137LikesTeam Associated RC10 B5m Mid-Motor & Rear Motor Thread
04-22-2024, 12:09 PM - Wikipost
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03-07-2014, 02:40 PM
#5491
yeah, but it will get flexed a lot using velcro when you remove and mount the body. I had a FTW buggy body once and it was silly thin imo. It cracked really bad. Mostly from removing and attaching it. It didnt do it over night, but sooner than my proline and jc bodies. The wing though, only last like 2 weekends.
03-07-2014, 02:40 PM
#5492
Side hits & big foot corners marshall's still to cope with.
03-07-2014, 02:44 PM
#5493
03-07-2014, 03:37 PM
#5494
I'm not the most consistent racer, only been driving on tracks for about a year...
I tend to wreck a lot, and break parts, and bodies don't last long.
I'm sure for a more experienced racer, the body will be fine. I am not one of those. Working hard on it, but not there yet.
I tend to wreck a lot, and break parts, and bodies don't last long.
I'm sure for a more experienced racer, the body will be fine. I am not one of those. Working hard on it, but not there yet.
03-07-2014, 03:55 PM
#5495
Couple other tips for you. These are just from my build experience:
1. The gear box screws that fasten the halves together are a very tight and I am in no way complaining about that lol. I took a spare screw and ran it through several times on each hole and then used the kit screw to bolt it all up. Allowed me to tighten them down and get a good feel of when they bottom out. To tight and it will get the gearbox to bind up a smidge
2. Shim the top shaft. Putting it all together I had quite a bit of side play once the halves were together.
3. I used Losi 22 12mm shock bladders in my shock build instead of going with the kit emulsion build. Shocks are suuuppper smooth and do not "aerate" at all. Plus side is you can tune rebound by installing the shock cap plug screw. Pull the shaft out all the way and install the screw= high rebound. Push it in half way and install the screw= less rebound.
4. Put X-rings in the shocks. Built them with and without. I definitely like them with.
5. Polish the shock shafts. I used blue magic and chucked them in a dremel.
6. The FT B4 Ti Turbuckles actually threaded easier into the ball cups than the stock steel ones. Not as fancy as the JC ones or the Lunsford but they get the job done.
7. Shim the rear arms. They will have a bit of front to back play.
8. Install the "optional setscrews" in the front caster block and the rear hubs. only took a few days for them to loosen up a but.
As far as changes for me to the setup this is all I have done and love the way it is working:
1. Removed the shims under the rear inner camber ballstuds
2. Moved the shocks all the way to the inside hole on the tops (f&r)
3. Still running 1.6 front & 1.7 rear but changed the rear oil to 27.5
4. Battery all the way to the rear (shorty)
Anywho here she is all painted up and ready for track duty. WOOT!
1. The gear box screws that fasten the halves together are a very tight and I am in no way complaining about that lol. I took a spare screw and ran it through several times on each hole and then used the kit screw to bolt it all up. Allowed me to tighten them down and get a good feel of when they bottom out. To tight and it will get the gearbox to bind up a smidge
2. Shim the top shaft. Putting it all together I had quite a bit of side play once the halves were together.
3. I used Losi 22 12mm shock bladders in my shock build instead of going with the kit emulsion build. Shocks are suuuppper smooth and do not "aerate" at all. Plus side is you can tune rebound by installing the shock cap plug screw. Pull the shaft out all the way and install the screw= high rebound. Push it in half way and install the screw= less rebound.
4. Put X-rings in the shocks. Built them with and without. I definitely like them with.
5. Polish the shock shafts. I used blue magic and chucked them in a dremel.
6. The FT B4 Ti Turbuckles actually threaded easier into the ball cups than the stock steel ones. Not as fancy as the JC ones or the Lunsford but they get the job done.
7. Shim the rear arms. They will have a bit of front to back play.
8. Install the "optional setscrews" in the front caster block and the rear hubs. only took a few days for them to loosen up a but.
As far as changes for me to the setup this is all I have done and love the way it is working:
1. Removed the shims under the rear inner camber ballstuds
2. Moved the shocks all the way to the inside hole on the tops (f&r)
3. Still running 1.6 front & 1.7 rear but changed the rear oil to 27.5
4. Battery all the way to the rear (shorty)
Anywho here she is all painted up and ready for track duty. WOOT!
