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-   -   Team Associated RC10 B5m Mid-Motor & Rear Motor Thread (https://www.rctech.net/forum/electric-off-road/780905-team-associated-rc10-b5m-mid-motor-rear-motor-thread.html)

Jason Baliban 08-28-2014 07:35 PM

http://highsundry.com/webpics/DS3_6129.jpg

Alright, its time to get started. I started a separate build thread here.

http://www.rctech.net/forum/electric...d-journal.html

Wish me luck,

jB

Wildcat1971 08-28-2014 07:58 PM


Originally Posted by Jmuck69 (Post 13498808)
Here it is...

I did cut the cross piece between the servo and ESC, but that was to gather the wires in heatshrink. I did this at first but its easier to coil the wires. :nod: Switch is on top of the receiver and the bind button is still accessible. The wires from the capacitor run under it to the back of the ESC.

I tried to do my cap that way last time. I dont recall what the issue was. I had my switch on top of the receiver also. because i had cap issues, I out the cap on the heat sink and the switch where you have the cap. I will try it like you have it again.


ok, I just looked at my car. I remember my issue. I bought the esc used and the guy shortened the cap wires. I will see about taking the case off the caps and maybe soldering up some new wires from the cap to the esc. I think 16-20awg should be good.

Wildcat1971 08-28-2014 08:07 PM

ok, I have tried every wrench I have. what tip is used in the AE front hexes? I tried the 1.5 and the 2mm plus the sae sized. nothing fits

hcopp 08-28-2014 08:15 PM

pretty positive its a 1.5 - if not its a 2 and I had no trouble with front or back.

Wildcat1971 08-28-2014 08:30 PM


Originally Posted by hcopp (Post 13499215)
pretty positive its a 1.5 - if not its a 2 and I had no trouble with front or back.

well I got these hexes used and it looks like the previous owner may have driller out the hex lol. so once these ceramic bearing fail, I guess i just toss the entire axle/hub/caster assembly. Why do people have to be so fing stupid with these cars. I never strip out anything.

xrayracer1 08-28-2014 08:31 PM


Originally Posted by Jason Baliban (Post 13499135)
http://highsundry.com/webpics/DS3_6129.jpg

Alright, its time to get started. I started a separate build thread here.

http://www.rctech.net/forum/electric...d-journal.html

Wish me luck,

jB

Aaaaah I see you did the same as me and got the Lunsford titanium turnbuckles. Good choice.:D

xrayracer1 08-28-2014 08:33 PM

Well guys, I read the suggestions on what to do with the ball cups and I got my dremel out and I used some Hudy graphite grease, and it has made a total difference.:nod:

hcopp 08-28-2014 08:44 PM


Originally Posted by xrayracer1 (Post 13499246)
Well guys, I read the suggestions on what to do with the ball cups and I got my dremel out and I used some Hudy graphite grease, and it has made a total difference.:nod:

you shouldn't have bulged the cups by over screwing them onto the turnbuckle. :rolleyes:

Bob Barry 08-28-2014 09:10 PM

yeah #learn2ballcupbaddie!!! :eek:

xrayracer1 08-28-2014 09:40 PM


Originally Posted by hcopp (Post 13499272)
you shouldn't have bulged the cups by over screwing them onto the turnbuckle. :rolleyes:

Oh, so you're assuming I did the turnbuckles too tight? If you've been reading the posts on this thread you'll see that there have been quite a lot of people with this problem. :rolleyes:

kdub 08-28-2014 10:14 PM


Originally Posted by Jason Baliban (Post 13485616)
Yeah man! I emailed schelle about creating a custom kit. Seems kind of silly to buy a full bearing kit and then a ceramic kit for the gearbox.

They havent written me back yet, but hopefully they do as i would like to give them my biz:)

jB

We are discussing having a hub replacement set, so you can buy the 8 hub bearings separate from the ceramic gearbox bearings. Would that work for you?

Cridd 08-28-2014 10:46 PM

That would be sweet.

Cridd 08-28-2014 10:54 PM

Converted my B5rm over to mm tonight for mod fun. Sitting on shelf and wanted some thing to do. Rebuilt rm diff tonight with schelle ceramics for mm, just need to finish electronics tomorrow. Electronics take as long as car, Esc needed new wires. My car builds; car goes together pretty quick, ok fine I'll do diff, shocks - I'll deal with oil right now and these little parts, Ugg electronics, motor and slipper, ....cool get to race!!

Nemaris 08-28-2014 11:25 PM


Originally Posted by Wildcat1971 (Post 13498272)
You guys are so mean...lol. I am very sure if I were suspended for a month, I would be the next avatar, lol.




So honest question here. Who is still running the default cradle config? I cut mine a while ago, mostly because i wanted more room for my electronics. But I cut off the battery strap mounts. This has proved to be a pain. I often have a short amount of time between bumps. So I am forced to 30amp charge my pack to be ready. Plus, taping my packs into my cars just bothers me. The amount of effort to take my pack out, when I was rebuilding, my car was unreal. I do NOT suggest using the 3M clear tape full width under the battery. That was over kill by a long shot. I am thinking about getting a new cradle and just cutting the area between the thumb screws, to give me a little more room and still use the battery strap. I do realize I wont be able to get my esc as far back and my car may feel different. Also, who makes the best fitting battery strap to inline the electronics, with the battery strap in place? Without cutting on the strap.

The Exotek strap seems to be the one everyone is using if they want to cut the cradle in between the thumb screws to make room for electronics, or do an inline setup.

Andrew Selvaggi 08-28-2014 11:30 PM


Originally Posted by Jason Baliban (Post 13499135)
http://highsundry.com/webpics/DS3_6129.jpg

Alright, its time to get started. I started a separate build thread here.

http://www.rctech.net/forum/electric...d-journal.html

Wish me luck,

jB

There is so much awesome in that photo i dont know where to begin!
The Bruce Lee mural, the cigars......macbook...............B5m joy-gasm!!!!


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