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Ofna Hyper SSe RTR Electric 1/8??

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Old 07-07-2014, 12:32 PM
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i have had no issues at all with any part of the car. it has been raced hard. maybe that front arm thing is a hit or miss issue?
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Old 07-07-2014, 08:20 PM
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Originally Posted by raz14
  • Check for loose screws
  • Blue loctite on at least the pinion set screw
  • Check the turnbuckle connection to the front upper arms and consider CA glue there.

I haven't opened up the shocks yet or checked the diff oil.
Thanks for the reply, I did check for loose screws all checked out. Pinion set screw, sorry is located where? Plus anything else that I should loc-tite. Thanks again
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Old 07-07-2014, 09:55 PM
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Originally Posted by Troy W
Thanks for the reply, I did check for loose screws all checked out. Pinion set screw, sorry is located where? Plus anything else that I should loc-tite. Thanks again
The pinion set screw is located at the pinion gear. It fixes the gear in place along the motor shaft. I don't have anything else loctited at this point.
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Old 07-08-2014, 10:25 AM
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Great, thanks
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Old 07-28-2014, 06:33 PM
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Any ideas on keeping the motor cool for longer?

Seems to be lots of heatsink and fan solutions there but would like to see/hear how other SSe owners are keeping temps at safe levels. Thx.
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Old 09-17-2014, 03:14 PM
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It shouldn't be getting anywhere near unsafe operating temps if running stock gear with 4s
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Old 10-16-2014, 07:12 PM
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Just bought this RTR while living in Michigan, my RC8's will be resting for at least 1 year.... the car is pretty solid and easy handling, I've just broke the rear brace after a bad landing from a big triple and replaced by RC8T aluminum front brace.
I've just one remark, the aka wheels don't fit perfectly, you need to limit the steering or cut a little the beads inside of the front wheels.
My setup for clay is:
Aka super soft handlebar
Diff 5-5-5
Shocks w/ stock springs and 45wt ae
Frt Camber 1.5
Rear Camber 2.0
....
Let's see the next steps...

In summary, for a RTR car it is a great deal, the performance is not so far from my RC8Be or RC8.2e w/ MMM 2200kv 4s setup.

Last edited by asirolli; 10-16-2014 at 09:10 PM. Reason: add
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Old 10-25-2014, 08:55 AM
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Default loose screws

Add thread lock to both side of the motor screws! My motor completely disassembled after 10 batteries... I had similar issues with castle motors in the past.
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Old 11-02-2014, 09:59 PM
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Hi, I am interested in purchasing this car because I am on a tight budget and from what I have being reading on this forum the car promise to behave like a champ on the track. But I have two questions and I was wondering if someone can help me out
1. Can the ESC settings be modified even that the manual says that will void the guarantee.
2. Are there any important upgrades that need to be done to this car, like the rear wheels dogbones.
3. Are there any 4S battery recommended for this kit.
4. Which model to buy the Blue Body or the Orange Body.

Thank you very much for all the help and support.
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Old 11-03-2014, 07:03 AM
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Originally Posted by moisesing
Hi, I am interested in purchasing this car because I am on a tight budget and from what I have being reading on this forum the car promise to behave like a champ on the track. But I have two questions and I was wondering if someone can help me out
1. Can the ESC settings be modified even that the manual says that will void the guarantee.
2. Are there any important upgrades that need to be done to this car, like the rear wheels dogbones.
3. Are there any 4S battery recommended for this kit.
4. Which model to buy the Blue Body or the Orange Body.

Thank you very much for all the help and support.

1. Yes, it is a Xerun ESC you can change using the lights setup or box card.
2. I'd say the Chassis Rear Brace, buy the Buggy RC8 rear link ~6U$ at towerhobbies. Good set of tire if you want to go to the track. Diff Oil, you can start w/ 5k/5k/5k and Shock Oil Associated 45wt or 50wt.
3. 4S (Hobbyking Hardcases) or Reedy Wolf. 4S both fits ok.
4. It comes with both bodies, the blue with the trasnparent windows and the orange with adhesives on the windows.

5. The First Upgrade costs only $5 bucks and it is the most important. Buy a threadlock and apply it on all chassis screws and in the motor front and rear screws.

Regards,
Anderson
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Old 11-03-2014, 09:35 AM
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Thanks for the inputs I have two more questions:

1. Do you know which program card from Hobbywing is the one required for this ESC
2. Do you have the part number from the RC8 rear link.



Originally Posted by asirolli
1. Yes, it is a Xerun ESC you can change using the lights setup or box card.
2. I'd say the Chassis Rear Brace, buy the Buggy RC8 rear link ~6U$ at towerhobbies. Good set of tire if you want to go to the track. Diff Oil, you can start w/ 5k/5k/5k and Shock Oil Associated 45wt or 50wt.
3. 4S (Hobbyking Hardcases) or Reedy Wolf. 4S both fits ok.
4. It comes with both bodies, the blue with the trasnparent windows and the orange with adhesives on the windows.

5. The First Upgrade costs only $5 bucks and it is the most important. Buy a threadlock and apply it on all chassis screws and in the motor front and rear screws.

Regards,
Anderson
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Old 11-03-2014, 07:05 PM
  #87  
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Originally Posted by moisesing
Thanks for the inputs I have two more questions:

1. Do you know which program card from Hobbywing is the one required for this ESC
2. Do you have the part number from the RC8 rear link.
Both hobbywing program cards will work, the cheaper w/ esc interface only (8$) or the one digital with pc/usb interface (25$+).

The rear brace is: http://www.amain.com/Team-Associated...ear-RC8/p17013

Regards,
Anderson
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Old 12-08-2014, 05:29 PM
  #88  
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Hey guys, I am on a tight buget and am looking into this buggy. I've raced 1/10 2wd buggy for a while and wanted something a little different and had a question about this buggy.

What mm are the wheel nuts i.e. 12mm hexes. I haven't been able to find this information anywhere.

Thanks for the help.
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Old 12-09-2014, 02:28 AM
  #89  
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Originally Posted by asirolli
Just bought this RTR while living in Michigan, my RC8's will be resting for at least 1 year.... the car is pretty solid and easy handling, I've just broke the rear brace after a bad landing from a big triple and replaced by RC8T aluminum front brace.
I've just one remark, the aka wheels don't fit perfectly, you need to limit the steering or cut a little the beads inside of the front wheels.
My setup for clay is:
Aka super soft handlebar
Diff 5-5-5
Shocks w/ stock springs and 45wt ae
Frt Camber 1.5
Rear Camber 2.0
....
Let's see the next steps...

In summary, for a RTR car it is a great deal, the performance is not so far from my RC8Be or RC8.2e w/ MMM 2200kv 4s setup.
just a little tip for those AKA wheels... look into the Kyosho hockey stick style rod ends ... thats what I run on my ofna truggy ,
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Old 12-09-2014, 02:58 AM
  #90  
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KYOSIS 053 6.8mm
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