137LikesTeam Associated RC10 B5m Mid-Motor & Rear Motor Thread
04-22-2024, 12:09 PM - Wikipost
|
|||
|
|||
|
03-24-2014, 09:06 AM
#7006
Leaving a battery plugged in is the number one cause of over discharge. Even the experts here at AE do it. Just peeked into one office with three cars sitting there plugged in.
It is possible for the battery to puff on the first charge which can be an indication of a defect. Although many users feel the need to cycle their batteries before they use them which if done incorrectly will over-discharge them and result in a problem.
We can take a look at your battery to see if there is some type of defect. But I doubt that is the case. Best case is that we give you a new battery, worst case is that you get a discounted price on a new one (which we offer to anyone FYI).
03-24-2014, 09:10 AM
#7007
my shop has a rear motor in stock or sit it out to a b5 m is out no time frame
03-24-2014, 09:10 AM
#7008
[QUOTE=the incubus;13125459]
While a soldering station is nice, it IS NOT needed. All you need is a good 60w or higher iron with a chisel tip so you can apply heat on a broader area. Pointy tips aren't as efficient for this application. Just be sure to get a solder stand because you can leave the iron on longer without overcooking the tip. The spiral ring absorbs and dissipates heat from the tip.
Then… contrary to what many people say, FLUX IS YOUR FRIEND!!!
The key is to not overdo it with the flux and use sparingly. Flux helps carry heat through the components much quicker and more efficiently and the only thing it corrodes really is the tip of the iron which is why I place flux in between the 2 points I'm soldering. It generates heat much more quickly and the result is a nice shiny joint.
Also use insulated alligator clips to hold your leads so you're not trying to get it to cool too quickly. You want it to cool on its own terms. Otherwise you end up with cold solder joints.
If you do a lot of soldering and can justify spending $80 or better on a higher end iron, go for it. If not, just go with a nice 60w and do as I explained and be done with it.
That's some of the most solid soldering advice I've read on here. I tip my hat to you, sir!
While a soldering station is nice, it IS NOT needed. All you need is a good 60w or higher iron with a chisel tip so you can apply heat on a broader area. Pointy tips aren't as efficient for this application. Just be sure to get a solder stand because you can leave the iron on longer without overcooking the tip. The spiral ring absorbs and dissipates heat from the tip.
Then… contrary to what many people say, FLUX IS YOUR FRIEND!!!
The key is to not overdo it with the flux and use sparingly. Flux helps carry heat through the components much quicker and more efficiently and the only thing it corrodes really is the tip of the iron which is why I place flux in between the 2 points I'm soldering. It generates heat much more quickly and the result is a nice shiny joint.
Also use insulated alligator clips to hold your leads so you're not trying to get it to cool too quickly. You want it to cool on its own terms. Otherwise you end up with cold solder joints.
If you do a lot of soldering and can justify spending $80 or better on a higher end iron, go for it. If not, just go with a nice 60w and do as I explained and be done with it.
03-24-2014, 09:27 AM
#7009
The fact that both sides of the battery puffed is the red flag. Generally when a battery fails it will be a single side. When both puff (on a used battery) it indicates the battery may have been over discharged and charged again, or simply over charged.
Leaving a battery plugged in is the number one cause of over discharge. Even the experts here at AE do it. Just peeked into one office with three cars sitting there plugged in.
It is possible for the battery to puff on the first charge which can be an indication of a defect. Although many users feel the need to cycle their batteries before they use them which if done incorrectly will over-discharge them and result in a problem.
We can take a look at your battery to see if there is some type of defect. But I doubt that is the case. Best case is that we give you a new battery, worst case is that you get a discounted price on a new one (which we offer to anyone FYI).
Leaving a battery plugged in is the number one cause of over discharge. Even the experts here at AE do it. Just peeked into one office with three cars sitting there plugged in.
It is possible for the battery to puff on the first charge which can be an indication of a defect. Although many users feel the need to cycle their batteries before they use them which if done incorrectly will over-discharge them and result in a problem.
We can take a look at your battery to see if there is some type of defect. But I doubt that is the case. Best case is that we give you a new battery, worst case is that you get a discounted price on a new one (which we offer to anyone FYI).
These batteries were not left plugged in. I simply charged to storage mode along with all my other batteries (I keep all together in a safe bin, separate from one another in LiPo bags) in 74° temperature and this is the only pack that did this. he last time I ran the pack was for 3 minutes of a qualifier and had to retire due to my Orion's end bell coming off so I didn't even come close to draining it and therefore no excessive temperature at all. Since my Track Power battery was already fully charged, I used that one for my main and left this one on the charger for storage mode. This way I don't have to do it at home and the Misses doesn't get upset that I'm taking more time with my hobby. LOL
I'm going in for surgery this Friday but I can send in the pack and let you guys inspect it and LMK what you think. I would really not want to have to pay for another pack (even at a discount) considering how much I dulled out for this one already, especially since I followed protocol 100%.
