Some pics

Kind of going of Panda's idea(glueing old/broken Allen driver to damaged screw),could I solder a driver to screw,then try to back out?

Just an update;
Went ahead and used dremel to cut small groove in screw then back out with flat head(with very little damage to chassis)
Per one of the cool and knowledgeable guys from lhs (superior hobbies), after I removed one screw I was able to spin the rear bulkhead itself instead of trying to spin screw. Sounds simple enough, but people including myself tend to over think things sometimes. Figured I would post this incase someone looks here in future with similar problems.

Pics

With some loctited motor mount screws on my nitro i can just grind of the head of the screw till it leaves it with a little nub sticking out of my engine mount. I was also thinking, get the same sized countersunk bit and just countersink the screw head till it is = with the hole.

Well you all pretty much covered most of the ways I have dealt with this, but I will add the semi-obvious: When using a cutoff wheel to make the notch, a smaller diameter, or worn down wheel will have much less tendency to cut too far out into the chassis when cutting the necesarry depth.

Now, I would like to envite you all to use a term that I have coined/created that describes the particular syndrome which typically causes these afflictions........

Crankititis-n./(Crank-a-ti-tis) A condition in the mind and wrist that causes one to tighten bolts or screws to the point that attempted removal typically causes some form of breakage or stripping, and subsequent swear words. Also known by it's original name of Crankitootightinitis.

I too suffer from Crankititis.

Your Welcome.

:lol:
Nice work man:cool:, I concur.
Might wanna throw in "tumuchaloktite"(to-much-a-lock-tight)