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Team Associated RC10 B5m Mid-Motor & Rear Motor Thread

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Old 04-22-2015, 06:53 AM
  #20191  
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Thanks you guys!

You think a 2800MAH lipo is enough for a 6-7minute main or should i stay away from it? (only considering because it's really cheap)
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Old 04-22-2015, 07:05 AM
  #20192  
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Originally Posted by 3srcracing
Thanks you guys!

You think a 2800MAH lipo is enough for a 6-7minute main or should i stay away from it? (only considering because it's really cheap)
How long are you currently running and how much are you putting back into the battery after a heat race? Your issue is that you said your local track is changing to carpet and that will probably change your battery draw a bit.
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Old 04-22-2015, 07:25 AM
  #20193  
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I had the opportunity to race outdoor under the lights the other night and the track was heavy. Heavy enough to cake on front ribs. I didn't have time to make much setup changes. Essentially I showed up, glued up tires while missing the first round and switched back to kit springs, and went lower holes outside in front and inside lower holes rear expecting the worse and my car ended up pushing like a dump truck. For the main I switched to inner front holes but that didn't help much if at all. In any case it leaves me with a semi-good feeling about running outdoors with the mid-motor.
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Old 04-22-2015, 08:09 AM
  #20194  
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Tic Toc ,Tic Toc...
Got the UPS message that my 'lite' will be delivered by end of day TODAY!

Having only bought rollers in the past...Its my first kit!

So excited, got the channel locks all ready
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Old 04-22-2015, 08:10 AM
  #20195  
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Originally Posted by JeepnMike
Yeah... yeah. I inflated the prices to support my story I would love to hear how the tires work out for after a few runs for you though. At my local track I think folks are intrigued to run them, but nobody is really running them yet for various reasons. My biggest reason for shying away from them was pretty convincing stories of the tires tearing at the bead. I am not sure if that problem follows JC or Proline or both or if it is just a random problem.
I've been running the 60mm wheels since December and haven't thought twice about going back to 2.2 wheels. I've had 0 tires tear and I run on both medium and large indoor medium high to high bite tracks.

It comes down to your tire prep and gluing ability. You can't glue these tires like a potato and get away with it like you can the 2.2 tires.........
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Old 04-22-2015, 08:29 AM
  #20196  
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Originally Posted by davidfast
It comes down to your tire prep and gluing ability.
I wish this were true. The glue or the ability of the glue'r has nothing to do with the tearing issue, IME. For the sake of this post, lets say its conditions that make tears more likely. If the "conditions" are right the tires will tear no matter if they are factory mounted or mounted by the buyer.

What causes it is still up in the air. At first i thought it was a bad batch from AKA, because it seemed to go away. Then it started happening again, and now i am thinking its the conditions. If the conditions are semi dry and bumpy it seems to kill the tires. In other words poor side bite combined by abrupt stops because of bumps may be causing the shearing.

All that being said, i have tried many 2.2 tires with the same prep and nothing hooks up quite as good as pre worn Typos, for MY track at least.

jB
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Old 04-22-2015, 08:36 AM
  #20197  
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Originally Posted by mel_russ615
I bought the mid conversion kit and while assembling the tranny. I found that the bearing for the top shaft won't fit in the case properly. The right side of the case isn't allowing the bearing to seat all the way in. Has anyone else had this problem? It's the four gear tranny case in case that matters
As Ray mentioned, a running change has been made to include the new V2 gear case and top shaft with the regular B5M kit and the new cases got packaged with the latest round of conversion kits as well. AE is aware of the issue so if you contact them, let them know you need part #91530 to complete your conversion with the existing B5 steel top shaft and 6x12mm bearings. The case included with the conversion is #91552 which takes a 5x10mm bearing on either end as well as the new V2 aluminum top shaft.
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Old 04-22-2015, 10:26 AM
  #20198  
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Has anyone tried the JConcepts Dirt Webs outdoors?
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Old 04-22-2015, 10:55 AM
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Originally Posted by JeepnMike
Yeah... yeah. I inflated the prices to support my story I would love to hear how the tires work out for after a few runs for you though. At my local track I think folks are intrigued to run them, but nobody is really running them yet for various reasons.
Last week my buddy wanted to try my set so I gave him my older set to try. He loved them so much paid me the 40$ to keep them. When our track gets water the tire stick like glue. I started to leave them on my car all day.

but now..

For some reason they are no longer working for me. We think the temp of the day is drying the track faster and my slicks stop working for me.

So it all depends on track conditions. I'm sure I have 20+ packs on my current set and they haven't torn apart. I was thinking next time to buy them in 2.2 and see what changes.
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Old 04-22-2015, 11:42 AM
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Originally Posted by rossb
Has anyone tried the JConcepts Dirt Webs outdoors?
Yes
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Old 04-22-2015, 01:56 PM
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Originally Posted by rossb
Has anyone tried the JConcepts Dirt Webs outdoors?
Originally Posted by davidfast
Yes
I guess you shouldn't have asked it as a yes or no question.

How do the jconcepts dirt webs preform outdoors?
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Old 04-22-2015, 02:00 PM
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Originally Posted by jjahn
I guess you shouldn't have asked it as a yes or no question.

How do the jconcepts dirt webs preform outdoors?
They were pretty good in damp to drying, packed, dusty conditions. I think there are some better options, but it will have to be something you just try out and see if it works for you.
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Old 04-22-2015, 02:09 PM
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Originally Posted by davidfast
It comes down to your tire prep and gluing ability.
I wish this was just the case. The tearing is occurring in the rubber just beyond the point of glue adhesion so its like folding the tire in half and the break point is that middle part. My experience on this so far is with Primes. (haven't run smoothies since January) Perhaps excess glue is creating some sort of edge causing the damage when the rubber is compressed over it during cornering but its definitely not due to too little glue/peeling off the rim. The rubber itself is failing in the thickest part of these tires. I cannot see it being a heat issue when my tires are topping out at 91-92F so far. We are not even running traction compound since a track change 2 weeks ago.

---

And to share my recent experience with the pro-line closed cell foams, they are much better than the first go around in regards to shedding or being useful for writing on a chalkboard but I still would not consider them for re-use unless they have been duct taped in the first set of tires. This would go for aka's as well. (These might be fine for outdoor treaded tires where the tire is shot before the foams) All of these seem to be designed and tested for Mr. Travel racer who dumps tires at the end of a race weekend. As a local Joe I refuse/can't afford to race like that. Much of my business deals with families and there's no way Mom & Dad are buying tires 2-3 times a month for themselves and the kids. Fortunately for us most of those families aren't in the hot shot classes so its not an issue right now.


---

On a separate tire issue, I'm to the point that it's just more economical price and more consistent performance wise for ME to dremel up slicks out of the thicker 2.2 tires. There seems to be far more useful contact patch life out of those.

For the 'economical' guys like myself you might have decent lifespan/performance luck with the taped up aka/proline closed cells but the JConcepts dirt-techs take quite a few race days to break in without modifications to the foam.
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Old 04-22-2015, 02:21 PM
  #20204  
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Originally Posted by KrAcOn
When our track gets water the tire stick like glue. I started to leave them on my car all day.

but now..

For some reason they are no longer working for me. We think the temp of the day is drying the track faster and my slicks stop working for me.

So it all depends on track conditions.
KrAcOn:

In my experience, the best tires for LRH are very low tread but not full out slicks. Slicks are, or can be good when the track rebuild is new... the first few days to week. After that, very worn in treads are the way to go.
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Old 04-22-2015, 02:28 PM
  #20205  
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B5M on way from tower can't wait to try it should out perform my B4.1 worlds car!!!
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