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Team Associated RC10 B5m Mid-Motor & Rear Motor Thread

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Old 12-09-2014, 06:31 PM
  #16276  
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Sorry for the silly question but I am thinking about buying one of these this week.
Does the car need extra bearings to replace stuff or is the car fully fitted with bearings already
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Old 12-09-2014, 07:30 PM
  #16277  
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Originally Posted by fastatfrog
Sorry for the silly question but I am thinking about buying one of these this week.
Does the car need extra bearings to replace stuff or is the car fully fitted with bearings already
It comes with all the bearings you need.
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Old 12-09-2014, 08:01 PM
  #16278  
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Originally Posted by pink_sleeve
What kind of gearing are you guys running for 17.5 with around 100 foot straight and decent jumps?
Try 69/32 to start. Go up to 33 if you need more top end.
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Old 12-10-2014, 04:22 AM
  #16279  
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Can some one point me in the right direction to find out what settings I would want on an LRP Flow Works for 17.5 boosted. I am currently running it in 17.5 blinky but it is an open class and would like to try a little boost. Also are the gear ratios in the manual accurate for boosted classes? The stock gearing seems to be about right. I have looked on LRP for set ups but could not find anything, I just don't know where to look to find it. Thanks in advance!
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Old 12-10-2014, 05:56 AM
  #16280  
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Can someone help me out. I run on a high bite indoor clay track and I can't get my B5 to stop pushing in the corners. I've tried different shock oils, settings, springs, tires and it still pushes.
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Old 12-10-2014, 06:22 AM
  #16281  
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Originally Posted by Buggy Convert
Can someone help me out. I run on a high bite indoor clay track and I can't get my B5 to stop pushing in the corners. I've tried different shock oils, settings, springs, tires and it still pushes.
did you put 1/2oz weight under the rack?
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Old 12-10-2014, 06:52 AM
  #16282  
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Originally Posted by Buggy Convert
Can someone help me out. I run on a high bite indoor clay track and I can't get my B5 to stop pushing in the corners. I've tried different shock oils, settings, springs, tires and it still pushes.
Hello,

What setup are you running now and what battery & position are you running?

Thanks

Alan
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Old 12-10-2014, 10:06 AM
  #16283  
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Originally Posted by JFuel11
Hello,

What setup are you running now and what battery & position are you running?

Thanks

Alan
I run a shorty pack as forward as possible. I also have the associated 0 degree rear hubs with the rear shocks in the middle hole at the top and the front shocks on the most inner holes in the shock tower.
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Old 12-10-2014, 10:18 AM
  #16284  
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Originally Posted by Buggy Convert
Can someone help me out. I run on a high bite indoor clay track and I can't get my B5 to stop pushing in the corners. I've tried different shock oils, settings, springs, tires and it still pushes.
How long have you been running 2wd buggy? What were you running before that? I ask because 2wd buggies by design have an on power push. Even off power they push. Buggies don't turn without brake and/or drag brake.
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Old 12-10-2014, 10:21 AM
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Originally Posted by Buggy Convert
I run a shorty pack as forward as possible. I also have the associated 0 degree rear hubs with the rear shocks in the middle hole at the top and the front shocks on the most inner holes in the shock tower.
Put weight on the front. Shorten the rear camber link, make the rear camber link taller, lengthen the front camber link, make it lower. Soften the front, stiffen the rear.

It's hard to diagnose a car over the internet. Get your B5 manual out, and make one change at a time. If you don't like the effect, go back, then try something else.

These new Lipos make tuning in practice dead dog easy - you don't have such a limited run time. Bring some tools track side. Run two laps, make a change, run two laps, make a change, run two laps, make a change.
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Old 12-10-2014, 02:54 PM
  #16286  
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Coming back to the rear motor. I may be the only one in Socal and will almost definitely be the only one running mod. My thinking is i don't get to the track enough so i want the easiest car to drive. At one point i had both cars and even did a back to back test. Fastest lap was with the MM but fastest 5 minutes was with the RM. Should have kept the RM. Im also attacking mod a little different Im keeping the blinky drivetrain in there for now(Pucks and aluminum top shaft) since i am just running a 13.5. Im just going to throw a bunch of timing in the esc. I figure torque is what kills those things and i am not increasing torque. Anyway that should also move the weight bias more forward, in theory of course.
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Old 12-11-2014, 05:51 AM
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Has anybody used the X Factory Carbon chassis on the buggy for Stock and Modified and how is it? Is it worth it? I am looking for ways to get better traction front and rear. On some of the tracks I have push and rear slide on accelleration out of the corners. Just looking for solutions.

Thanks Chris
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Old 12-11-2014, 05:54 AM
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Originally Posted by bigcracing
Has anybody used the X Factory Carbon chassis on the buggy for Stock and Modified and how is it? Is it worth it? I am looking for ways to get better traction front and rear. On some of the tracks I have push and rear slide on accelleration out of the corners. Just looking for solutions.

Thanks Chris
There's so many other small things setup wise you can do to eliminate your issues. That carbon chassis is supposed to be super light which is good for 17.5. I would recommend reading the manual and changing your setup to suite the track conditions. It really sounds like a tire issue.
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Old 12-11-2014, 06:26 AM
  #16289  
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Originally Posted by bigcracing
Has anybody used the X Factory Carbon chassis on the buggy for Stock and Modified and how is it? Is it worth it? I am looking for ways to get better traction front and rear. On some of the tracks I have push and rear slide on accelleration out of the corners. Just looking for solutions.

Thanks Chris
Easiest things to check.. and they are free! Radio settings. End points should be maxed when setting up esc, expos/arc at linear. It seems a great number of people have problems operating an r/c car because the radio is so skewed that they truly have little throttle control. Next would be Slipper settings, diff settings. Beyond that, start with Tires/Inserts. Shock spring/positioning... while you're checking that make sure the arms move freely (wheels off). next would be oil. You might be surprised out a blown out or low oil shock can screw things up
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Old 12-11-2014, 06:27 AM
  #16290  
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Originally Posted by DG Designs
Coming back to the rear motor. I may be the only one in Socal and will almost definitely be the only one running mod. My thinking is i don't get to the track enough so i want the easiest car to drive. At one point i had both cars and even did a back to back test. Fastest lap was with the MM but fastest 5 minutes was with the RM. Should have kept the RM. Im also attacking mod a little different Im keeping the blinky drivetrain in there for now(Pucks and aluminum top shaft) since i am just running a 13.5. Im just going to throw a bunch of timing in the esc. I figure torque is what kills those things and i am not increasing torque. Anyway that should also move the weight bias more forward, in theory of course.
My thought is to run rear motor with more weight overall like square pack and no pucks the car should feel more planted and in mod pick your motor to overcome the weight. Not sure if it will work but a long time ago I ran 1/8th electric and the car felt better for my driving style because of the weight. So remember thier is a guy is arizona running a rear motor car for the same reason too.
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