Thanks for taking the time to reply here and feel free to PM me any details for me to have this looked at. I feel someone chiming in soon to let us know this is a thread for the B5rm. LOL
03-24-2014, 09:27 AM
#7010
Tech Master
iTrader: (4)
[QUOTE=the incubus;13125459]
While a soldering station is nice, it IS NOT needed. All you need is a good 60w or higher iron with a chisel tip so you can apply heat on a broader area. Pointy tips aren't as efficient for this application. Just be sure to get a solder stand because you can leave the iron on longer without overcooking the tip. The spiral ring absorbs and dissipates heat from the tip.
Then… contrary to what many people say, FLUX IS YOUR FRIEND!!!
The key is to not overdo it with the flux and use sparingly. Flux helps carry heat through the components much quicker and more efficiently and the only thing it corrodes really is the tip of the iron which is why I place flux in between the 2 points I'm soldering. It generates heat much more quickly and the result is a nice shiny joint.
Also use insulated alligator clips to hold your leads so you're not trying to get it to cool too quickly. You want it to cool on its own terms. Otherwise you end up with cold solder joints.
If you do a lot of soldering and can justify spending $80 or better on a higher end iron, go for it. If not, just go with a nice 60w and do as I explained and be done with it.
Spot on Incubus the only thing I can add is if you use, dont quote me on this, 60/40 rosin core solder it has flux in it. Too much flux causes the tip and solder joint to get dirty.
Which is more a matter of personal preference. The key to good soldering habits IMO is a wet sponge and use it to clean the tip every single time you solder. Get a solder stand that will hold your iron and have a tray below to keep the sponge on to clean the tip of the iron.
This keeps the tip clean and the joint will be shiny every time.
DO NOT USE that copper wire stuff that looks like a dish scrubber to clean the tip after soldering.
In these times soldering is not as crucial as it used to be. But when you do it these suggestions make a difference.
Of course I learned everything I know from the Zen Master and my good friend Rick Howart himself.
Jake
While a soldering station is nice, it IS NOT needed. All you need is a good 60w or higher iron with a chisel tip so you can apply heat on a broader area. Pointy tips aren't as efficient for this application. Just be sure to get a solder stand because you can leave the iron on longer without overcooking the tip. The spiral ring absorbs and dissipates heat from the tip.
Then… contrary to what many people say, FLUX IS YOUR FRIEND!!!
The key is to not overdo it with the flux and use sparingly. Flux helps carry heat through the components much quicker and more efficiently and the only thing it corrodes really is the tip of the iron which is why I place flux in between the 2 points I'm soldering. It generates heat much more quickly and the result is a nice shiny joint.
Also use insulated alligator clips to hold your leads so you're not trying to get it to cool too quickly. You want it to cool on its own terms. Otherwise you end up with cold solder joints.
If you do a lot of soldering and can justify spending $80 or better on a higher end iron, go for it. If not, just go with a nice 60w and do as I explained and be done with it.
Which is more a matter of personal preference. The key to good soldering habits IMO is a wet sponge and use it to clean the tip every single time you solder. Get a solder stand that will hold your iron and have a tray below to keep the sponge on to clean the tip of the iron.
This keeps the tip clean and the joint will be shiny every time.
DO NOT USE that copper wire stuff that looks like a dish scrubber to clean the tip after soldering.
In these times soldering is not as crucial as it used to be. But when you do it these suggestions make a difference.
Of course I learned everything I know from the Zen Master and my good friend Rick Howart himself.
Jake
03-24-2014, 09:45 AM
#7012
[QUOTE=Bubonic-X;13125547]
Spot on Incubus the only thing I can add is if you use, dont quote me on this, 60/40 rosin core solder it has flux in it. Too much flux causes the tip and solder joint to get dirty.
Which is more a matter of personal preference. The key to good soldering habits IMO is a wet sponge and use it to clean the tip every single time you solder. Get a solder stand that will hold your iron and have a tray below to keep the sponge on to clean the tip of the iron.
This keeps the tip clean and the joint will be shiny every time.
DO NOT USE that copper wire stuff that looks like a dish scrubber to clean the tip after soldering.
In these times soldering is not as crucial as it used to be. But when you do it these suggestions make a difference.
