carcrazy699

iTrader: (49)

Thanks for the clarity on that guys. I am just new to all this new stuff. Been out for a while so I am re-learning it all. I was pretty consistent with my b4.1 and then took a break from all of this and now just in that short time everything is a bit different lol. I am definitely going to run the car stock but I think I am going to cut between the battery posts and servo and run the esc and rx inline and try the battery stock. Then try all in line later.

I will be running a tekin rsx now instead of the lip flow. I also have a D4 17.5 maxzilla 1s coming shortly. What would be a good gearing to start with on that motor? I was thinking 30/69

Chris Reilly

I havn't ran elrctric since the B3. But I have started to follow recently.

For mod would you buy the regular or lite buggy?

JDe

iTrader: (2)

Depending on your track/temp/grip, anything from 30 to 32 with a 69 spur is what I run with a 1500g 17.5.

Fanatic01

Hey guys.

I'm going to be picking up a B5m Factory Lite. I am still considering my options for electronics and everything but I'm wondering if you guys can point me in the right direction.

I heard that there is some issues with some servos not fitting in the b5m correctly. I mainly run Hitec servos. I know that you need more speed than torque with 2wd buggies but I'm unsure of what the recommended specs are for them. From what I've seen somewhere around 0.11 speed and 150oz of torque?

I also would like to know some of the combos everyone runs in theirs. It's tough finding the answers in such a large thread. I will be running it on a fairly loose outdoor track and will probably be considered a mod 2wd since we aren't into all the regulations here. I'm thinking a 10.5T motor would be best but would like some input on how the buggy behaves with different motors. I know lots of people praise Tekin systems but I recently tried hobbywing and like their system in my SC truck.

Anything else to consider?
Thanks.

Perimeruna

Is there a difference with those red X-rings (Part #: 91055) and these white/clear ones (Part #: 91493)?

bds81175

iTrader: (20)

This is just my opinion but 0.11 is too slow for racing. My Mendoza line has always been 0.1 or faster and I prefer to get further under that if I can.

Wildcat1971

iTrader: (84)

The pucks take some traction out of the rear and make it corner better IMO. When I started running mod and took the pucks out, my car car complete crap. No rotation. And it felt like there was more bone bind. Also, the lower rotating mass, seemed to drop motor temps some also.

VegasHB

Lite for sure, it has some good upgrades and lighter is better almost always stock or mod. Easier to add weight than take it out.

QDRHRSE

iTrader: (515)

I'll have to disagree. I have 2 cars that are almost identical other than pucks in one and the fox shocks and no pucks in the other and they feel almost exactly the same. I run the same motor, esc, and servo in both....the set ups are the same, both have SLRC chassis etc etc. The only big difference that I can feel is that the pucks car spools up a hair faster and the throttle is hair lighter. We run outdoors on high grip bluegroove. If there's a discernible difference in cornering maybe its more pronounced on clay.

racer1812

iTrader: (31)

I've never heard anyone claim any difference other than this.

Matt Trimmings

iTrader: (171)

Yes. The red ones are wrong and not designed for use in the B5m/T5m. The clear x-rings #91493 are the correct rings for the AE 12mm V2 shocks.

Chris Reilly

Thanks for correcting that. The red are 13mm.
Looks like my next car will be the lite for the winter months.

For mod are there any must have parts?
Was thinking JConcepts 4 Ball Stud Mount

RC8B3 for the summer.

Thank You guys.

Wildcat1971

iTrader: (84)

the car also rotates better with less weight in the rear...at least on high bite indoor clay. 25g out of the rear is noticeable.

Wildcat1971

iTrader: (84)

that was my observation. I left my setup alone and just put the stock diff and bones in. same tires, same everything. Car pushed like a dump truck. I moved the battery forward a little and played with weight and it is better. I also went from a shorty servo with the pucks to a full servo with the steel diff, which helped. basically, I needed to move some weight forward. I have noticed this a few times when going back and forth. It has been my observation. Did it effect my lap times? No. I just adjusted my driving and car to make it better. again, it was something I noticed over the last year when switching back and forth.

Fanatic01

I ended up picking up my B5M Factory Lite today so now I just need to decide on the electronics. I simply do some backyard and club racing so I'm not to worried about regulations. Here is what I'm thinking:

Motor/Esc - Hobbywing Justock 8.5T possibly 10.5 combo
Servo - Savox 1257TG .07 speed/138oz torque
Lipo - 2s SMC 5800mah Square Pack
Tire - Rear Proline bowties or Jconcepts Goosebumps (Loose outdoor track)
Front Not sure
Pinion - Not sure for gearing with the Hobbywing and stock spur of the B5M I guess it will depend on motor as well.

Does this seem okay? This is my first 2wd buggy and I know it can get a bit cramped inside for the electronics. Is there anything at all I need to consider on top of what I listed? Will be ordering online.