Team Associated RC10 B5m Mid-Motor & Rear Motor Thread
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Sorry for the silly question but I am thinking about buying one of these this week.
Does the car need extra bearings to replace stuff or is the car fully fitted with bearings already
Does the car need extra bearings to replace stuff or is the car fully fitted with bearings already
Tech Champion
iTrader: (73)
Can some one point me in the right direction to find out what settings I would want on an LRP Flow Works for 17.5 boosted. I am currently running it in 17.5 blinky but it is an open class and would like to try a little boost. Also are the gear ratios in the manual accurate for boosted classes? The stock gearing seems to be about right. I have looked on LRP for set ups but could not find anything, I just don't know where to look to find it. Thanks in advance!
Can someone help me out. I run on a high bite indoor clay track and I can't get my B5 to stop pushing in the corners. I've tried different shock oils, settings, springs, tires and it still pushes.
Tech Prophet
iTrader: (84)
Tech Elite
iTrader: (152)
Setup & Battery
What setup are you running now and what battery & position are you running?
Thanks
Alan
I run a shorty pack as forward as possible. I also have the associated 0 degree rear hubs with the rear shocks in the middle hole at the top and the front shocks on the most inner holes in the shock tower.
Super Moderator
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Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: RIP 'Chopper', 4/18/13 miss you bud:(
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How long have you been running 2wd buggy? What were you running before that? I ask because 2wd buggies by design have an on power push. Even off power they push. Buggies don't turn without brake and/or drag brake.
It's hard to diagnose a car over the internet. Get your B5 manual out, and make one change at a time. If you don't like the effect, go back, then try something else.
These new Lipos make tuning in practice dead dog easy - you don't have such a limited run time. Bring some tools track side. Run two laps, make a change, run two laps, make a change, run two laps, make a change.
Coming back to the rear motor. I may be the only one in Socal and will almost definitely be the only one running mod. My thinking is i don't get to the track enough so i want the easiest car to drive. At one point i had both cars and even did a back to back test. Fastest lap was with the MM but fastest 5 minutes was with the RM. Should have kept the RM. Im also attacking mod a little different Im keeping the blinky drivetrain in there for now(Pucks and aluminum top shaft) since i am just running a 13.5. Im just going to throw a bunch of timing in the esc. I figure torque is what kills those things and i am not increasing torque. Anyway that should also move the weight bias more forward, in theory of course.
Tech Addict
iTrader: (32)
Has anybody used the X Factory Carbon chassis on the buggy for Stock and Modified and how is it? Is it worth it? I am looking for ways to get better traction front and rear. On some of the tracks I have push and rear slide on accelleration out of the corners. Just looking for solutions.
Thanks Chris
Thanks Chris
Has anybody used the X Factory Carbon chassis on the buggy for Stock and Modified and how is it? Is it worth it? I am looking for ways to get better traction front and rear. On some of the tracks I have push and rear slide on accelleration out of the corners. Just looking for solutions.
Thanks Chris
Thanks Chris
Has anybody used the X Factory Carbon chassis on the buggy for Stock and Modified and how is it? Is it worth it? I am looking for ways to get better traction front and rear. On some of the tracks I have push and rear slide on accelleration out of the corners. Just looking for solutions.
Thanks Chris
Thanks Chris
Tech Master
iTrader: (4)
Coming back to the rear motor. I may be the only one in Socal and will almost definitely be the only one running mod. My thinking is i don't get to the track enough so i want the easiest car to drive. At one point i had both cars and even did a back to back test. Fastest lap was with the MM but fastest 5 minutes was with the RM. Should have kept the RM. Im also attacking mod a little different Im keeping the blinky drivetrain in there for now(Pucks and aluminum top shaft) since i am just running a 13.5. Im just going to throw a bunch of timing in the esc. I figure torque is what kills those things and i am not increasing torque. Anyway that should also move the weight bias more forward, in theory of course.