03-07-2014, 04:13 PM
#5497
hard to beat this.
03-07-2014, 04:16 PM
#5498
+1. I had no problem with my B4.2 turnbuckles and some black grease.
03-07-2014, 04:21 PM
#5499
I didn't have trouble threading the turnbuckles on, that's easy. Just when it came to adjusting them. Threaded in and out a few times, and they're good now.
03-07-2014, 04:28 PM
#5500
+1. Did a 150 laps or so of a 500 lap race with trucks and novices, practiced multiple times and 2 race nights and the stock body looked no worse for the wear.
03-07-2014, 04:55 PM
#5501
Couple other tips for you. These are just from my build experience:
1. The gear box screws that fasten the halves together are a very tight and I am in no way complaining about that lol. I took a spare screw and ran it through several times on each hole and then used the kit screw to bolt it all up. Allowed me to tighten them down and get a good feel of when they bottom out. To tight and it will get the gearbox to bind up a smidge
2. Shim the top shaft. Putting it all together I had quite a bit of side play once the halves were together.
3. I used Losi 22 12mm shock bladders in my shock build instead of going with the kit emulsion build. Shocks are suuuppper smooth and do not "aerate" at all. Plus side is you can tune rebound by installing the shock cap plug screw. Pull the shaft out all the way and install the screw= high rebound. Push it in half way and install the screw= less rebound.
4. Put X-rings in the shocks. Built them with and without. I definitely like them with.
5. Polish the shock shafts. I used blue magic and chucked them in a dremel.
6. The FT B4 Ti Turbuckles actually threaded easier into the ball cups than the stock steel ones. Not as fancy as the JC ones or the Lunsford but they get the job done.
7. Shim the rear arms. They will have a bit of front to back play.
8. Install the "optional setscrews" in the front caster block and the rear hubs. only took a few days for them to loosen up a but.
As far as changes for me to the setup this is all I have done and love the way it is working:
1. Removed the shims under the rear inner camber ballstuds
2. Moved the shocks all the way to the inside hole on the tops (f&r)
3. Still running 1.6 front & 1.7 rear but changed the rear oil to 27.5
4. Battery all the way to the rear (shorty)
Anywho here she is all painted up and ready for track duty. WOOT!
1. The gear box screws that fasten the halves together are a very tight and I am in no way complaining about that lol. I took a spare screw and ran it through several times on each hole and then used the kit screw to bolt it all up. Allowed me to tighten them down and get a good feel of when they bottom out. To tight and it will get the gearbox to bind up a smidge
2. Shim the top shaft. Putting it all together I had quite a bit of side play once the halves were together.
3. I used Losi 22 12mm shock bladders in my shock build instead of going with the kit emulsion build. Shocks are suuuppper smooth and do not "aerate" at all. Plus side is you can tune rebound by installing the shock cap plug screw. Pull the shaft out all the way and install the screw= high rebound. Push it in half way and install the screw= less rebound.
4. Put X-rings in the shocks. Built them with and without. I definitely like them with.
5. Polish the shock shafts. I used blue magic and chucked them in a dremel.
6. The FT B4 Ti Turbuckles actually threaded easier into the ball cups than the stock steel ones. Not as fancy as the JC ones or the Lunsford but they get the job done.
7. Shim the rear arms. They will have a bit of front to back play.
8. Install the "optional setscrews" in the front caster block and the rear hubs. only took a few days for them to loosen up a but.
As far as changes for me to the setup this is all I have done and love the way it is working:
1. Removed the shims under the rear inner camber ballstuds
2. Moved the shocks all the way to the inside hole on the tops (f&r)
3. Still running 1.6 front & 1.7 rear but changed the rear oil to 27.5
4. Battery all the way to the rear (shorty)
Anywho here she is all painted up and ready for track duty. WOOT!
03-07-2014, 05:36 PM
#5502
I would say get the X-rings, aluminum top shaft, a Ti turnbuckles. You don't need these parts to have a good car but if your going to do them anyways, you might as well get them now and use them during the build rather then going back and taking stuff apart.
03-07-2014, 06:15 PM
#5505
