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Yokomo YZ-2

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Old 11-11-2021, 01:35 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech ForumsThread Wiki: Yokomo YZ-2
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Last edit by: lexusbest
Welcome to the YZ2 Wiki!


Features for the lastest specification YZ-2DTM3.1
  • Long specification for dirt Main chassis Inheriting the chassis cut of dirt specification, it is longer with the same wheelbase as CAL3.
  • Aluminum front suspension mount.
  • Z2-DTM2B F2 body.
  • JConcepts ASTRO High Clearance 7inch Wing.
Features for the lastest specification YZ-2CAL3.1
  • Long specification main chassis for carpets. Long wheelbase that enables even higher speeds.
  • Steel front suspension mount.
  • Z2-DTMBL S2 Lightweight body.
  • Z2-CAL2W LMR Wing.
Common features for the lastest specification YZ-2DTM3.1 / YZ-2CAL3.1
  • The conventional position and the position of the suspension arm pin 1 mm higher can be selected on the front and back of the front suspension mount.
  • Bulkhead integrated side plate with increased rigidity.
  • The kingpin position has been changed with the new steering hub carrier, the axle position has been lengthened by 1 mm, and a steering stopper has also been added.
  • Battery holder that is easy to adjust according to the height of the battery.
  • Separate the rear mount base and upper arm holder to increase the flex around the rear and improve traction.
  • Z2-018-5 5-hole shock mounting specification Rear shock tower.
  • S4-S1S 3.0mm shaft specification front shock.
  • S4-S1M 3.0mm shaft specification rear short shock.
  • S4-008R5B L5 / LD Rear suspension arm (Φ3.5 pin).
  • Z2-01069 Rear universal shaft (69mm bone).

Setup Sheets can be found here

DT CA DTM parts comparison

YZ2T Tranny Conversion List

YOKZ2-300RFT
YOKZ2-302CT
YOKZ2-302T
YOKZ2-304T
YOKZ2-503I
YOKZ2-0023

CAL3 manual
DTM3 manual



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Old 03-29-2015, 07:44 PM
  #871  
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Originally Posted by pumpkinfish
Associated White all four corners
Thanks
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Old 03-30-2015, 09:23 PM
  #872  
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http://www.rctech.net/forum/r-c-item...yz-extras.html



It's been fun but it's gotta go
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Old 03-31-2015, 05:10 AM
  #873  
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Went to wrl final this past weekend in Columbus ohio. First runs of the car and I have to say I'm very impressed with its ability to carve the corners like no other. Took tq and win in stock and made the main in mod. Overall in mod car lacked a bit of consistent rear grip throughout the corner. But it was good being the first runs. In stock car was amazing. Half a second clear of anyone else's fast laps. Just brilliant. No hopups no pucks. Just motor and gearing change for stock.
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Old 03-31-2015, 06:37 AM
  #874  
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Ready to run, my yz2 is 1460 grams! I added 3 7g weights under the tranny. Itching to get it out on the track.
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Old 03-31-2015, 07:03 AM
  #875  
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For mod, try 3.5 deg rear toe
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Old 03-31-2015, 09:18 AM
  #876  
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No 3.5 when dust starts to form tends to over exaggerate the looseness of a car. It's good on wet clay but with dust not the way
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Old 03-31-2015, 02:29 PM
  #877  
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I have a quick question... I built my YZ-2 and while doing so the front upper arm mount the goes into the front lower suspension mount was SUPER tight going into the holes... I pressed it in (all by hand, no vice or anything ) and got it pretty stuck, so I had to turn the chassis over and push on it really hard to pop it out of the lower mount. I held it in my hands the whole time, never put it into any vice to hold it or anything...

Could I have possibly bent the chassis or the upper arm mount? The chassis flexed a bit (like barely), but maybe it is just my OCD worrying about it... LOL

I guess I am asking would it be possible to bend the chassis or arm mount by hand? How strong is aluminum?

I ended up using a very fine sand paper to sand down the nipples of the upper arm mount ever so slightly so that it just goes right into the lower arm mount and sits flush.

Thanks!

Last edited by sstriano; 03-31-2015 at 02:47 PM.
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Old 03-31-2015, 02:48 PM
  #878  
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Originally Posted by sstriano
I have a quick question... I built my YZ-2 and while doing so the front upper arm mount the goes into the front lower suspension mount was SUPER tight going into the holes... I pressed it in (all by hand, no vice or anything ) and got it pretty stuck, so I had to turn the chassis over and push on it really hard to pop it out of the lower mount. I held it in my hands the whole time, never put it into any vice to hold it or anything...

Could I have possibly bent the chassis or the upper arm mount? The chassis flexed a bit, but maybe it is just my OCD worrying about it... LOL

I ended up using a very fine sand paper to sand down the nipples of the upper arm mount ever so slightly so that it just goes right into the lower arm mount and sits flush.

Thanks!
A few people encountered this as well. It looks like the anodizing was a little too thick on that part. They also lightly sanded the black anodizing like you. You don't have anything to worry about.
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Old 03-31-2015, 02:54 PM
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Originally Posted by Racing4Evo
A few people encountered this as well. It looks like the anodizing was a little too thick on that part. They also lightly sanded the black anodizing like you. You don't have anything to worry about.
So I didn't bend my chassis pushing it back out?

Thanks
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Old 03-31-2015, 03:55 PM
  #880  
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Anybody have a pair they can sell?

http://www.amain.com/rc-cars/yokomo-...-415sa/p417700

Last edited by jmoneym; 04-15-2015 at 03:37 PM.
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Old 03-31-2015, 08:37 PM
  #881  
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Originally Posted by jmoneym
Use a spare piece of graphite or fiberglass. Drill then cut out with dremmel
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Old 04-01-2015, 07:36 AM
  #882  
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Originally Posted by teeforb
What springs are you guys using for med bite indoor clay track?
I was running losi low freq orange and green on the front and hi-freq whites on the rear
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Old 04-01-2015, 08:20 AM
  #883  
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Originally Posted by pumpkinfish
Hey guys, I have been running STLNLST's setup and it has been great so far until today. When ever I was going around the 180 turns, my inside rear wheel was lifting. I tried going to the rear inside tower hole and it was better, but it was still lifting. Any ideas what I can do?
I would try lowering rear roll center or raising the roll center of the front
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Old 04-01-2015, 12:52 PM
  #884  
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Originally Posted by 303slowdown
I bought the 30 deg front suspension mount and on mibosport it says it's for high traction, why would you want more kick up in high traction ? Thanks
Anyone able to help me out with this ? Is it cause the added kick up shortens the wheel base slightly when the suspension compresses in the corner ?
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Old 04-01-2015, 02:47 PM
  #885  
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Originally Posted by 303slowdown
Anyone able to help me out with this ? Is it cause the added kick up shortens the wheel base slightly when the suspension compresses in the corner ?
This is from The Diggity Designs tuning guide:

+ Adding caster to your car will give it less aggressive
steering entering corners but will give it more steering mid
cornering and exiting corners. It will also keep your car more
stable in bumpier conditions and straight lines. NOTE: you
will always have more steering with more caster especially
when running on high traction tracks and or soft tires.

- Running your kit with less caster will give it more
aggressive steering entering corners but will give it less
steering mid cornering and exiting corners. It will make your
car less stable in straight lines and can be used to take
traction away on high traction tracks.
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