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Old 03-24-2014, 10:51 AM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by fyrman41
yes Captain........Very little diff lube? I heard the opposite. I heard very little on diff rings and load up the diff balls in the holes and around where the outdrives contact diff rings........
Here's the TLR diff build:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JkJwc_lZbyU

As for the amount, watch the videos.

Originally Posted by thecaptain
Ok one more question how often would you replace the balls, and how do you sand your rings?
I sand the rings till they are flat before first assembling the diff. After that, I lightly sand at each rebuild (high grit sand paper), and replace diff balls whenever the diffs begin to "feel" like they need it. Hard to explain in words, but you kind of know when the balls aren't working properly.

As for how to sand diff rings, the easiest way to to buy Bfast, the harder way is to use and outdrive + sand paper. Try searching "rc diff sanding" and see what articles come up.

Last edited by RCBuddha; 03-24-2014 at 11:42 AM.
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Old 03-24-2014, 11:18 AM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by thecaptain
Ok one more question how often would you replace the balls, and how do you sand your rings?
To add, tungsten and ceramic (more so..) diff balls can last a very long time because they are harder than the rings. I rarely replace balls, just rings after a few refreshes. I don't even know how old the tungsten balls in some of my cars are.
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Old 03-24-2014, 11:50 AM
  #18  
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Ceramic offer better performance and they will not ever wear or flat spot like the steel or carbide.

Just one bark from your diff and the steel will be flat spotted and need replacement.

Advise to replace the carbides for ceramic & use the steel or kit thrust for your best performance & durability.

Instead ?

Read up on breaking in & setting the diff.
Also do same for slipper adjustment.

Tip
Use Ae clear silicon grease
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Old 03-24-2014, 11:54 AM
  #19  
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I find that the Carbide balls are easier all around. The cermamics are harder to adjust and do not last as long. Running stock, I only run stock, I can go several months on a diff. I rebuild as neccessary even if its a week or day later. Kyosho supplies tungsten with their kits and they last forever.

I never reuse anything in the diff. If you are going to rebuild it its crazy to not just replace everything....if the thing is chirping like a canary are you really going to reuse the diff balls?? The only thing that I have been ok reusuing are the Avid caged thrust bearings. Those seem to hold up pretty good.

This is just my opinion. There are probably several ways to do all this that would work. To each his own.
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Old 03-24-2014, 12:17 PM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by QDRHRSE
There are probably several ways to do all this that would work. To each his own.
+1

I wish more people would realize this.

I like ceramic diff and thrust balls myself.

Here's a diff building by one of the Tamiya factory drivers:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YOMu6Fu3orI
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Old 03-24-2014, 02:30 PM
  #21  
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To each their own.
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Old 03-24-2014, 02:31 PM
  #22  
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You can even get a diff with all steel balls working quite nicely if you take your time on it.
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Old 03-24-2014, 07:14 PM
  #23  
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Been using the same set of ceramic diff balls for 2 years now.

every 8 weeks I replace the outdrives due to being hobbed out from wear .
Diff is always smooth and in good condition the life of the drives.

Just try to convince me carbide is better.lol
Personally don't even know anyone that does not use ceramic.

They do not flat spot ever and stay round & smooth.
Carbides??? Not !!

Adjust the same as carbide , no differences.
Remember to break in ..

its your money , after you replace a whole bunch of carbides add it up and see ceramic is your best deal.
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Old 03-25-2014, 06:49 PM
  #24  
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nobody is trying to push their ideas on you, but carbide has aways been my personal preference, but maybe i will have to try ceramic next.
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Old 03-25-2014, 06:57 PM
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I would check like every 10 runs and change it when you see the balls wearing down
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Old 03-25-2014, 07:03 PM
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Cherry , talk to anyone who races 1/12 ............. You cannot get ceramics loose enough to have good feel on the track , without it slipping like mad. Carbides can be run looser than ceramics. And steel even looser yet. This is a fact, not simply an opinion. Ceramics are harder and have a less pourus surface area than carbides or steel . I wish this weren't the case , the weight savings from steel to ceramic can be measured as a % in a 1/12 pan car.
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Old 03-25-2014, 07:11 PM
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haha with ceramics it would turn into a drift pan car.

(not really)
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Old 03-25-2014, 11:13 PM
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I agree with cherry on this. I've ran both for extended periods of time. The carbide do have slighty better adjustability but the ceramics last far longer and are smoother.
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Old 03-26-2014, 02:02 AM
  #29  
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I personally use Adamantium diff balls and vibranium thrust balls!
I know a guy who knows a guy...

But seriously, I use Ceramic Diff balls and Ceramic thrust balls, I have a source and buy in bulk... Just got an Avid caged thrust (ceramic) and I am impressed so far. Allows me to run a bit tighter diff without worrying about failure!

I also do not sand my diff rings!
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