Tom Mackenzie

I've run the truck a couple times now and found that tire size actually contributes to this. When you have a larger tire, you have to raise the shock collar to compensate for the higher ride height and this can cause the spring to become loose as a stiff spring requires less compression. A softer spring needs more compression so it would be less likely to happen with a softer spring. I have spoken to another sc6 owner who did come across the same thing also. I ran the truck anyway and after 6 races there has been no issue with the spring falling out but I did pay attention to tire size and got it to a minimum. Starting to think it is normal with box set up. Three tires I tried out were AKA Typo (worst, large diameter) Proline Ions (better, slight smaller diameter) Panther Slicks (best, slightly smaller diameter again). If you look at the tires, AKA's are rounded, Ions are less rounded and the slicks were the flatest of the 3. Running on indoor clay. Hope that helps.

Ruinms

iTrader: (8)

My mm sc6 felt best at 30, I also went to a gold rear spring. I have had 2 outings with the tuck and had a issue with the rear end swinging around because of the turn in. I went from 5 hole to losi 55 pistons. I'm gonna try 2 hole 1.6 next. It's getting better.

J-RO

iTrader: (2)

Is there anyway to use 0 offset wheels with the sc6?? Maybe I you went with the rt6 from arms??

J-RO

iTrader: (2)

How are guys finding the Chassis flex? To stiff or to much flex? If its to stiff I have read and seen where guys that run the RB6 are having success with taking a couple of the chassis screws out of the rear end the ones that are closet to the middle that screw into the rear bulkhead? On the RB6 doing this really helped drive off, would this accomplish the same with the SC6?

MartyMN

Yes, I've takin the 3 middle screws out on both sides of the chassis on both my SC6 and RB6. Our track is low to medium grip, and it works great. Since switching from SC10.2 to the SC6, 2nd time racing it, I've managed to beat my pb by .8 of a second. It certainly works on a slippery surface..

J-RO

iTrader: (2)

So that's 6 screws total? 3 screws out on both sides closest to the middle that are screwed into the rear bulkhead? Are you rear motor or mid??

KalEl63

iTrader: (13)

You mean these screws?
I'm going to try it myself on my RB6 and RT6

J-RO

iTrader: (2)

That's the ones Im thinking about removing yes, seen a review on a rb6 and they did this same thing and said it really worked well.

KalEl63

iTrader: (13)

Cool on the same page.
Yeah it will be interesting and I think I will try removing the screws on the side rails as well. (whatever they are called )

J-RO

iTrader: (2)

Just the rear screws on the side rails?

MartyMN

Page 14 in the RB6 manual, no 7, take out all screws marked "A". The 3 in the middle both sides. I left the rear ones in that you are showing in the picture. I do believe though another guys here at the track have taken them out as well.. I've done this for both the RB6 and SC6, works incredibly well.. I'm running rear at the moment, but have another truck spare, was going to build that mid to try. Prefer the RB6 in mid.

KalEl63

iTrader: (13)

What MartyMN said the 3 screws on each side.

J-RO

iTrader: (2)

Perfect will try it out this weekend and let you know how it works

J-RO

iTrader: (2)

Ok so I just got done taking the screws out, I removed all of the "A" screws, also the two screws that were circled in the picture, I took the two screws out beside them as well but the chassis really flexed quite a bit, was a little nervous so I put them two back in, chassis still has good flex. Should I be worried about removing those two extra screws?

MartyMN

I'd personally only take at the most the 3 screws out per side. Like I said before, one of the other guys have taken more out, but I'm not comfortable with that. And our track Isn't high bite, and it works for me..