience

trf415msx

iTrader: (24)

Anyone have a setup for clay high bite indoor track to share

HSV427

iTrader: (30)

These arms breaking is getting real old real quick, this buggy cant handle a large out door track, we have a set off tripples which is fairly large, l jumped it car landed perfect but did flat land and still broke a front arm, now i dont know if it was cracked from an earlier jump or not but either way its not on, its so disappointing to have a $1500 shelf queen but until yokomo fix the arms im not going to waist my time. Time to go back to my bullet proof XRAY xb4.

the incubus

iTrader: (17)

HSV427, this was an issue with Durango arms a couple years back.

A quick remedy to make them less brittle is to boil them in water for about 4 minutes to change up the molecular structure of the plastics. This makes them a tad more flexible and therefore a bit less prone to breaking.

On my 410 I went through 6 front arms in a single weekend so I feel your pain. It's so not fun to spend 15 minutes tearing down and rebuilding your car only to have the same part fail a handful of laps in for no apparent reason. I get the feeling the YZ-4's issue is also similar in that it's likely a tad heavier than most wheelers which contributes to the issue. Lightening up the car a tad will help.

rkhess

iTrader: (54)

boiled mine for 30min definitely helped took a few tumbles no breakage .....


My car is really really good right now loving it actually

madmikepags

iTrader: (5)

So bummed i haven't been able to run mine yet, but this arm breakage info is very upsetting to me. Come to think of it on my Bmax I had the same arms on for a while and after a crash off a BIG jump I broke an arm I replaced it and proceeded to break 3 more of the same arm quite quickly? I did notice air bubbles in those broken arms???

Norse

iTrader: (43)

I would imagine Yokomo will address and thus fix the front a-arm issue. Serpent's fairly recently released SRX4 had issues with front a-arms breaking, thus Serpent addressed the issue quickly and released new front a-arms.

As a couple of the very knowledgable gents above advised "to boil the front a arms " which is a proven method to help increase strength and flexibility.

Agree it is disappointing having a-arm issues, however if that is the only issue that the YZ4 presents its quite minor and should be fairly simple for Yok to fix.

BloodClod

iTrader: (7)

3 new YZ-4s had their trial by fire at their first local race last weekend. Weather has prevented any testing so the cars basically raced straight out of the box. They handled very well and did not suffer any breakage despite the typical race crashes - all cars ran flawlessly.

We found the cars setup with shorty packs to weigh in rather light though - fully loaded and ready to go at 1650g. Weighing in the cars in stock configuration they had the least rear-weight bias of all the 4wds we tested so we had expected them to have a ton of steering and have issues holding the rear on our loose dirt track - but the car was incredibly balanced and a joy to drive.

Really looking forward to a bit more setup on this car as soon as weather permits.

Piles

Im more concerned about the rear wishbones. I expect to break fronts when I get it wrong but I've broken 3 rears in as many meetings. The first was an obvious break after cartwheeling down a straight, but the other two were flawless landings after a small lift. And, yes there were bubbles. If the front wishbone issue is being looked into, I hope the rears will to.

Norse

iTrader: (43)

Nice to hear! What weight oils did you all run in your front and rear diffs?