Razathorn

iTrader: (2)

The new JC rear camber brace is cool, but it really bugs me that they say the optional "half hole" holes are for tuning camber gain. Changing the link location laterally at the inside will certainly change camber gain, but it has a far greater effect on roll center across the entire suspension action.

The further out the inside link mounts, the less the car will roll as it rolls—i.e. it changes the progression of the roll to be less linear and more exponentially resistant to roll. The height of the inside link really changes the "starting mechanical advantage" or how much roll the car has at low speed operations, and the lateral direction of the inside mount really changes how much the car "keeps rolling" under high speed operation.

The outside link at the rear hub is really the ideal place to tune camber gain because it barely affects roll center during suspension action by moving it laterally (it certainly affects roll center when moving up and down). The kit hub and FT hubs already allow for an a/b half hole change in camber gain.

The new JC brace is actually really damn cool, since having those half holes in roll center tuning is really a great thing on the b5m since it's so sensitive to that setting, so the part is trick no matter what.

Wayne

Nat Maniac

iTrader: (6)

AGREED.

I snapped mine the other day by clipping a pipe at high speed. So thankful i didn't have an aluminum servo horn!!! Would have been a $100 aud replacement instead of a $2 one.

WJ Racing

First time I ever posted pics so hang on!! I'm usin this setup on my T5M. Instructions say to tighten shaft nut until the top of the nut head is flush w/ the shaft then back off 1/8 turn.

Pic shows nut tightened up all the way with spring completely compressed. Nut still has a way to go before top of the nut head is flush w/ the shaft.

Any advice?

WJ Racing

Well, it looks like I also need help on posting pics(
Got message "Uploading JPG file FAILED".
File size of 1 pic is 2.33 MB
I'll try to "edit" down to 293 KB

HBRob

iTrader: (61)

How to adjust slipper. Set it in the middle (half way between tightened all the way and loose) and do this.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gSmHEnj71mw

WJ Racing

Ok, think I figured out the pic thing. Here goes again.


Pic 1: Spring fully compressed - Nut tightened all the way but still not flush w/ end of shaft

Pic 2: Nut tightened all the way but still not flush w/ end of shaft - Spring fully compressed


Is the top shaft to short?

Tee

Is that a vented v2 slipper plate? I think you have to use the smaller dia vts slipper plate.

Sean Cochran

iTrader: (1)

That is the incorrect slipper plate.
Look at this one, http://www.teamassociated.com/parts/details/91179/
Or this for another view of the part, http://www.teamassociated.com/parts/details/91175/

Tee

Is it true the veh shown in the vid uses a 5.5 mm nut on the slipper?
I got a car just like it and I use a 7mm wrench to adjust ...a 7 mm nut.

Personally, I would start the slipper beyond loose and tighten it up from there. The video starts off with the diff possibly getting barked, because the slipper is started off from a randomly locked position.

celt

iTrader: (5)

Yeah..you've just got the wrong assembly there is all.

Matt Trimmings

iTrader: (171)

The b5/b5m top shaft uses a 4mm threaded nut which adjusts with a 7mm wrench.

Cpt.America

iTrader: (52)

No, you're just using a slipper plate that is too big to fit inside the plastic gear, so it's not even making contact with the slipper pads. That outside slipper plate needs to be sitting ON the yellow slipper pads. Look at your picture, it's sitting on the black plastic.

RC*PHREAK

iTrader: (146)

yep. that plate needs to be INSIDE the cage that holds the assembly together, against the slipper pad. in the pic, the plate is on the OUTSIDE of the cage.

bigcracing

iTrader: (32)

I usually run stock but this local club runs open class and was wondering what gearing would be good for a 10.5 or 8.5 motor

Never ran mod before so any help would be great

Mantis Toboggan

iTrader: (4)

The manual has gearing suggestions. Page 18 on the B5M manual, it might be a different page on the Lite manual.