Of course I learned everything I know from the Zen Master and my good friend Rick Howart himself.
Jake
Initially (this is going back 25 years) rosin core solder had just about enough flux inside, but it was still lacking a tiny wee bit of flux so if you didn't get it right on the first try, the flux was all used up and you needed to re-apply a bit more.
I find today's rosin core to have even less flux in it so Flux is a must always on larger things like ESC and Motor soldering. Smaller things like capacitors and the like are for the most part ok without additional flux.
Spot on Incubus the only thing I can add is if you use, dont quote me on this, 60/40 rosin core solder it has flux in it. Too much flux causes the tip and solder joint to get dirty.
Which is more a matter of personal preference. The key to good soldering habits IMO is a wet sponge and use it to clean the tip every single time you solder. Get a solder stand that will hold your iron and have a tray below to keep the sponge on to clean the tip of the iron.
This keeps the tip clean and the joint will be shiny every time.
DO NOT USE that copper wire stuff that looks like a dish scrubber to clean the tip after soldering.
In these times soldering is not as crucial as it used to be. But when you do it these suggestions make a difference.
Of course I learned everything I know from the Zen Master and my good friend Rick Howart himself.
Jake
I find today's rosin core to have even less flux in it so Flux is a must always on larger things like ESC and Motor soldering. Smaller things like capacitors and the like are for the most part ok without additional flux.
03-24-2014, 10:13 AM
#7014
You need a Hakko chisel tip (T-18 S3) the supplied tip is for small delicate joints, not the 12g wire we work with. You would have to do the same if you spent the $$ on the real Hakko too.
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...arehouse_.html
03-24-2014, 10:19 AM
#7015
Best value of anything in this hobby I've come across. $15 knockoff of a $100 Hakko. Less money than a cheapo 60w Weller iron. I've used mine for about 2 years without any issues. It is usually on backorder but only takes a week or two to restock and ship out.
You need a Hakko chisel tip (T-18 S3) the supplied tip is for small delicate joints, not the 12g wire we work with. You would have to do the same if you spent the $$ on the real Hakko too.
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...arehouse_.html
You need a Hakko chisel tip (T-18 S3) the supplied tip is for small delicate joints, not the 12g wire we work with. You would have to do the same if you spent the $$ on the real Hakko too.
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...arehouse_.html
03-24-2014, 10:25 AM
#7016
Best value of anything in this hobby I've come across. $15 knockoff of a $100 Hakko. Less money than a cheapo 60w Weller iron. I've used mine for about 2 years without any issues. It is usually on backorder but only takes a week or two to restock and ship out.
You need a Hakko chisel tip (T-18 S3) the supplied tip is for small delicate joints, not the 12g wire we work with. You would have to do the same if you spent the $$ on the real Hakko too.
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...arehouse_.html
You need a Hakko chisel tip (T-18 S3) the supplied tip is for small delicate joints, not the 12g wire we work with. You would have to do the same if you spent the $$ on the real Hakko too.
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...arehouse_.html
If you look at the very bottomthere is a link to the same station in the international warehouse. The drawback about that is shipping is $30
. $45 is still a deal on that station though
03-24-2014, 10:27 AM
#7017
Cherry what you said is exactly what I was implying...if anyone did any type of research on rm to mm they would learn that fast. And tires are the only change you should need to change when running indoors with surfaces med to high bite. Unless you run on all types of track conditions I believe one type of chassis is optimal because both cars drive different and adjusting driving styles is harder then having the correct types of tires on hand to find the right combo for your surface.
03-24-2014, 10:28 AM
#7018
[quote=the incubus;13125625]
which flux do you use? I have only been using the 60/40 rosin core and have debated trying flux for the motor/esc connections.
I agree. I always used the stock rings, then picked up some sanded rings. The sanded rings definitely make the diff feel better for longer.
Initially (this is going back 25 years) rosin core solder had just about enough flux inside, but it was still lacking a tiny wee bit of flux so if you didn't get it right on the first try, the flux was all used up and you needed to re-apply a bit more.
I find today's rosin core to have even less flux in it so Flux is a must always on larger things like ESC and Motor soldering. Smaller things like capacitors and the like are for the most part ok without additional flux.
I find today's rosin core to have even less flux in it so Flux is a must always on larger things like ESC and Motor soldering. Smaller things like capacitors and the like are for the most part ok without additional flux.
I agree. I always used the stock rings, then picked up some sanded rings. The sanded rings definitely make the diff feel better for longer.
03-24-2014, 10:35 AM
#7019
Tech Initiate
iTrader: (3)
