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Team Associated RC10 B5m Mid-Motor & Rear Motor Thread

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Old 04-22-2024, 12:09 PM   -   Wikipost
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Old 05-03-2015, 08:48 PM
  #20506  
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Dont worry, the arms are supposed to go like that, if you look a couple pages back there was a convo about it.
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Old 05-03-2015, 08:54 PM
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So what am I doing wrong then?
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Old 05-03-2015, 09:02 PM
  #20508  
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Originally Posted by CTRJ
So what am I doing wrong then?
L goes on the right, R goes on the left.

I don't see anything wrong with it.
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Old 05-03-2015, 09:05 PM
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I just looked at a picture of the car on AE's website and the rear camber links are swept forward in their picture while mine goes straight out.
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Old 05-03-2015, 09:11 PM
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Originally Posted by CTRJ
I just looked at a picture of the car on AE's website and the rear camber links are swept forward in their picture while mine goes straight out.
Hey CTRJ it's Randy, your rear hubs are on the wrong side.
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Old 05-03-2015, 09:12 PM
  #20511  
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Originally Posted by CTRJ
I just looked at a picture of the car on AE's website and the rear camber links are swept forward in their picture while mine goes straight out.
The lite car comes with the rear motor rear arms. In order to fit the shocks on the mm cars with the rm arms you must swap them sides along with the hubs. Angles always appear different in pictures.
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Old 05-03-2015, 09:12 PM
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swap the hubs out, L to R
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Old 05-03-2015, 09:18 PM
  #20513  
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Originally Posted by Stealthpilot
Hey CTRJ it's Randy, your rear hubs are on the wrong side.
And the ball stud on other side of hub.
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Old 05-03-2015, 09:27 PM
  #20514  
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Yep, you guys are right. It dawned on me as I was looking at the pictures on AE's site that the hubs were the problem. Got it right and now I have a roller. Thanks everyone.
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Old 05-03-2015, 11:03 PM
  #20515  
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What's the difference between the bi-metal pucks and the normal pucks? Just lighter? If so, by how much
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Old 05-03-2015, 11:20 PM
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The shiny #14190 are meant for use in mod class and the bi-metal #14230 are for 17.5 class.
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Old 05-04-2015, 12:11 AM
  #20517  
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Originally Posted by flintTRDTC
The shiny #14190 are meant for use in mod class and the bi-metal #14230 are for 17.5 class.
Ahhh. Thanks!
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Old 05-04-2015, 12:57 AM
  #20518  
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So I'm doing a new Lite build with the MIP pucks. I accidentally built the diff using the supplied AE kit thrust washers/balls. Is it okay to use this? Or do I need to absolutely use the MIP included washers/balls?
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Old 05-04-2015, 04:07 AM
  #20519  
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This is my project 17.5 racer, ill give the RM car a chance to prove itself before succuming to MM like everyone else, what i did (forgive me if it's been done to death) is to cut the section behind the servo out to move the shorty pack up forward against the LP servo, this puts another 12g of weight over the front wheels and gives me a 34/66% f/r bias. The top sponsored local driver has gotten his B5M mod buggy from a stock 37/63% to 34/66% in an attempt to put more weight on the rear, so im hoping my RM car might drive almost like his MM seeing as the bias is the same. Mine only weighs 1498grams,only mods are slipper eliminator and alu top shaft, geared 66/32 which just gives me correct gear mesh without having to dremel out the motor plate.
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Old 05-04-2015, 06:34 AM
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Use whatever diff parts you want.
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